I'd like to connect with those of you who have Winegard Pinnacle's

[Anole]

Sounds better

That'll be only about 1/3rd as much concrete.
And a round hole would use less.
While I still think it's overkill for California, if you're happy, so be it.


I'm with you on the 48" deep. No question.
Might go with a 9" or 10" sorta round hole.
And optionally a 12-14" round pad on top (2" thick).
Or possibly something made up from a paving stone...

 

[KJ6EO]

Master OB1Anole ... your guidance is always appreciated . I was outside early this evening and regretfully, I'm going to have to go a little higher on the pole than originally planned. It looks like 10' is going to be the height that I'll need. Not only will it be up higher but it will be at a perfect height to work on it when I'm standing on my patio roof. I can spin the mount around 180 degrees to bolt on the reflector. I'll also be able to stand on the roof and install the LBNF. What would you recommend I use as far as an LBNF goes (and where to buy it). I'll use it for aiming and toss it later on when I install the dual feed horn and LNB's. Is there an inexpensive LBNF that is compatible with my F/D .278?

 

[mmewrench]

That depends on whether you want to receive C and Ku or not. I would peak the dish for ku and you will be spot on for C
band S2. I used one of these when I set up my dish:



http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMS-BSC621-...ellite_LNB_Downconverters&hash=item5ae772ab0d

Afterward I installed a corotor with good lnbs (which you already have), Now I get 80% signal quality on some C band transponders that others cant even see, and the ku reception puts my 90cm ku dish to shame.

Also, when you reassemble your dish do it right there on the garage floor where you took it apart. That way you have a better chance of it not being warped (and don't forget the string test to be sure).

 

[madmadworld]

I can spin the mount around 180 degrees to bolt on the reflector. I'll also be able to stand on the roof and install the LBNF. What would you recommend I use as far as an LBNF goes (and where to buy it). I'll use it for aiming and toss it later on when I install the dual feed horn and LNB's. Is there an inexpensive LBNF that is compatible with my F/D .278?

so you will be able to adjust the lnbf while pointed at the arc ?

little choice in lnbf's best cband imo
www.ebay.com/itm/281042456622
fast shipper

 

[Magic Static]

Everyone has their favorite method. Mine would be, if I was in your shoes, to use the Corotor Feed that came with the dish. I would get a polarity controllor for it. That would also give you access to use any old polar rotor feed. The other options is to buy a cheap chinese made LNBF that is prone to die at the drop of a hat, or nearby lightning storm. If you go that route, buy two, so you have a spare. Or you could go with an orthomode feedhorn with commercial grade LNBs and use a multi-switch for polarity control.

 

[madmadworld]

Everyone has their favorite method. Mine would be, if I was in your shoes, to use the Corotor Feed that came with the dish. I would get a polarity controllor for it. That would also give you access to use any old polar rotor feed. The other options is to buy a cheap chinese made LNBF that is prone to die at the drop of a hat, or nearby lightning storm. If you go that route, buy two, so you have a spare. Or you could go with an orthomode feedhorn with commercial grade LNBs and use a multi-switch for polarity control.

agree

C-Band lnbf's are crap imo
buy Chaparral Dual C-Band Feed and a couple norsat lnb's
can't see buying $100+ meter for a few uses i don't have one look at all the dishes i have just use a receiver. if you are a installer and use it daily ok or if you have lots of $$ buy one


you can use what you have it is better than a lnbf imo
if it sill works bet it does.
you will need a pansat 3500(old not S2 ready but $30 used) or a pansat 9500 for the servo.
good luck

 

[KJ6EO]

Detailed pictures of what I currently have!

That depends on whether you want to receive C and Ku or not. I would peak the dish for ku and you will be spot on for C band S2. I used one of these when I set up my dish:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMS-BSC621-...ellite_LNB_Downconverters&hash=item5ae772ab0d

Afterward I installed a corotor with good lnbs (which you already have), Now I get 80% signal quality on some C band transponders that others cant even see, and the ku reception puts my 90cm ku dish to shame.

Also, when you reassemble your dish do it right there on the garage floor where you took it apart. That way you have a better chance of it not being warped (and don't forget the string test to be sure).

I don't know if you went back and saw the pictures of what I currently have (Feedhorn & LNB's). I have reposted them here. What I currently have is a dual band Chaparral Feed Horn with a Ku LNB, and a C-Band LNB (see pictures) (servo installed). My MicroHD doesn't have polarotator control, so please tell me where I could buy a control for it. I'll also need a new 36v 18" actuator, vbox positioner, and a switch. I don't mind trying what I got as long as the polarotator isn't expensive. Would you have to do two blind scans? One with the polarotator V, then with it H? Then I guess I'd have to be fooling around with it all the time when I'm going from channel to channel? Any suggestions you might have would be appreciated!

 

[Magic Static]

I don't know if you went back and saw the pictures of what I currently have (Feedhorn & LNB's). I have reposted them here. What I currently have is a dual band Chaparral Feed Horn with a Ku LNB, and a C-Band LNB (see pictures) (servo installed). My MicroHD doesn't have polarotator control, so please tell me where I could buy a control for it. I'll also need a new 36v 18" actuator, vbox positioner, and a switch. I don't mind trying what I got as long as the polarotator isn't expensive. Would you have to do two blind scans? One with the polarotator V, then with it H? Then I guess I'd have to be fooling around with it all the time when I'm going from channel to channel? Any suggestions you might have would be appreciated!

Let me refer you to post #16 in this thread where I posted a link for the polarity controllor

 

[KJ6EO]

Panel Cleaning!

Well, I cleaned my first panel this morning. First with soap and water, then with CLR. I was very pleased with how it turned out (see picture). The panel looks great, if all the others turn out to be this good I see no reason to paint the reflector. Besides the factory paint is powder coat, I can't improve on that any. The only headache was getting the crow s**t out of the mesh. Had to poke it out hole by hole.

 

[mmewrench]

I don't know if you went back and saw the pictures of what I currently have (Feedhorn & LNB's). I have reposted them here.

I did see what you have, but you stated that you wanted a cheap lnbf to play with. In my opinion the calamp lnbs will do just fine for now, you can always upgrade later to PLL (not cheap). No matter which way you go, I would still peak the dish using the ku band. Most Cband dvb signals are pretty forgiving your dish can be a degree off in some cases and still give you good quality. The ku signals are not nearly as forgiving, and will help you to get the accuracy you need for dvb s2.

 

[KJ6EO]

I don't know if you went back and saw the pictures of what I currently have (Feedhorn & LNB's). I have reposted them here.

I did see what you have, but you stated that you wanted a cheap lnbf to play with. In my opinion the calamp lnbs will do just fine for now, you can always upgrade later to PLL (not cheap). No matter which way you go, I would still peak the dish using the ku band. Most Cband dvb signals are pretty forgiving your dish can be a degree off in some cases and still give you good quality. The ku signals are not nearly as forgiving, and will help you to get the accuracy you need for dvb s2.

Yes, I had originally decided to use an inexpensive LNBF. However, based upon others suggestions to aim the dish on Ku Band, I decided to use the original dual band Feedhorn and LNB's. I ordered a polarity controller from Rick's Satellite. I still need a switch and a 36v 18" actuator. I'm busy washing panels right now and locating a place to install the pole. If anyone would like to suggest a good actuator and where to buy it, that would be appreciated. It's been so hot, I have to confine any work I do to the early morning/late evening hours.

 

[waylew]

If you're gonna use a V or G box or a later old IRD or 4DTV, the actuator output is going to be 24 volts.36 volt is no longer allowed per electrical code,don't ask me why.

 

[KJ6EO]

If you're gonna use a V or G box or a later old IRD or 4DTV, the actuator output is going to be 24 volts.36 volt is no longer allowed per electrical code,don't ask me why.

Thanks for that "critical" piece of information. Yeah, I'm gonna use a V box. I have the actuator that came with the dish but I don't know if it works or not. I think it's a good idea to just go ahead and replace it. Going over to a metal supply company tomorrow to see how much my pipe is going to cost me!

 

[FaT Air]

You can see if the actuator works with any 12 to 36 volt supply that can supply a few amps. (Most movers are fused at 3 or 4 amps) Portable drill batteries are 'first choice' here 'cause always have one charged up.
Just make sure to connect to the motor leads, and not the sensors, as it could weld the sensor contacts.

 

[madmadworld]

If anyone would like to suggest a good actuator and where to buy it,

the actuator that came with it is a good one.($200 range these days) does it move freely ? on the dish end

if it does should work.
good luck

 

[waylew]

A 12v car battery/charger or a jump start box is more than good enough to see if it works,it'll just move slow.Even if it is a 36v a 24v supply will work it,again it would just be a little slow which could work in your favor for nailing down Ku signals.
What did the original owner have for a receiver,does he still have it?If you could get that you have a mover and polarity control.

 

[KJ6EO]

OUCH !!!!

Well .... I found out today that galvinized steel pipe is EXPENSIVE. I was thinking I'd pay around $100.00 for a 3 1/2 schedule 40 x 21'. However, It's gonna cost me double that $200.00 OUCH. The good thing is that the metal supply is local (6 miles away), there's no cut charge (I need 15'), and free delivery. They have a 3" in stock for $125, but then there'd be allot of slop in the mount. Guess I'm just gonna have to grit my teeth and pay it. Time now to start digging the hole and buy 7 60# bags of quickcrete.

 

[KJ6EO]

A 12v car battery/charger or a jump start box is more than good enough to see if it works,it'll just move slow.Even if it is a 36v a 24v supply will work it,again it would just be a little slow which could work in your favor for nailing down Ku signals.
What did the original owner have for a receiver,does he still have it?If you could get that you have a mover and polarity control.

Good Idea! I'm gonna to send him a text to see if the original owner left anything at the end of the cables. Certainly would be good to see a polarity control, v-box, and a switch sitting there

 

[madmadworld]

Well .... I found out today that galvinized steel pipe.

we don't use galvanized steel pipe. it's a black drain pipe should be a little cheaper not much.
galvanized steel pipe could be a bit soft ? never used it.
good luck

 

[KJ6EO]

we don't use galvanized steel pipe. it's a black drain pipe should be a little cheaper not much.
galvanized steel pipe could be a bit soft ? never used it.
good luck

Thank you for that "crucial" piece of information. The black pipe is significantly less expensive. about $70.00 less. If I remember right, they quoted me a price of about $132 for a 3 1/2" schedule 40 x 21'. I'll let you know what the final price is. Going to buy it now! Thank You!