Well, I was trying NOT to scare him! LOL. Though he seems to have the fever now, so it's only a matter of time...
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Well, I was trying NOT to scare him! LOL. Though he seems to have the fever now, so it's only a matter of time...
This one also has raincover and 8 ports on one side: HAMA spu81-00: Amazon product ASIN B003HAG2X4It seems to be the same as the much more expensive Axing spu81-00.
Don't know if they ship to the USA.
However it switches on diseqc 1.1+1.0 (input1+A/B/C/D and input2+A/B/C/D), so they are a problem when you want to cascade switches.
And once they receive a 1.2 command, they only respond to 1.2 commands. (No dip switches, but "automatic diseqc command level detection".)
greetz,
A33
Don't know if they ship to the USA.
However it switches on diseqc 1.1+1.0 (input1+A/B/C/D and input2+A/B/C/D), so they are a problem when you want to cascade switches.
And once they receive a 1.2 command, they only respond to 1.2 commands. (No dip switches, but "automatic diseqc command level detection".)
greetz,
A33
honestly that photo is from another forum and he's cleaned it up since. he had a bunch of fixed dishes ( a dozen i think) so that's why.
Stupid question, is insertion loss in these switches equivalent to "signal degradation "? In other words, a marginal signal might not lock when going through the switch.
Thanks very much.
Thanks very much.
Good question. I am wondering that as well. For instance, insertion loss on an OTA splitter equates to a "signal strength" loss but not necessarily a "signal quality" loss, at least in my experience.
Yes, that's true. If you already have a borderline signal, and it goes through a switch or anything else that induces loss, it could be enough to keep the signal from staying locked.
Thanks for the response guys. I've never used a DiSeqc switch before. I have never seen a problem with a splitter, but have used mechanical A/B switches that have caused signal degradation.
I use both 90cm and 1.2 meter ku dishes with hh120 DiSeqc motors. Can you run those through a switch?
Thanks
I use both 90cm and 1.2 meter ku dishes with hh120 DiSeqc motors. Can you run those through a switch?
Thanks
But the switch should really be located on the LNB side of the motorized dish. You should NOT normally run the motor power and signal through a switch. If you have no choice, make sure your switch can pass enough current.
Trying to wrap my brain around this Mike... I currently have a 4x1 switch for each of my 4 dishes. Just bought a Stab HH-90 from raydio. How do I continue to use the 3 other dishes and run the motor?
I don't know what your wiring consists of. Why do you need a 4x1 switch for EACH dish? I would think 4 dishes, 1 switch, each dish on one of the 4 ports?
You run the main coax right directly to the MOTOR coax input. The coax connector output on the motor that goes to the lnb, you instead hook it to the receiver port on the Diseqc switch. THEN the rest of the ports on the switch go to the lnb's on the dishes.
You run the main coax right directly to the MOTOR coax input. The coax connector output on the motor that goes to the lnb, you instead hook it to the receiver port on the Diseqc switch. THEN the rest of the ports on the switch go to the lnb's on the dishes.
Sorry, I was unclear. I don't have 4 4x1's, I have ONE 4x1 with each input connected to the LNB of a different dish, if that makes more sense.
See my second paragraph above. Just change where your diseqc switch is hanging from. Disconnect the receiver coax from the switches receiver IN port, and connect that coax to the motor IN. Then the switch is moved to the motors coax port for the lnb using a short coax jumper to the switches receiver IN port. All the rest of the dishes stay the same.
So, the switch is on the backside of the motor, instead of in front of it.
So, the switch is on the backside of the motor, instead of in front of it.
So both dishes have a hh120 motor?
Then the connection order can indeed only be Receiver - switch - motors - LNBs (as written above).
With a little risk of the total current being too high, but I think all modern switches should be able to handle that. And the HH120 is not asking too much current, as it is made to turn slooooowly, and has a 'helping' mechanism for returning from the lower satellites, IIRC.
I can think of two alternatives, if you need that.
1. If you are running the motors on diseqc 1.2 GotoNn commands, you could run the one motor on specific Nn numbers, and the other on other numbers. E.g. odd and even. Assuming you can 'empty' the un-used Nn-numbers in your motor.
Then connection order could be: Receiver - Motor1 - Motor2 - Switch -LNBs.
Never tested that myself, though; I've seen it mentioned on a forum.
2. If you also have LNBs that take a lot of power, you could split to an LNB path and a motor path, and use separate switches for both paths (thus reducing the current per switch).
Connection order would then be: Receiver - Splitter (or diplexer with power pass) - 2 switches.
From switches: 1 to LNBs, 1 to motors.
I myself run my motor through a splitter. I have Receiver - Splitter; from there 1 path to 8/1 switch and multifeed dish, and 1 path to motor. And of course 1 extra cable from switch to motor-LNB.
greetz,
A33
I'm not very familiar with DiSEqC switches. Widely used DiSEqC switches aren't water resistant or waterproof? Being familar with commercial coax splitters myself, aren't there more resilient-water-resistant DiSEqC switches made, and that have waterproof-rubber washes at all wire connections--or install--like used on commercial coax splitters?
Correct. I've seen Pansat switches rust easily and I had an Amiko switch fail within several weeks after being rained on once or twice.
Would it be worthwhile to waterproof-coat the whole device, then get coax connector rubber-washers? Or, are the switches even too delicate for hail?
A weather-covered Pansat 4x1 switch is only about $5, so I don't think it's worth the extra effort to weatherproof a switch. I spent a little extra to get my weather covered 8x1.
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