Hopper & 722

87lwrdr

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Original poster
Sep 21, 2017
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midwest
I hope this worded correctly. I have a 1000.2 western arc dish with a 722 receiver (owned by dish) hooked up for 2 tv's, one in HD the SD. I also own 2 other boxes (722 & 222) that I can turn on and off when company or the grandchildren come over without having to return equipment to dish. My question is, can I replace the Dish owned 722 receiver with a Hopper & Joey so I can get HD to both tv's and still be able to use my personal 722 & 222 receivers when needed.
 
My question is, can I replace the Dish owned 722 receiver with a Hopper & Joey so I can get HD to both tv's and still be able to use my personal 722 & 222 receivers when needed.

Yup on the replacement. Nope on the 722/222 on the same account. This is a business policy restriction, and not a technical one. :(
 
So if I would setup a Hopper and Joey my other two boxes could not be used in the same house. Even though they physically could, Dish won't allow it, correct.
 
Correct. And not all possible configurations would physically allow it.
 
Technically, it presents some long term challenges. They want to reduce the code base to reduce costs. Therefore, the ViP series is being slowly retired. And that series is physically older, no doubt representing increased support costs.

If anything, I thing Dish is trying to move everyone to H3 and later boxes and technologies.

Remember, there are different device requirements between Hopper and ViP, along with different coax runs. Therefore, an additional training burden.
 
Correct. And not all possible configurations would physically allow it.
If the node for the Hopper and Joey were hooked up through a DPP44 switch, then the other outputs of that switch could be used to hook up the 722 and 222. As others stated, Dish's policy will not allow the 722 and 222 to be on the same account as the Hopper/Joey system. However, the OP could set up a separate pay-as-you-go account for those purchased receivers, and turn the service on that account on and off as needed. Another option would be to replace the 722 and 222 with two 211 (or two Wally) receivers (or one 211 and one Wally) which Dish will allow to be activated on the same account as a Hopper/Joey system. Of course, the simplest solution would be to just purchase two additional Joeys, and turn them on and off as needed, just like the OP currently does with the 722 and 222.
 
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I agree with that last, especially.

DPP44, yes. Try that with a DPH42.
Actually, for a mixed Hopper 3 / ViP setup, you would need both. The cables from the LNBs go to the inputs on the DPP44, which then get cascaded to the inputs on the DPH42. The hub for the Hopper 3 gets hooked up to the DPH42, while the ViP receivers would be hooked up to the outputs of the DPP44 switch.
 
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I just thought that of the 3 lines coming in the house from the Sat. two would be used for the Hopper setup and the remaining on could still be used for the spare 722 receiver it is presently hooked up too but not in use.
 
I just thought that of the 3 lines coming in the house from the Sat. two would be used for the Hopper setup and the remaining on could still be used for the spare 722 receiver it is presently hooked up too but not in use.
With a Hopper 1 or Hopper 2, and only one additional receiver, yes that could work. If you want both the 722 and 222 hooked up in addition to the Hopper, then a DPP44 switch would be required.
 
If the node for the Hopper and Joey were hooked up through a DPP44 switch, then the other outputs of that switch could be used to hook up the 722 and 222. As others stated, Dish's policy will not allow the 722 and 222 to be on the same account as the Hopper/Joey system. However, the OP could set up a separate pay-as-you-go account for those purchased receivers, and turn the service on that account on and off as needed. Another option would be to replace the 722 and 222 with two 211 (or two Wally) receivers (or one 211 and one Wally) which Dish will allow to be activated on the same account as a Hopper/Joey system. Of course, the simplest solution would be to just purchase two additional Joeys, and turn them on and off as needed, just like the OP currently does with the 722 and 222.
This is what I was going to say.

You may need 2 44 switches though, with a DPP LNBF. On the first, port 1 to the power inserter (because I don't know if you can put that inline to the Hopper). Ports 2 & 3 to the solo node. 2nd 44 switch trunked in with outputs to the VIP's. So yeah, physically, I think it works but the only VIP you can have with a Hopper is a 211 on the same account, used for RV's, cabins, and other separate Dish installations.
 
Actually, for a mixed Hopper 3 / ViP setup, you would need both. The cables from the LNBs go to the inputs on the DPP44, which then get cascaded to the inputs on the DPH42. The hub for the Hopper 3 gets hooked up to the DPH42, while the ViP receivers would be hooked up to the outputs of the DPP44 switch.

Yes. I should have said DPH42 only.
 
This is what I was going to say.

You may need 2 44 switches though, with a DPP LNBF. On the first, port 1 to the power inserter (because I don't know if you can put that inline to the Hopper). Ports 2 & 3 to the solo node. 2nd 44 switch trunked in with outputs to the VIP's. So yeah, physically, I think it works but the only VIP you can have with a Hopper is a 211 on the same account, used for RV's, cabins, and other separate Dish installations.
I think one DPP44 switch would be enough. Port 1 to the power inserter, then the output from the power inserter to the input of the separator for the 222. Port 2 to the input of the separator for the 722. Ports 3 and 4 to the solo node. At least, that is how I would do it. I have never had a power inserter inline with a separator, but other than that, I know this setup would work. I had my Hopper system set up this way with a 211 on port 1 instead of a 222.

The point is moot. If you have a Hopper on your account they will not activate the 722 or 222 no matter how you wire it... ;)
Nobody said the 722 and 222 had to be on the same account. They can still be activated (for now) if you get creative with setting up another account. ;)
 
I think one DPP44 switch would be enough. Port 1 to the power inserter, then the output from the power inserter to the input of the separator for the 222. Port 2 to the input of the separator for the 722. Ports 3 and 4 to the solo node. At least, that is how I would do it. I have never had a power inserter inline with a separator, but other than that, I know this setup would work. I had my Hopper system set up this way with a 211 on port 1 instead of a 222.


Nobody said the 722 and 222 had to be on the same account. They can still be activated (for now) if you get creative with setting up another account. ;)
Here you go again, argument for arguments sake. It's simple, the OP wanted to know if he could add a Hopper and use his own 722 and 222 occasionally when he has company. Common sense tells me that he is not interested in opening a new account for those short term occasions...
 
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Here you go again, argument for arguments sake. It's simple, the OP wanted to know if he could add a Hopper and use his own 722 and 222 occasionally when he has company. Common sense tells me that he is not interested in opening a new account for those short term occasions...
...and I offered other suggestions to account for that:
If the node for the Hopper and Joey were hooked up through a DPP44 switch, then the other outputs of that switch could be used to hook up the 722 and 222. As others stated, Dish's policy will not allow the 722 and 222 to be on the same account as the Hopper/Joey system. However, the OP could set up a separate pay-as-you-go account for those purchased receivers, and turn the service on that account on and off as needed. Another option would be to replace the 722 and 222 with two 211 (or two Wally) receivers (or one 211 and one Wally) which Dish will allow to be activated on the same account as a Hopper/Joey system. Of course, the simplest solution would be to just purchase two additional Joeys, and turn them on and off as needed, just like the OP currently does with the 722 and 222.
 
You're not worth arguing with, spin spin, spin....
I was simply pointing out that there is no technical reason why what the OP wants wouldn't work, as I described the wiring diagram necessary to accomplish that. It is only a Dish policy decision that makes it difficult for the OP to continue to use the existing purchased receivers. So, it is necessary to either work within Dish's system, or work around it, if you are willing to do so.
 

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