Roof Repair - Reinstall Dish

With the new info from HipKat that DISH is moving to the Western Arc satellites, Should I request my new dish be pointed that way to eliminate a return call later or just leave it up to the installer ?
When I recently had my Dish moved from my roof to a pole mount I had asked the tech if he could put me on WA. I asked him if he had heard about the EA change and he had not but since I am in the Chicagoland area and I can be on EA or WA he was able to put me on the WA.
 
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How long is the pole for a pole mount? Does the technician use concrete? How deep is the cable buried?
If done correctly it should be an 8ft pole with 3ft in the ground. However depending on terrain sometimes it's only possibly to get 18-24" in the ground. Then an anti spin device on the base of pole (I used to put 3 lag bolts in it). Then fill hole with concrete. Some installers may have expanding foam. But for the foam you are supposed to use am auger and the hole only 3-4" wide. Cable needs to be atleast 2" under. If you take your shovel and push into ground then pull down on handle just enough to lift the ground up, but not break through on the other side and repeat with some overlap, you can create a little trench you can slide the cable in. When your done you just stomp the ground back down and can barely tell you buried anything.
 
If done correctly it should be an 8ft pole with 3ft in the ground. However depending on terrain sometimes it's only possibly to get 18-24" in the ground. Then an anti spin device on the base of pole (I used to put 3 lag bolts in it). Then fill hole with concrete. Some installers may have expanding foam. But for the foam you are supposed to use am auger and the hole only 3-4" wide. Cable needs to be atleast 2" under. If you take your shovel and push into ground then pull down on handle just enough to lift the ground up, but not break through on the other side and repeat with some overlap, you can create a little trench you can slide the cable in. When your done you just stomp the ground back down and can barely tell you buried anything.
Thanks tjboston5676
 
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If done correctly it should be an 8ft pole with 3ft in the ground. However depending on terrain sometimes it's only possibly to get 18-24" in the ground. Then an anti spin device on the base of pole (I used to put 3 lag bolts in it). Then fill hole with concrete. Some installers may have expanding foam. But for the foam you are supposed to use am auger and the hole only 3-4" wide. Cable needs to be atleast 2" under. If you take your shovel and push into ground then pull down on handle just enough to lift the ground up, but not break through on the other side and repeat with some overlap, you can create a little trench you can slide the cable in. When your done you just stomp the ground back down and can barely tell you buried anything.
Like this
IMG_20140612_182518.jpg
 
Roof now replaced. Installer is scheduled for Monday afternoon. Guess I'll see if he puts it back on roof or decides on something else. Right now, using streaming from Dish, which is pretty neat except for Hopper reboots around 3 times a day for no apparent reason. Hope it lasts until Monday.
 
Well, unfortunately, it didn't last. Everything was working fine last night. Turned it on this morning and no guide. Reset H3, same results. Unplugged H3 for at least a minute, let it run through its self-test, etc., same results. Was able to get to settings to force a Guide Download and it's been sitting there about 15 minutes and nothing. Internet connection is fine.
Any suggestions?
 
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Cabling has been made as direct-burial since well back in the C-band day. Either 4/5-leg "ribbon" cable with conductors to run feed rotor & actuator or 1-2 conductor coax-only. In the earlier day conduit would often be used, but that itself can be problematic if water allowed to get inside as it will keep the coax soaking in water and actually be worse than not having conduited at all. There is generally not "gel" in direct-bury sat cable, rather simply a water-impervious jacketing. Anything you'd get from a sat supply would be direct-bury rated. In DBS I just used the same stuff out in the ground as in the house to run extra rooms, etc.

For a pole mount I'd take the standard 6' pipe length, beat one end flat for 4-5" (both to easily pierce ground and to prevent rotation) and then direct drive into ground with a post driver, no cement. Farm experience. In the Midwest the ground is usually amenable both to driving the post (no rocks) as well as "sticky" enough to hold onto it. Try to pull a steel fence post out of the ground even after newly driven and you can't do it. Try it after a year or two and you need heavy machinery. I always thought someone should offer a dimensional direct-drive post like used for fencing but adapted for sat.

Anyhow, few of them gave any trouble, and if it did, I would make it right for customer.

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