Hopper Interior Wiring Questions

[DACarpy]

Hello Everyone,

We are toying with the idea of switching to Dish and getting the new Hopper system installed. Some time ago in a Rental House we had Direct Tv installed. I remember from that experience when we have our own house, I will want to do some things myself. As a qoute from the technician at that time. "I'm here to install in the most cost efficient way possible". In existing houses that means drilling holes in floors for wiring and the such. I understand they've got a job to do, and to be profitable they need to do it quickly.

At the time it didn't matter wasn't my place and my landlord gave permission for install. Now that I have my own house and am in the lengthy process of remodeling it, I"m a little more picky about holes in my nice hardwood floors.

Presently we have cable, and over time I've run RG-6 and installed wall terminals for all those outlets in rooms we've refinished. I've done all that work myself, and am familiar with what I'm doing.

For what its worth, when we have had cable technicians come over for one reason or another, I've been complimented on my work. Everything is well labeled and clean.

I'd like to "customize" my existing setup to use the Hoppers Network based on the diagrams I found. That way when the tech comes all they should have to do is set up the dish, and all the interior wiring will be set, (plug and play) more or less. It shouldn't be too hard. Judging from the diagrams I will just need to run another RG-6 line for the main Hopper Feed. The Joey Feed can be used on my existing Cable "trunk" in.

My first question is this. On the main Hopper line, is it ok to use a female to female coax connector, or does it need to be a completely fresh line with no "splices". The thinking is I''d run a new line from outside to where I have my present splitter, unplug the living room feed, and just use a connector to hook up to the "hopper" line.

I need to confirm that my existing house splitter will work, but it looks like it only good for the 650-875mhz range. Which I should be well within.

Which brings me to my final question, and maybe in this case the more important. In regards to wiring, nothing has changed from the previous generation Hopper (which are the diagrams I referenced) and the new Hopper with Sling correct?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Dan

 

[Jimmerinwi]

Most techs should be able to use existing cable except for the line with the barrel, if its to a Joey, then it's fine, but if its to a hopper it should be changed. Dish requires techs to only use dish approved 3ghz line, so depending on the tech, he may want to run new line to the hoppers, joeys he can use existing. As far as a line from the dish to inside, he'll want to run his own dual line with ground so he will pass inspection if the job is qas'd.

Sent from my iPhone 4S using SatelliteGuys

 

[Smwoodward]

I am in the middle of doing central wiring myself in my home. What I had planned to do was having a connection point in the closet and a jack at the walls and move the node inside the house.

So from the node to the hopper needs to be an uninterrupted line from the node to the hopper? If that's the case it's going to throw a kink in my whole setup.

 

[lucky86]

Yes, the line from the node to the Hopper should be a direct line, no jacks or splitters etc in between.

 

[Bobby]

And, you need at least two and maybe three coax lines from the dish to the node....

 

[Scott Agrella]

The line from the node to the Hopper can have a wall jack, just make sure it's high frequency. Install standards would required a wall plate with low voltage cut in box for drywall installs. The only situation where you would have a direct line is if a wall plate is not possible due to location or plaster and lathe finish etc. Otherwise a direct line through the wall is a 1 point deduction for aesthetics.

 

[Smwoodward]

The line from the node to the Hopper can have a wall jack, just make sure it's high frequency. Install standards would required a wall plate with low voltage cut in box for drywall installs. The only situation where you would have a direct line is if a wall plate is not possible due to location or plaster and lathe finish etc. Otherwise a direct line through the wall is a 1 point deduction for aesthetics.

So, it would be ok to have a jack in my punch down closet and a jack at the wall as long as the jack is high frequency?

 

[DACarpy]

Thanks everyone for their responses.

 

[KKlare]

Note the high-frequency coupling/union/feed-through usually has a center insulator in light blue. I think those in pink/red are a lesser frequency like 2GHz instead of 3GHz vs. the white ones of 1+GHz. The second 722 installer would not proceed without changing all of them but I had to later reverse their direction to get them to fit multi-plug wall plates. He just left the wire through the square hole. It made the H/J install easy.

I would like to add some CONUS from 61.5W or 72.7 to the newly installed black dish 1000.2WA. This dish has no 4th input or did I miss it? Previously I had an early 1000 + one-feed 500 and a DPP44. (That replaced a 500 dual horn and 500 single on SW64 from VOOM days and before that bygone 148W.) Guess I should have kept DPP44 switch? I'm glad to have it off the floor.

-Ken

 

[TerryK]

Another question about wiring. Does the node take the place of my DPP44 switch? I generally like to have everything ready for the installer to plug and play when installing new equipment and I am trying to figure out if the node will be installed near my dish like my switch is now or in the garage at my RJ45/coax panel.

 

[lucky86]

Another question about wiring. Does the node take the place of my DPP44 switch? I generally like to have everything ready for the installer to plug and play when installing new equipment and I am trying to figure out if the node will be installed near my dish like my switch is now or in the garage at my RJ45/coax panel.

What satellites do you need signal from? Most people don't need a switch. The solo node only needs two sat feeds and the duo node needs three.

 

[TerryK]

I currently get satellites 110, 119 and 129, they in turn go to my switch and then to my 722k, 622 and 612.

 

[lucky86]

I currently get satellites 110, 119 and 129, they in turn go to my switch and then to my 722k, 622 and 612.

You won't need a switch and its one less fail point.

 

[TerryK]

Cool, thanks for the info!