Hopper + VIP211 w/DPP44 and 2 SAT cables?

satuser99

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Original poster
Apr 23, 2016
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St. Cloud, Mn
I have a Hoppper (no joeys) with 2 cables running from the LNB into the house. I want to add a VIP211 and wondering if it's possible without adding a 3rd wire to the dish?

I'm thinking that if add a DPP44 switch and power inserter it can be done but I don't understand the limitations of the 2 or 3 cables from the dish to the switch. In bigger configurations (2 hoppers) I can see you need 3 cables.

Here is the configuration I'm thinking.
SAT 2 cables to DPP44 SAT ports 1 and 2
Power Inserter goes to power inserter port 1 on the DPP44
Power Inserter receiver port goes VIP211
Reciever ports 2 and 3 on the DPP44 go to the solo node for the hopper.

Will this work or does it require a third cable from the dish (not an option)?






Thank you!
 
That should work depending upon your LNB. If you have the 2 horn EA LNB that gets only 61.5 and 72, then that will work. Any other type will require 3 cables (one for each satellite orbital) from the dish to the switch.
 
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I have a 3 horn LNB so looks like i'm sol, huh? Can anyone explain why I need the 3rd cable when the hopper can run off of only 2 cables?
The Hopper uses both cables to the Node to get all of the the channels on its single cable. If you want to add a 211 to the mix you need that third cable to come from the dish directly to the 211. The 211 is a standalone receiver and nothing to do with the Hopper....
 
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You need all 3 Cables from your Western Arc LNBF to the DPP44.
Otherwise you will not get all 3 satellites.

Anything after the DPP44 switch depends on your setup.
A Solo node needs 2 cables, a duo node needs 3 if you have Dual Hoppers.

Samsung Galaxy S6 Active
 
The Hopper uses both cables to the Node to get all of the the channels on its single cable. If you want to add a 211 to the mix you need that third cable to come from the dish directly to the 211. The 211 is a standalone receiver and nothing to do with the Hopper....

This is an excellent point. You won't need the DPP44 at all. Missed that.
 
You could just remove one of the cables from the LNBF and use two short jumpers from the LNBF to connect the solo node right at the dish. The remaining coax from the LNBF to the house could then be used to feed the 211, while the other coax to the house is connected to the solo node to feed the Hopper. Only the two short 3 ft. jumpers would be needed then, instead of feeding a complete third run into the house. If needed a tap on the Hopper run could be used inside to feed a Joey.
 
You could just remove one of the cables from the LNBF and use two short jumpers from the LNBF to connect the solo node right at the dish. The remaining coax from the LNBF to the house could then be used to feed the 211, while the other coax to the house is connected to the solo node to feed the Hopper. Only the two short 3 ft. jumpers would be needed then, instead of feeding a complete third run into the house. If needed a tap on the Hopper run could be used inside to feed a Joey.

Ah, now we're talking! Any concerns moving the solo outside? With this setup I then couldn't add a Joey, right? I think this will work for now...

Is there any particular ports on the LNB that need to feed the Solo or just unhook 1 and add 2 shortys to that port and the next open port?

Thank you!
 
The Solo Node on my permanent 1K4 has spent over a year outdoors with no problems, and was just replaced with a Duo Node to serve two Hoppers. The Solo Node will be mounted on my portable 1K4 for more outdoor use on our RV travels. Both nodes are built for outdoor use, and even have a ground wire terminal. I connect my nodes with matching port numbers, but I don't think that's a requirement.
 

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