Hopper Plus Re-booting Issue

[charlesrshell]

Almighty1, updating the Hopper Plus software procedure is the same for the Joey 4s. Just updated my J4s and and WJ4s to the latest updates. Thanks for sharing info.

 

[Almighty1]

Almighty1, updating the Hopper Plus software procedure is the same for the Joey 4s. Just updated my J4s and and WJ4s to the latest updates. Thanks for sharing info.

You are very welcome, charlesrshell!

Glad the procedure is the same for all ATV's. Things were harder before P12506 as mentioned here which required putting the ATV device to sleep as mentioned here:

Hopper 3 setup with Joey Plus issue

So maybe other people such as charlesrshell with the Hopper Plus connected to a Hopper 3 can comment if pressing the power button on the remote and the Hopper 3's front panel itself actually does anything.

www.satelliteguys.us

 

[HipKat]

All you need to do is remove the power to the Plus as the Plus will only be detected when there is power and then with the TV off, move the HDMI cable from the Plus back to the Hopper 3 then turn on the TV and wait.

Better than that, hold the POWER button in, not the red reset button, for about 45 seconds or so while disconnecting the power to the Plus and moving the HDMI cable and it will reboot to the normal Hopper only

 

[HipKat]

Is it same procedure for the Joey 4s. One of my Joey 4s has been stuck on an old version now for quit a while.

Leave the Joeys in standby and they should pick up the update after the Hopper/Plus updates

 

[Almighty1]

Better than that, hold the POWER button in, not the red reset button, for about 45 seconds or so while disconnecting the power to the Plus and moving the HDMI cable and it will reboot to the normal Hopper only

Thanks! Can the holding POWER button in on the Hopper 3 be done after unplugging the Plus?

 

[HipKat]

Thanks! Can the holding POWER button in on the Hopper 3 be done after unplugging the Plus?

Probably, the early info was simultaneously, but I had it not work once and just held the power button in - the plus remained unplugged - for about a minute and it rebooted back to a hopper

 

[Almighty1]

charlesrshell - Read in the other thread you updated the Hopper 3 to H376 and the Hopper Plus to P12902, did it solve the issue you mentioned originally on this thread with the Hopper Plus rebooting?

 

[charlesrshell]

charlesrshell - Read in the other thread you updated the Hopper 3 to H376 and the Hopper Plus to P12902, did it solve the issue you mentioned originally on this thread with the Hopper Plus rebooting?

Haven't tried it yet. My Hopper Plus did the self reboot one time since I updated her to P12902. I was hoping the update would have fixed it.

 

[charlesrshell]

Almighty1, had a good Dish technician visit today. First thing he noticed was that I had an original Hopper Plus power adapter. The original Plus came out with an incorrect power adapter. The original power adapter has a red tip connector. The newer Plus power adapter has a gray tip. The red tip power adapter rating is 12V--2.1A. The gray tip rating is 12V--0.82A. Technician said the incorrect original red tip power adapters were known to have caused Hopper Plus issues. Anyway, he installed a new Hopper Plus with a gray tip power adapter. I will post in a day or two on how goes it. Hope I don’t have any more no notice Hopper Plus self-resets. Got to get my commander off my A--. I would suggest to anyone that are having Hopper Plus issues is to check your power adapter for the correct gray tip version. If it is red, call and have a Dish technician replace your Plus with the correct gray tip power adapter.

 

[Jim5506]

Some of you electrical engineers out there correct me if I'm wrong but the amperage of a power supply is a potential and it will only supply the amperage the appliance draws, so I'm skeptical of the tech remarks. A voltage differential of 2.5 is not good, can burn up equipment, but amperage, no. Rebooting if the amperage is too low, I could see, possibly overheat the power supply or the appliance just refuses to work. Just IMHO.

 

[dweber]

Some of you electrical engineers out there correct me if I'm wrong but the amperage of a power supply is a potential and it will only supply the amperage the appliance draws, so I'm skeptical of the tech remarks. A voltage differential of 2.5 is not good, can burn up equipment, but amperage, no. Rebooting if the amperage is too low, I could see, possibly overheat the power supply or the appliance just refuses to work. Just IMHO.

I agree that the higher amperage should not hurt. If the amperage was too low it could cause issues but the equipment will draw the amperage needed.


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[tjboston5676]

Some of you electrical engineers out there correct me if I'm wrong but the amperage of a power supply is a potential and it will only supply the amperage the appliance draws, so I'm skeptical of the tech remarks. A voltage differential of 2.5 is not good, can burn up equipment, but amperage, no. Rebooting if the amperage is too low, I could see, possibly overheat the power supply or the appliance just refuses to work. Just IMHO.

correct. The only difference between the two power supplies is that the red one is CAPABLE of supplying more current. The device will pull the exact same current on either power supply, so it makes zero difference. Now some devices do require more current that you get from the red plug and will not work with the grey plug. Dish designed it where the red plug will fit devices that originally used either the red or the grey, however the lower current grey plugs will not fit into devices that require the red.

 

[tjboston5676]

Almighty1, had a good Dish technician visit today. First thing he noticed was that I had an original Hopper Plus power adapter. The original Plus came out with an incorrect power adapter. The original power adapter has a red tip connector. The newer Plus power adapter has a gray tip. The red tip power adapter rating is 12V--2.1A. The gray tip rating is 12V--0.82A. Technician said the incorrect original red tip power adapters were known to have caused Hopper Plus issues. Anyway, he installed a new Hopper Plus with a gray tip power adapter. I will post in a day or two on how goes it. Hope I don’t have any more no notice Hopper Plus self-resets. Got to get my commander off my A--. I would suggest to anyone that are having Hopper Plus issues is to check your power adapter for the correct gray tip version. If it is red, call and have a Dish technician replace your Plus with the correct gray tip power adapter.

Not sure where he got his info. But the red tip power supply shouldn't cause any issues. Both power adapters supply the same voltage so it's nothing to worry about. He is correct in that it didn't come with the plus, but there is no known issues using the red one.
But hopefully replacing the plus will fix your issues.

 

[charlesrshell]

Not sure where he got his info. But the red tip power supply shouldn't cause any issues. Both power adapters supply the same voltage so it's nothing to worry about. He is correct in that it didn't come with the plus, but there is no known issues using the red one.
But hopefully replacing the plus will fix your issues.

Me too. Just passing on info he told me. He is in-house technician in St Louis.

 

[Almighty1]

Almighty1, had a good Dish technician visit today. First thing he noticed was that I had an original Hopper Plus power adapter. The original Plus came out with an incorrect power adapter. The original power adapter has a red tip connector. The newer Plus power adapter has a gray tip. The red tip power adapter rating is 12V--2.1A. The gray tip rating is 12V--0.82A. Technician said the incorrect original red tip power adapters were known to have caused Hopper Plus issues. Anyway, he installed a new Hopper Plus with a gray tip power adapter. I will post in a day or two on how goes it. Hope I don’t have any more no notice Hopper Plus self-resets. Got to get my commander off my A--. I would suggest to anyone that are having Hopper Plus issues is to check your power adapter for the correct gray tip version. If it is red, call and have a Dish technician replace your Plus with the correct gray tip power adapter.

Interesting, mines is grey tip if you are talking about the entire plastic piece which includes that lock that goes to the back of the Hopper Plus but mines is in the middle of what you listed with 12V 1.46A. Hopefully this fixes your problems but it might actually be the PS failing as remember it worked correctly before recently.

 

[Almighty1]

correct. The only difference between the two power supplies is that the red one is CAPABLE of supplying more current. The device will pull the exact same current on either power supply, so it makes zero difference. Now some devices do require more current that you get from the red plug and will not work with the grey plug. Dish designed it where the red plug will fit devices that originally used either the red or the grey, however the lower current grey plugs will not fit into devices that require the red.

How many different versions of the power supply is there as mines is grey tip, 1.46A 12V and not either of the amperages mentioned by charlesrshell. I also thought as long as the output meets or exceeds the requirement then it's fine. I just looked right under the power port on the Hopper Plus and it shows 12V 0.82A as the requirement.

 

[charlesrshell]

Interesting, mines is grey tip if you are talking about the entire plastic piece which includes that lock that goes to the back of the Hopper Plus but mines is in the middle of what you listed with 12V 1.46A. Hopefully this fixes your problems but it might actually be the PS failing as remember it worked correctly before recently.

What is PS?

 

[RTCDude]

correct. The only difference between the two power supplies is that the red one is CAPABLE of supplying more current. The device will pull the exact same current on either power supply, so it makes zero difference. Now some devices do require more current that you get from the red plug and will not work with the grey plug. Dish designed it where the red plug will fit devices that originally used either the red or the grey, however the lower current grey plugs will not fit into devices that require the red.

Yes this is correct. As tjboston5676 says, having a power supply that has a higher current rating will make no difference and will work the same (as long as the current rating of the power supply isn’t exceeded).

What can make a difference however is have a defective power supply with a thermal overload problem that heats up and shut down. Or some other defect that causes the supply to “crowbar” (safety shut down). Either would cause a power interruption and a reboot.

So while changing the power supply may appear to “fix” the problem, it will not be for a higher current rating.

 

[Almighty1]

What is PS?

Power Supply aka AC Adapter

 

[SandFarmer]

LOL, thanks Bobby. I knew I could count on you for good solid marriage advice. Removing the Plus is what I want to do too. I told wife we should just use our Firestick for watching apps. But, she is in love with the H+ setup. I still don’t like the H+ slight lag when using the trick buttons. Pure Hopper 3 trick play buttons are lightning fast. It’s been a while since I have done our H+ pull the cord re-boot. Is there a best way to do it, pull the Plus cord first or the H3? How about when plugging them back in? Hopper Plus first and let it run a while and then plug in the Hopper 3? I am going to try that before I call Dish. Thanks again.

We're streaming most everything these days. I'm using the setup for multiple boxes to do HDMI and Ethernet (MoCA) over all cable that's been run over the years. It also carries the OtA. It's only a matter of time before I get rid of d¡sh.

I've set up a memorial on the dish farm.