U548
- Thread starter cpdretired
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I had the same thing happen with my Wally on U810. I used the voice command "turn off" to put it into standby so it could take a guide download. Audio from the channel I had been on continued to play while the screensaver was on. After the number of minutes that it would normally take before the guide download starts, video from the channel returned along with a Wally logo and a "Please wait. Refresh in progress" message superimposed over the video. Then, it refreshed, returning me to Live TV. This only happened once, though. The next time I put the Wally in standby, it worked properly.
I will give Dish credit where it is due. In the same software update that changed the look of the On Demand interface, they also moved the Search icon to the very first item in the Main Menu, making it easier to find.
If you hold down the Diamond or Double Diamond keys a menu will popup where you can designate that key to open SearchI will give Dish credit where it is due. In the same software update that changed the look of the On Demand interface, they also moved the Search icon to the very first item in the Main Menu, making it easier to find.
Well since U547/8 I haven't been able to get AP to load. Netflix stopped working on U547. Came back on 548. Prime I just get an Internet Connection error. The Internet Status page says "Downloading at 241.116Mbps."
Sent from my SM-T380 using the SatelliteGuys app!
Sent from my SM-T380 using the SatelliteGuys app!
And if you use a 40.0 remote, you can simply press the Search button.
On my 54.x remotes, I designate the diamond button as the Stop button, and the double-diamond button to open PIP. For the next series of remotes, Dish should either have more customizable buttons, or simply have more dedicated buttons for commonly-used features, just like the older remotes.
Isn't that redundant to set one to stop, when you can press select to stop?And if you use a 40.0 remote, you can simply press the Search button.
On my 54.x remotes, I designate the diamond button as the Stop button, and the double-diamond button to open PIP. For the next series of remotes, Dish should either have more customizable buttons, or simply have more dedicated buttons for commonly-used features, just like the older remotes.
Pressing Select brings up a banner, where Stop is not even the default highlighted option. Therefore, it is not even a quick double-tap of Select to Stop. You have to press Select, then press the right arrow, then press Select again. So, that is two extra button presses. The diamond button is only one button press, and it stops playback immediately. Pressing the microphone button and saying "Stop" is only one button press, but there is still a slight delay before the receiver responds. I have mentioned in the past that I still occasionally use an old 1.5 remote, solely because it has a Sys Info button to go directly to the Diagnostics screen, rather than have to press Menu twice or Home three times. If there is a way to save button presses to perform the function faster, then I will use it.
I just pick up my 40.0 remote and press the STOP button. I always keep the 54.0 and 40.0 remotes together because each does something better than the other.
The only thing i use the 54 for is the microphone. I use a 40 or Harmony for everything else.
On the 54 remote after you press Select press the left arrow which wraps around to Stop. Press Select again. So three quick presses. Not ideal but works for me
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Well, I re-purposed the 2 TB drive I had been using for my Hopper 3 EHD, so there is no going back! The ironic thing is I wanted to get everything done before the start of the 2020 Formula 1 season and like everything else sports-related, the Australian race was cancelled, as have most of the season's races that can't be rescheduled. So I've got all this free space on my internal drive now, and nothing to fill it with.
Although I see Showtime is in the clear for awhile, so if I see anything I like, I can record it.
Also, I repurposed the 8 TB drive I bought for the Hopper 3 and it never would recognize. I was able to extract the SATA drive from its case (iFixit Toolkit, lots of essential tools to non-destructively open and repair devices) and locate it into my LaCie Thunderbolt 2 drive enclosure (after making disk images of the old partitions). So now I have 3 TB available for Projects on my iMac and 5 TB for TimeMachine backups. The 4 TB drive that was in the LaCie is now in the Seagate USB 3.0 enclosure and I can use that for another Hopper 3 EHD (but not at the same time as the 6 TB drive!). Although the 4 TB Seagate IronWolf drive is not the quietest drive, so I may just use it for another purpose.
Confused yet?
Although I see Showtime is in the clear for awhile, so if I see anything I like, I can record it.
Also, I repurposed the 8 TB drive I bought for the Hopper 3 and it never would recognize. I was able to extract the SATA drive from its case (iFixit Toolkit, lots of essential tools to non-destructively open and repair devices) and locate it into my LaCie Thunderbolt 2 drive enclosure (after making disk images of the old partitions). So now I have 3 TB available for Projects on my iMac and 5 TB for TimeMachine backups. The 4 TB drive that was in the LaCie is now in the Seagate USB 3.0 enclosure and I can use that for another Hopper 3 EHD (but not at the same time as the 6 TB drive!). Although the 4 TB Seagate IronWolf drive is not the quietest drive, so I may just use it for another purpose.
Confused yet?
So, while you still had the 2TB drive formatted for the Hopper 3, did you try to see if the Hopper 3 would accept both that one and the 4TB drive at the same time? I still think the cap is a total of 7TB, rather than 7TB for each drive. This would explain why some people still report success using multiple drives (presumably with smaller drives, each under the old cap) while those who are trying the larger drives are having problems with the Hopper 3 not recognizing multiple drives.
Same problem here. I started a new thread to address this issue. Never thought about a bad software update
No, before I could get too creative I got a Remote Access call from work, so I got wrapped up in that instead.
So, the request is to have 4 TB and 2 TB connected at the same time to see what happens. It will take a little while before I get to that since I need to move stuff around.
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I think that is what the request is Roland. Hook both the 4 TB and the 2TB up at the same time and see if it all works. That would keep you under the 7 TB limit that supposedly is supported by DISH. It would seem that, maybe, a combination of drives that exceed the 7TB limit doesn’t work.
