I need info on new hopper plus

Scott Greczkowski not sure if this has been asked yet. Will everything function OK if both Hopper 3 HDMI cable and Hopper Plus HDMI cable attached to TV by two different TV HDMI inputs? And without having to disconnect anything or rebooting?
 
How many of these remotes will the Hopper + replace? LOL I think that I have too many remotes.
 

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I think I created some confusion with the way my post was written. I did not mean to imply the features mentioned were lost from a Wally. I was referring to what you lose compared to just a straight up Hopper 3 without the Hopper +. The PIP functionality is disabled with the Hopper + along with Alexa integration which the Wally does have. There may be other features, but I am only going by my research on the Hopper 3 prior to signing up and not actual experience with the Hopper 3 without the Hopper +. Sorry for the confusion.
The button for PIP is still there, but if you click it you get a message stating the feature is not active.
I was expecting the PIP feature and was surprised by this because I did not see anything stating it had been disabled with the Hopper + integration.
Thanks for clarifying. I get that same message any time I click the PIP button on the remote for my Wally. Maybe when Dish figures out how to add PIP to the Hopper+, they will also finally get around to activating PIP on Wally. :)

The Alexa setup button is non-existent.

I also wanted the Alexa integration. :-(
I would miss the Alexa integration. I use Alexa to control my Hopper3 when I am on my treadmill. That way I don’t need to be messing with a remote while watching TV while working out. I can tell it to skip ahead avoiding commercials just telling Alexa what to do. This works well since I have Alexa throughout my home. I realize that Google also would work but I only have Google in one room.
I also loved the convenience of the Alexa integration when I first got my Wally. It is especially convenient since you can tell Alexa exactly how far forward or backward to skip, without needing multiple button presses like you would need with a remote control.

I wonder if there is an Alexa app in the Google Play store that could be added to the Hopper+, to restore this functionality.
 
Scott Greczkowski not sure if this has been asked yet. Will everything function OK if both Hopper 3 HDMI cable and Hopper Plus HDMI cable attached to TV by two different TV HDMI inputs? And without having to disconnect anything or rebooting?
I think this was answered here:
2 - WHen you plug the HDMI into the Hopper while the plus us connected, you get a page telling you that the HDMI is disable and to connect to the Plus
If the Hopper detects that both HDMI's are connected, it will tell you to use the Hopper+ HDMI connection. That is why I suggested the HDMI switch, and having both (Hopper 3 and Hopper+) connected to the same input on the TV. My guess is that the switch would disrupt the Hopper 3 HDMI connection to the TV (while using the Hopper+) so this message would be disabled. Then, flipping the switch the other way would disrupt the Hopper+ HDMI connection to the TV, allowing the Hopper 3 to only detect the Hopper 3 HDMI connection. However, nobody has replied whether my proposed solution actually works. (Note that whenever the HDMI switch is flipped, the Hopper+ USB connection to the Hopper 3 would also need to be established / disconnected, depending on which way you are flipping the HDMI switch.)
 
I think this was answered here:

If the Hopper detects that both HDMI's are connected, it will tell you to use the Hopper+ HDMI connection. That is why I suggested the HDMI switch, and having both (Hopper 3 and Hopper+) connected to the same input on the TV. My guess is that the switch would disrupt the Hopper 3 HDMI connection to the TV (while using the Hopper+) so this message would be disabled. Then, flipping the switch the other way would disrupt the Hopper+ HDMI connection to the TV, allowing the Hopper 3 to only detect the Hopper 3 HDMI connection. However, nobody has replied whether my proposed solution actually works. (Note that whenever the HDMI switch is flipped, the Hopper+ USB connection to the Hopper 3 would also need to be established / disconnected, depending on which way you are flipping the HDMI switch.)
I have a 2X4 HDMI switch in my system now. Might have to get a 4x4 switch. Will wait and see.
 
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I agree. The tech thought the PIP/multi view feature would be added back In the future. The button for PIP is still there, but if you click it you get a message stating the feature is not active. The Alexa setup button is non-existent. I was expecting the PIP feature and was surprised by this because I did not see anything stating it had been disabled with the Hopper + integration. I also wanted the Alexa integration. :-(
Have you tried downloading an Alexa App from the store?
 
Multi view and PIP are some of the best features of the Hopper 3. Why would they disable it with the Hopper +? Does dish realize how much back lash they will get even from new customers. It doesn't state on dish.com that you will lose those 2 features when you place a new order. Thanks
My total wild assed guess is it might be a bandwidth issue with transferring (in the example of 6 channels of multiview) or a HD PIP picture so it could switch between any of those, over USB 2.

Now if the Hopper + 'required' the use of the USB 3 port and actually used USB 3 speeds that might not be an issue as the codecs for decoding those signals are built into the Hopper +. But then the it would be the Hopper + that had to implement the full complement of MultiView and PIP as it's getting all the feeds and it is entirely possible that when the Hopper is doing PIP and Multiview it's not (or they don't recompress it (as I've never heard the the Hopper can do compression). The Hopper can decompress but not compress.

So my guess is that it's either that the Hopper can't do compression of what's being shown or that they did not want (yet) to implement MultiView and PIP in the Hopper + software as the + is just basically a big Roku and is just a front end. So I think the former is the better bet, the Hopper can't compress all the different things it's displaying into a single stream to the Hopper +.

Add to that, if the Hopper + doesn't communicate back to the Hopper which show you want as the main picture the Hopper if it was compressing couldn't change it display.

I typed this pretty fast as my Golden wanted some lap time ;) so I hope it's understandable.
 
Thanks HipKat. So have you tried disconnecting the H+ and connecting the HDMI cable back into the Hopper? If so, does Hopper require a reboot or do you have to download a different software?
What I've heard is that it takes 20 minutes fort the Hopper to go back to just being a Hopper and yeah, it needs a reboot
 
...in the Hopper + software as the + is just basically a big Roku...
...as we all saw in this picture:

Sorry, I couldn't resist.
 
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Thanks HipKat. So have you tried disconnecting the H+ and connecting the HDMI cable back into the Hopper? If so, does Hopper require a reboot or do you have to download a different software?
I don't think it requires a software download each time you switch back-and-forth. I was looking for the post where Scott explained it, and I think I found it:
The android boxes get a base DISH software, that starts with a P, however there is other software that is downloaded via Android, so there are many times your android devices will get software updates however the DISH software version may not change.

I will show this off more when I can. :)
So, with the base DISH software, normal Hopper operation is supported. Then, when an Android device (Hopper+ and/or new Joey 4) is connected, the Hopper uses that Android software. Both software versions are stored on the Hopper, so there is no need for a new download when switching. At least, that is my understanding. I am sure Scott will clarify more about this, as soon as that information can be released.
 
Scott Greczkowski not sure if this has been asked yet. Will everything function OK if both Hopper 3 HDMI cable and Hopper Plus HDMI cable attached to TV by two different TV HDMI inputs? And without having to disconnect anything or rebooting?
The HDMI from the Hopper 3 goes into the Hopper Plus. The HDMI from the Hopper plus goes into the TV where the Hopper 3 was plugged in.

Everything goes through one HDMI input. No more needed to change between inputs. :)
 
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What I've heard is that it takes 20 minutes fort the Hopper to go back to just being a Hopper and yeah, it needs a reboot
This is correct.

And it will reboot itself a few times going back to Hopper 3 mode. Again the Joey 4's will continue to work fine without the Hopper Plus hooked up. :)
 

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