If it is just a barrel then you should be able to unscrew the board and pull it out.The board should just have stingers pushed into the barrels.The barrels would be installed in the housing and then the board pushed in.
new 1.2 meter dish and 12 footer
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I don't see any screws holding the board in place so these nuts must be holding the board in place. The board will not slide out but the side missing the barrel can be moved up and down. It sure would be nice to have a service manual for this so that I could disassemble stuff without risking damaging the thing. I'm going to order another motor just in case and to have a spare.
It looks to me like there is a blob of solder on top of the shield to the housing,desolder and yank.
1 more try: Small slotted screwdriver.
Duck Duck Go > "SG9120 Motor Repair". > First hit I got. (Ricks)
Does that tutorial apply to what you have? Possible some revisions used different components.
Poster said nuts on back had to be removed before he could pull HIS board.
He used an incredible tool to remove the nut.
Duck Duck Go > "SG9120 Motor Repair". > First hit I got. (Ricks)
Does that tutorial apply to what you have? Possible some revisions used different components.
Poster said nuts on back had to be removed before he could pull HIS board.
He used an incredible tool to remove the nut.
If you do not manage to remove that barrel this year, the next year I could make a special removal tool and send to you. The removal tool will be made from 7/16" socket wrench bit with 15mm OD (to fit in the pocket on the motor), it is circled in yellow on the picture.
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Looking at the pic I wonder why not get 2 thin chassis nuts and double nut it tight and back the connector out?
Or 1 chassis nut and a F connector? Or do the coup de gras and just vice grip it out and replace it?
You have to have something junker around to scarf a replacement. Amazon could be at your door in a day or 2 also.
Or 1 chassis nut and a F connector? Or do the coup de gras and just vice grip it out and replace it?
You have to have something junker around to scarf a replacement. Amazon could be at your door in a day or 2 also.
Or buy a tool that is meant for the job... 
Have used a similar f-fitting security tool for years.
www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZQLTCX
www.amazon.com/dp/B006C4BSU4
Have used a similar f-fitting security tool for years.www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZQLTCX
www.amazon.com/dp/B006C4BSU4
Unless they can fit inside the well, they won't get the job done. If I manage to get the nut off I'm going to grind/cut that well off for both connectors.Or buy a tool that is meant for the job...
www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZQLTCX
www.amazon.com/dp/B006C4BSU4
That looks similar to what I have. I might be able to remove the nut down in the well with a screwdriver but I wonder how tight I can get that nut back on during reassembly. Thick walled 7/16" nut drivers or sockets won't fit down inside the well.
That is why I have downsized the socket OD to 15mm, so it fits perfectly in the well.
Sure fun beating this darn wrench donkey... 
Guess folks get more of a kick out of arguing why a solution won't work rather than trying the solution that experienced folks have successfully used.
This is what I used to remove and reinstall the f-fittings from HH motors during repairs. It is also used to remove f-fitting from inside security sleeves, which even have less clearance. Try the tool or post a few hundred excuses... no matter to me!
Guess folks get more of a kick out of arguing why a solution won't work rather than trying the solution that experienced folks have successfully used.
This is what I used to remove and reinstall the f-fittings from HH motors during repairs. It is also used to remove f-fitting from inside security sleeves, which even have less clearance. Try the tool or post a few hundred excuses... no matter to me!
I want the right tool for the job. Not modified tools or non-supported techniques. If you don't want to hear "excuses" then there is a solution to that.Sure fun beating this darn wrench donkey...
Guess folks get more of a kick out of arguing why a solution won't work rather than trying the solution that experienced folks have successfully used.
This is what I used to remove and reinstall the f-fittings from HH motors during repairs. It is also used to remove f-fitting from inside security sleeves, which even have less clearance. Try the tool or post a few hundred excuses... no matter to me!
They don't look like the right tool for my needs. If you had images showing that they'll go down into the well of this device or show me info from the vendor that states that's what to use then I would consider spending the money. Post 191 shows the F connector inside of the well. The attached image is the most recent tool that I tried and it will not go into the well so, obviously, it won't remove the nut.
Amazon product ASIN B00099HTJ2
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Heck, I don't even need one at the moment but ordered one today when you posted the Amazon links just so it's here when I do.Sure fun beating this darn wrench donkey...
Guess folks get more of a kick out of arguing why a solution won't work rather than trying the solution that experienced folks have successfully used.
This is what I used to remove and reinstall the f-fittings from HH motors during repairs. It is also used to remove f-fitting from inside security sleeves, which even have less clearance. Try the tool or post a few hundred excuses... no matter to me!
This is exactly why Harley Cam Chest install tools are available for rent. Or specialized OTC tools from the auto parts. Keeps the tool chest sparse of one-off tools you might have to buy another box just to store them in. An engineer is highly educated, The School of Hard Knocks gets the job done. And brilliantly, I can attest.
Hmmm. Happy New Year, and may F Connector tools adorn your mail box.
Hmmm. Happy New Year, and may F Connector tools adorn your mail box.
I do not believe you will need the tool to use it more than one time. In addition, different Diseqc motors can have different ID of the wells. The tool from Amazon is designed to tighten/untighten F-connectors, they can simply break if you try to unscrew the thing inside the body of the motor. Did you have any chance to measure ID of the well and hexagon size of the nut? (on the attached pictures). This is not an ordinary situation you have, and I am pretty sure you need some kind of special tool to do the job.
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I finally got the nut off the connector and pulled the board. Turns out that it's a right angle PCB mount F female connector. The one for the receiver port had broken apart. Now the challenge to find a connector to replace it. But I might go ahead and buy a new motor since I found a spring badly warped, also. There are 2 springs and I have no idea what they are for. No telling what else turns out to be bad.
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