Thanks a lot Dude. I will squeeze one question here quick.
I move movie files ( 1.3-2.2 GB) from laptop into portable external hard drives. When the process is done I usually wait 15-30 seconds, right click 'savely remove' icon on task bar. I unplug the usb cable from laptop when Windows approves it.
Sometimes, it gives a warning and says ' it is in process'. I don't remember exact words. I am hundred percent sure no files are being transferred!
What to do in this case? Ignore and unplug, or wait and try again (or wait until I put the laptop in sleep or turn it off).
Thanks.
Thanks a lot Dude. I will squeeze one question here quick.
I move movie files ( 1.3-2.2 GB) from laptop into portable external hard drives. When the process is done I usually wait 15-30 seconds, right click 'savely remove' icon on task bar. I unplug the usb cable from laptop when Windows approves it.
Sometimes, it gives a warning and says ' it is in process'. I don't remember exact words. I am hundred percent sure no files are being transferred!
What to do in this case? Ignore and unplug, or wait and try again (or wait until I put the laptop in sleep or turn it off).
Thanks.
Sometime Windows hangs onto removable drives for some reason. It could be that you have a program open that is using (or in some cases just previously used) a file on that drive and has the drive reserved because of that. Just quit that program to cancel any drive reservations.
And stupidly that program can be File Explorer itself! If that is the case, try closing any Explorer windows you may still have open for the removable HD.
Otherwise just try “ejecting” the drive again after a few more seconds. If after repeated tries Windows still won’t let go of the drive, just check that the activity light on the HD isn’t blinking (most HDs have one) and just pull the USB plug when it’s completely quiet.
Windows will then complain you didn’t eject the drive properly first (I would if you would!); just ignore the prompt. Just make very sure the HD activity blinking before pulling the plug.
Absolutely, I was only showing the 1TB because I have one. 2TB is a better proposition. That hub is an excellent idea. My hubs don't have on-off buttons but I don't see why it wouldn't be useful.
Sipping my coffee and reading all the responses. Learning a lot. I sure appreciate you all.
I checked Bobby's recommendation. Thread # 8. A nice one. Portable.
I need to ask few questions regarding a usb hub (with its own power cable.)
Good idea because.......
1- You have several ehds that you can connect all to a hub. No more swapping them to make it easier. I assume Hopper 3 will recognize (hopefully) them and give them numbers 1,2, etc. If that's the case you need to either randomly choose one and see what the recordings are or you write what you have on ehds on a piece of paper and choose accordingly.
2- A powered usb is a good idea for portable ehds to Hopper3 because Dish recommends (or requires a powered ehd). Perhaps, that extra power is necessary to spin the drive. I am making an assumption here.
Am I correct with these assumptions?
Any good recommendation for a powered usb hub? Something won't break the bank?
For #1, the numbers are assigned randomly so it will say External Device x connected where x is the device #. If one only had one devices connected, then it will always say 1. If you have more than one device connected, it will randomly assign the # each time from my experience which should still be a number between 1-3. With H358 and H362 versions of software, the x can be 4 but the problem is you will not see the drive show up in Other Devices as the software apparently cannot allow anything higher than 3 to show up. So what I mean by connected is assuming that you had a regular powered hub where there are no on/off switches for each port, every connected EHDD that has power and connected is considered one device so if the EHDD has a power switch, turning it off is the same as disconnected or you can use one of these which is what I think bookworm370 was referring to so you can connect as many EHDD's as your heart desires but only 3 ports should be turned on for the devices connected to it. I don't know if one can daisy chain USB hubs on a DISH Hopper 3 or not but for example, you can have maybe 70 EHDD's as you can probably put another of the same hub on each port and then connect EHDD's to it so in any case, what's considered connected is the port has to be turned on first and also the power on the EHDD is turned on if the EHDD has it's own power switch.
Here is one which is $59.99 but also has 16 ports (10 USB 3.0 Ports+4 2.4A Charging Ports+2 USB-C 3.0 Ports) just as a example that you can have more EHDD's than the DISH Hopper 3 supports physically connected:
Target has a 2TB Seagate for $62.99, I only saw the price on the shelf but not the actual drive as it seems like they stock a low supply (Qty 1 to be exact of one or two models) of hard drives in their inventory. The Western Digital Black portable is probably the fastest as it probably uses the Western Digital Black internal hard drive.
As for the USB Hub mentioned, are the charging ports just for charging only or are they also connected with other devices for data?
Thanks a lot Dude. I will squeeze one question here quick.
I move movie files ( 1.3-2.2 GB) from laptop into portable external hard drives. When the process is done I usually wait 15-30 seconds, right click 'savely remove' icon on task bar. I unplug the usb cable from laptop when Windows approves it.
Sometimes, it gives a warning and says ' it is in process'. I don't remember exact words. I am hundred percent sure no files are being transferred!
What to do in this case? Ignore and unplug, or wait and try again (or wait until I put the laptop in sleep or turn it off).
Thanks.
I would like to mention a experience yesterday when I mounted the DISH EHDD's to my computer and it basically won't allow removal. The reason was because I had a partition manager software reading the drive and/or something like Crystal Disk Info so it doesn't need to be writing to the drive but if you have software that can access the drive and locking the process, it will also not allow you to do the safety removal. For what you mentioned, laptop or not, what you can do is probably the safest method other than doing a shutdown is put the computer into Hibernate mode and when the computer looks like it's powered off, you can probably disconnect the HDD at that point before you resume from Hibernate mode since I would think Hibernate mode should be very safe as the computer will act as if it was already powered off at that point and the EHDD probably would too if it was USB powered without a power supply and even if it did have a power supply, the USB side of the connection as in the PC is already off and no longer data connected so it should probably be safe but ofcourse it basically means you will not be using the computer until you resume from the hibernation but it will allow the computer also to cool down. Even though in theory, one can pull the USB cable as long as there is no HDD activity based on the HDD activity led, this just seems like it would be an even safer way as the computer would be in a similar state as being powered off.
Ofcourse this could be a bad idea as someone else may point out.
Absolutely, I was only showing the 1TB because I have one. 2TB is a better proposition. That hub is an excellent idea. My hubs don't have on-off buttons but I don't see why it wouldn't be useful.
The on-off buttons are useful because it will also help in not having to keep unplugging and plugging in cables as you can disconnect to the EHDDs using the buttons so if the Hopper 3 doesn't detect the drives, sometimes it requires pulling the cable and plugging it back in which may involve rebooting and if that still doesn't work, it will require disconnecting the cables first, reboot and then plugging it back in. With the on-off buttons, you would just use the buttons to serve as the connecting and disconnecting which will save wear and tear on the ports and the cables which would explain why I was actually looking for USB-A cable(s) with on/off switch to add in front of the EHDD USB cables.
The on-off buttons are useful because it will also help in not having to keep unplugging and plugging in cables as you can disconnect to the EHDDs using the buttons so if the Hopper 3 doesn't detect the drives, sometimes it requires pulling the cable and plugging it back in which may involve rebooting and if that still doesn't work, it will require disconnecting the cables first, reboot and then plugging it back in. With the on-off buttons, you would just use the buttons to serve as the connecting and disconnecting which will save wear and tear on the ports and the cables which would explain why I was actually looking for USB-A cable(s) with on/off switch to add in front of the EHDD USB cables.
Yep and those of the things I thought of that seems like a possibility so I wasn't disagreeing, but agreeing and just listing the benefits of it but ofcourse hopefully the switches don't fail.
I ordered 2 TB WD and that powered usb hub with 4 ports and a charger port. I don't need a hub with too many ports. Will get them tomorrow. I will report here how it goes.
I am grateful to good friends here. C U soon.
Apologies everyone for being an ass. I see some decisions in the bucket for drives and hubs.
That on/off switch is really for controlling non-storage devices. There are several 'tube reviews I just pondered over.
I also surfed over if Seagate ever fixed their drive issues, and sadly opinions are mixed. WD seems to be the winner.
Being a bit curious of ext 3 or ext 4 ever being safe to hot swap on a whim. Never safe w/o a proper unmount and sometimes ok if the drive is set read only. Unix based and Windows file systems being very different. Just do it the right way. Again. The hubs with switches are for shutting off non-storage devices. The do not initiate a safe removal.
Fast for video storage and retrieval is pretty non important. Most if not all video hdd's are 5400 rpm.
I'm pretty sure y'all arent seeing your things with storage shutting right off when you hit the juice button. A reason?
Hibernate mode has the good and the bad traits. Occasional lockups, strange occurrences or plain refusal to wake up. Or it works perfect. Or not.
Hey. I check for drive spinnage, spinification by using the gyro effect feedback. Very gently with slight rocking.
It might be a cool thing for me to pop the lids off of a few full size and lappy drives using my external usb drive adapters and see what materializes when you pop the usb plug out of its socket.
I mean. The r/w head floats on a cushion of air. And if it can return to the park ramp before the platter(s) slow. No physical damage happens. Modern heads are supposed to park immediately when no power applied.
I don't know. Does it really make sense using more than a 4 port hub with a dish /direc receiver?
Or did I miss something?
Anyways. Sorry for wearing what shoulda' been in my jeans on my shoulders.
arlo - Yes, don't treat the on/off switch for safe removal but it's more of a way to disconnect the connection to the port in general without plugging in and unplugging the cable or basically without wearing down the cable or the port which was what I was saying. So if you do use it, it's the same effect as pulling the cable when you put it on off and plugging in the cable when you put it on on as a better way to describe it.
As for Mac OS also known as Darwin which is just the Mach Kernel with the rest of the OS being FreeBSD and then Aqua which probably has a different name now for the GUI.
I am getting little confused with individual on/off click buttons on powered usb hubs.
With computers, I believe you need permission (by selecting 'safely remove hardware' icon on the task bar), wait until Windows says 'go ahead'. Unplugging the cord or removing the device from the hub is a bad idea and may cause data loss.
With powered usb hub connected to Hopper3, you can connect one or few ehds. If you press the corresponding on/off buttons won't all of them start spinning?
My understanding is the ehd is inactive (off) and no spinning to avoid unnecessary wear & tear when you don't push that on/off button. What I don't know is (yet) if Hopper3 will show ehd after you push the button. If it doesn't do I need to reboot Hopper3?
I am getting little confused with individual on/off click buttons on powered usb hubs.
With computers, I believe you need permission (by selecting 'safely remove hardware' icon on the task bar), wait until Windows says 'go ahead'. Unplugging the cord or removing the device from the hub is a bad idea and may cause data loss.
With powered usb hub connected to Hopper3, you can connect one or few ehds. If you press the corresponding on/off buttons won't all of them start spinning?
My understanding is the ehd is inactive (off) and no spinning to avoid unnecessary wear & tear when you don't push that on/off button. What I don't know is (yet) if Hopper3 will show ehd after you push the button. If it doesn't do I need to reboot Hopper3?
No confusion needed. A bit of rectification possibly.
Unconnected drive. Hub power switch off.
Plug in USB storage. Turn on hub power switch.
Storage should be identified.
To....."properly".....remove the storage device. Use the OS unmount drive, safely remove hardware function.
Wait for verification that its cool to do it.
Either turn off the power switch and unplug the usb storage.
Or. Simply unplug the storage device and leave the switch on.
Again. The power switch would be for usb devices that you wish selectively switch off such as a power bank, multiple DAC audio devices, printers. Or things that may clutter up a list of optional devices. Take printers for an example.
You can leave them on and simply unplug the usb cable if you have an inkjet, laser, sublimation.
The OS may default to the next one down in the list if the actual default is not present.
An on/off switch would end hunting for the cable mess you have on the floor.
Or if you might have several strings of USB lighting, etc.
Pushing a button, or several, on the hub would end hunting for the right string to plug back in.
"A pink one, a red one, the colours you choose".
A negative of using a power switch. At least for a few Tascam, etc. DAC units I have is if you use the power switch on them, and shut them off. When you turn the power switch back on. They do not show up in the OS. You have to physically unplug and plug the usb cable back in.
Make your own decision from here on. Do you really need a hub with switches for your dishes? (Good one, Arlo-kowski!!).
No confusion needed. A bit of rectification possibly.
Unconnected drive. Hub power switch off.
Plug in USB storage. Turn on hub power switch.
Storage should be identified.
To....."properly".....remove the storage device. Use the OS unmount drive, safely remove hardware function.
Wait for verification that its cool to do it.
Either turn off the power switch and unplug the usb storage.
Or. Simply unplug the storage device and leave the switch on.
Again. The power switch would be for usb devices that you wish selectively switch off such as a power bank, multiple DAC audio devices, printers. Or things that may clutter up a list of optional devices. Take printers for an example.
You can leave them on and simply unplug the usb cable if you have an inkjet, laser, sublimation.
The OS may default to the next one down in the list if the actual default is not present.
An on/off switch would end hunting for the cable mess you have on the floor.
Or if you might have several strings of USB lighting, etc.
Pushing a button, or several, on the hub would end hunting for the right string to plug back in.
"A pink one, a red one, the colours you choose".
A negative of using a power switch. At least for a few Tascam, etc. DAC units I have is if you use the power switch on them, and shut them off. When you turn the power switch back on. They do not show up in the OS. You have to physically unplug and plug the usb cable back in.
Make your own decision from here on. Do you really need a hub with switches for your dishes? (Good one, Arlo-kowski!!).
That's fine for computer peripherals but this is a DISH receiver forum and this thread relates to adding and removing an EHD from a Hopper. There is no dismount sequence involved available. I have hot mount/unmounted my EHD many times over the 13 years I have been using it on my 722\Hoppers. It continues to function fine with zero corruption.
That's fine for computer peripherals but this is a DISH receiver forum and this thread relates to adding and removing an EHD from a Hopper. There is no dismount sequence involved available. I have hot mount/unmounted my EHD many times over the 13 years I have been using it on my 722\Hoppers. It continues to function fine with zero corruption.
Well excuse me. Why not record something and while recording, pull the cable. Tell us how you do.
Yup you're right. It IS a dish forum. As I understand it and from the actual dish website. You can take a non-dvr receiver and activate the dvr capability by plugging in an external storage device (hdd) and make a phone call and there you have it. Si?
Why do you remove the drive once its connected, number one?
And number two, did you actually dive into the dvr menu and see the dish's nondescript unmount command?
And if you do the deed. Or did it. Do you lose the feature? Or have to call them again when you plug it back in?
English, chinglish. Take it as you may. I can accept you have 'hot-swapped' your ehd. Is it right? Does it cause any corruption? Is a hidden file system check going on in the background when you do plug it back in?
What would happen if you did plug the unplugged-hot drive into a Linux machine and ran a fsck, etc?
Just fortifying the very common practice that people do not realize and which occurs time after time (ie: the cereal bowl effect). There is a correct. Even if not exercised. Method to do it . Let people with phones, pc's, tablets, powered on cameras know about......oh hell oops. Its a dish thread.
I am getting little confused with individual on/off click buttons on powered usb hubs.
With computers, I believe you need permission (by selecting 'safely remove hardware' icon on the task bar), wait until Windows says 'go ahead'. Unplugging the cord or removing the device from the hub is a bad idea and may cause data loss.
With powered usb hub connected to Hopper3, you can connect one or few ehds. If you press the corresponding on/off buttons won't all of them start spinning?
My understanding is the ehd is inactive (off) and no spinning to avoid unnecessary wear & tear when you don't push that on/off button. What I don't know is (yet) if Hopper3 will show ehd after you push the button. If it doesn't do I need to reboot Hopper3?
The on/off buttons are similar to the on/off switch to turn on and off the lights in a house so the light bulb can be in the socket or not but until the power switch is turned to on, there won't be electricity going to the light socket. Same with the on/off switch on a USB hub so with the power button in the off postion, that is the same as a EHDD that was not plugged in even if it was plugged in and when you have it as on, basically it allows the signal to reach what is connected to the USB port. or think of it closer to a surge protector where there might be a master switch. If you turn the master switch off, nothing plugged in is going to get any power but in this case, they are just giving one control of the power at a local level so each port can be turned off instead of it being on normally without the on/off switch. The older USB Hubs with individual on/off switches had a different type of power switch and not the push buttons like this below which might make more sense:
The select safely remove hardware icon is a software level thing and not hardware. There were several builds versions of Windows 11 Beta Insiders a few weeks ago that was completely missing the Safety Remove hardware icon a few weeks ago before it was fixed. When that bug existed, the only way to get that icon was to either plug in something else that was USB that can be removed or in my case, my mouse USB charger/receiver when taken out and plugged back
in would bring back the icon.
Well excuse me. Why not record something and while recording, pull the cable. Tell us how you do.
Yup you're right. It IS a dish forum. As I understand it and from the actual dish website. You can take a non-dvr receiver and activate the dvr capability by plugging in an external storage device (hdd) and make a phone call and there you have it. Si?
Why do you remove the drive once its connected, number one?
And number two, did you actually dive into the dvr menu and see the dish's nondescript unmount command?
And if you do the deed. Or did it. Do you lose the feature? Or have to call them again when you plug it back in?
English, chinglish. Take it as you may. I can accept you have 'hot-swapped' your ehd. Is it right? Does it cause any corruption? Is a hidden file system check going on in the background when you do plug it back in?
What would happen if you did plug the unplugged-hot drive into a Linux machine and ran a fsck, etc?
Just fortifying the very common practice that people do not realize and which occurs time after time (ie: the cereal bowl effect). There is a correct. Even if not exercised. Method to do it . Let people with phones, pc's, tavveblets, powered on cameras know about......oh hell oops. Its a dish thread.
arlo - Don't take it the wrong way but you have to take everything into consideration like what the barriers are and what is available to the user. Let's look at the Hopper 3 as the DVR itself. What you may not be aware of is there is no such thing as powering it off unless it was completely unplugged from the wall or plugged into something that has a on/off switch with the switch in the off position as the Hopper 3 will either be in off mode which is really standby mode where the video on the screen will have a screen saver but the box itself will still be recording based on the timers and if the HDMI port is still on to display the screen saver, the USB ports will probably still remain on. So the only difference between the standby which is the off mode and the on mode as far as the DVR goes is when on, the live tv as the channel you are watching has up to a 1 hour buffer and I said up to for a reason because if you went from standby to on, it will only go back to the amount of time after you turned it on and assuming the box was already on, if you change to another channel, the buffer starts from the time you changed to that channel.
As for why one removes the drive once its connected, lots of reasons.... The DVR is buggy. Sometimes while you may see it connected and trying to access the drive on bootup, until you see it show the message that says External Device x connected for each external HDD which can be up to 3 so the x should be 1-3 , do not hit the DVR button to show the DVR screen because if you do, unless either you reboot or unplug, you will only see the External Devices that showed the message up to the point you hit the DVR button which on the screen is a icon that says other devices, that number on the corner will never be less than 1, it can go up to 4 as the 1 is the internal HDD so 2 means internal plus 1 external is detected and available for access. 3 means internal plus 2 external is detected and available for access. 4 means internal plus 3 external is detected and available for access. So assuming you didn't press the DVR button and you waited and all the external HDD leds are now stable but when you press the DVR button and it shows a number that is less than your internal + external drives, you have only two options. One is to disconnect and plug back in each one that did not show up in the list while the DVR is still on. And you are probably going to ask why not restart the DVR first and then plug it back in. So more explanation is needed. The Hopper 3 DVR has 16 tuners so it can be recording up to 16 different things at the same time or you could be watching live either what's on the tuners so if you turned it off, didn't you either lose viewing what you were watching and also interrupted all of the recordings while they are happening. There are other scenarios as unlike your Windows or Linux or whatever computer, the DISH has buggy software so remember I said x above, if it shows the number 4 in the message instead of 1-3 as with the last two software versions, that EHDD will not show up in Other Devices no matter what you do without rebooting. Rebooting means either using the menu, hitting the red reset button similar to the reset switch on your PC or the last one is pulling the power from the AC outlet. Sometimes even those options will not let one or more of the EHDD's get detected after it's booted up so what happens in that scenario is while the Hopper 3 is on and working, you have to disconnect all the EHDD's as no message ever showed up after it stopped the HDD light flashing and now solid, and do reboot without any EHDD connected using the different rebooting methods and after it is on, then you plug all the drives in after it has rebooted and it should then detect the drives but remember not to access the DVR button on the remote until after it's done querying each drive. So unlike the things you mentioned where you have a choice, remember the DVR has limited options and there are no other choices accessible to you as the user since we do not even have a way to check uptime like when it was last rebooted and how much time in years, months, weeks, days, hours, minutes, seconds it has been actually running since the last reboot. To even get the so called unmount option, first someone would have to find a way to hack the DVR and then enable terminal/shell access and then having a way to connect a keyboard or something else to type the commands which is not possible because remember this is what's called a limited closed system where the only access the user has is the GUI interface and what functions are allowed and not allowed from the remote control, nothing else. That's why reading about something whether on the forums or on DISH's website will only give you knowledge but it does not replace the actual hands on personal experience of using that DVR to know exactly how it reacts and what can and cannot be done. And just in case you want to know, if you were recording something or in this case, transferring something to the EHDD and pulled the cable, you wouldn't lose anything because first of all, the original recording will still be on the internal HDD since remember I said earlier that if I was transferring something and it got to 70% and the process hanged, you would assume something like this would happen... the source would have deleted the 70% and only kept the 30% that wasn't transferred if you rebooted while the 70% would be on the destination target EHDD but what happens when you reboot is 100% of the original recording is still on the internal HD, the external HDD would have 0% of the failed transfer as the DISH Hopper 3, what it actually does from what I can tell is it has to finish the transfer where it reaches 100% and then I am sure it does some kind of check to make sure the recording is the same on the source and the target, then delete the original recording on the Internal HDD
before it will come back and tell you it transferred the recording successfully. And I am sure you had read all the posts on the forum, when was the last time ever you heard anyone had a corrupted EHDD or even internal EHDD when the transfers hanged or it came back with a message saying it transferred x recordings with errors. The later really means it is still on the internal HD as a recording and did not actually get transferred to the EHDD successfully and usually in cases like that, rebooting even if using just the menu will fix it so when the DVR is completely on again, you can transfer the recordings successfully without the errors. While somethings are not supposed to work in theory, apparently no one has ever had the issue of recordings failing from pulling the cord even while it was recording. So even with a timer recording, there can be a power outage or DISH forces rebooting of the box. The recording will be viewable and the length of up to the point of when the power or restart was forced so the only bad thing is because it happened while the timer was still running, you get a partial recording and then the DVR will still record if there was a active timer after it powers up again which may be from the beginning of that timer if it is on before the start time or it might start from the time the DVR rebooted if it was after the start time but before the ending time.
So a lot of times, it might depend on the implementation of something as Windows is less tolerant than Unix type OSes any day of the week when it comes to corruption and other things and Unix OSes usually will know the system was not shutdown properly as it was not marked clean so it will do the standard fsck and fix any errors if any as there are plenty of times when even Unix OSes can have a kernel panic which requires hitting the reset button or toggling the power switch and this is on things like IBM RS/6000's running AIX, IBM ES/9000s, DEC Alpha AXP, Sun workstations and servers, PCs running some flavor of Linux, *BSD, QNX and they usually came back without any issues. And this is from dealing with many hundred thousands of systems over the last 33+ years. Other than 2.5" HDD's, all of the HDD failures are always related to it being used while Windows was running. Maybe it's the way the filesystems are designed. So I am sure that the old time users of DISH receivers would know what they are talking about. Yes, I have used DISH for the last 12 years which is still considered new compared to how long some other people have been with DISH before me.
See my post #27 to see where the on/off switches will be beneficial when it comes to the DISH Hopper 3 DVR as one would use them for a different reason without causing wear and tear on the ports the cable connectors. All you really do is keep things plugged in and only turn it off which is the same as unplugging and turned on which is the same as replugging something back in after you unplugged them. I know you meant well arlo but it's better if everyone stayed on topic and answer the question with the items that are in question in the same environment meaning with a DISH Hopper 3 DVR and not a EHDD with a computer as it's not even remotely related and wouldn't help with the answer anyways because the EHDD's referenced will only be connected to the DISH Hopper 3 and nothing else so the options mentioned are not even available. That's similar to saying that a laptop has a physical power switch like an older computer did where it would physically connect or disconnect inside a real switch as the current notebooks, the power switches are more soft switches where if you held it for 10 seconds, it would then power the system off. It's like a convenience feature whether if you didn't have the on/off switches, and even if you don't use them, they can come in handy in certain situations as I have mentioned and if you didn't have them originally, then you don't have that flexibility for options should you needed. No different than USB is supposed to be Plug N Play but remember Bill Gates introducing Windows 95, it was more Plug and Pray which was why I said implementation and how well it is designed are factors on the benefits versus risks as well since I am sure even without unplugging, if conditions are right, one can still fry both the EHDD and the DISH DVR whether one likes it or not.
Reading, re-reading, learning as much as I can. Glad you guys take your time and share your wisdom. Having 2 different ways of looking at things is actually pretty helpful.
Back to my order.... Kept checking my porch for Amazon delivery yesterday afternoon..it was supposed to be a next day delivery. No luck. Perhaps, my items were shipped from a distant warehouse. They should be here today.
Meanwhile, couple questions. Please remember your answers are not just for me, but others who may purchase/use ehds.
1- Some folders on my Hopper3 dvr are created by Hopper3. Episodes of the same shows. I created some folders myself. For instance, a folder I named 'Nature'. When I record nature related shows (from public tv, national geographic, etc.) I move them there. I find it much easier that way. Nature, movies, music......
Now, is it possible to move these folders I created into ehd? If not, do I need to open the folders, select all the recordings and move them? If I do that will Hopper3 allow me create folders within ehd and keep them in that particular folder? I find it easier to keep similiar recordings in folders.
2- There is no such thing as copying. Right? You move them. The recordings are no longer available in Hopper3's internal drive. (I see no reason to have 2 copies anyway. The whole purpose is having more space .)
3- Let's say you watch few shows (moved to ehd). You are ready to delete them. Can you delete them when they are still in ehd? Or, do I need to move them back to Hopper3 first and delete?
4- WD ehd will come as a formatted drive from the manufacturer. Do I need to format it with my computer first and change it to fat32 or ntfc, and connect it to hub/Hopper3 and let hopper3 format it again? I am assuming Hopper3 will always require its own formating. Am I right?
I want my experience to be a smooth easy ride and painless. When I do my own search regarding these matters at Web, I see so many conflicting suggestions. This is the place though.
Thank you all.
.
