10' CM Perf on AJAK H180

[RimaNTSS]

I've started some works on my Ajak. Of course, took it apart, cleaned, sanblasted, painted. Still need to find new end-switches, make Elevation and Declination adjusters. I like this motor! It has task, for the beginning, to turn 1,8m Channel Master dish. Will think about improving of pulse-count afterwards.

 

[Titanium]

RimaNTSS,

You are an artist!

Looks as good as it will perform!

 

[RimaNTSS]

What do you mean Titanium , you like navy-blue paint?

 

[Titanium]

Yes, it looks great!

I really appreciate the detail that you put into your projects! First rate! If you do something, you do it right!

 

[RimaNTSS]

Hi all! I know that some of you ( Magic Static and estep for sure) disassembled Ajaks. I have a question about worm-gear: How to adjust it if there are no fine adjustment bolts? Some motors have such a bolts, they usually work with very strong springs to make sure there is no play in the worm-gear. Another issue- those thin washers, they are used to make sure gears have 90* between them.... my motor has 3 washers and I forgot where was 2 washers and where was only one. But basic question about worm-gear: Was that easy to assemble the motor making sure there is no play?
Still can not manage to remove 5-magnet wheel , it is stuck and I am afraid to break it upon removal.
Other ways, my Ajak restoration project is slowly moving ahead:
- got new switches;
- got piece of pipe (which will be vertical one) 100x100x5mm;
- got axis to connect mount to vertical pipe;
- working on elevation control mechanism;

 

[Magic Static]

The magnet wheel is just a press fit. Shouldn't be that hard to remove. I have a bunch of them. The backlash on the final drive is a bit crude.

 

[RimaNTSS]

Thanks for that. Will do one more try to remove magnet wheel.
Those 2 nuts and shims are just to fix the worm in certain position. But worm should be moved along the red arrow. That move is done by hand? I was thinking to make some kind of adjustment mechanism for the worm by placing 2 threaded rodes (green), but, perhaps, it is unnecessary over-engineering. Therefore I was asking is there any play in the worm-gear after assembling.

 

[Magic Static]

The pictured AJAK had some wear on the big gear. When adjusted in the middle it was too tight on the ends. I had to work with it a bit to get it to my liking. Most definitely try to set that up before you mount a dish on it. I tried for the least amount of play possible.

 

[Magic Static]

Another note: When I remove the magnet wheel, I don't pry up on the edges but rather use a pair of pliers and pull from the center of the wheel.

 

[RimaNTSS]

When adjusted in the middle it was too tight on the ends.

That is because Ajak does not have special mechanism which would adjust tension in worm-gear pair. Example of such a mechanism is in Jaeger 1224 motor (2 big red nuts), but that is another story. So, I feel it is not so easy to make proper adjustments of worm-gear in Ajak, will continue to think about additional adjusters like I mentioned before.

 

[Magic Static]

I believe the AJAK was setup in the factory and was never intended to be user adjusted. Fortunately some of us have skills and these fine pieces of equipment won't go to waste

 

[RimaNTSS]

Another note: When I remove the magnet wheel, I don't pry up on the edges but rather use a pair of pliers and pull from the center of the wheel.

I removed magnet wheel only after broke the motor
Actually, by accident, Ajak fell down from ~1,5m and now motor looks like this Totally destroyed . But what should I expect - Friday 13th!
But good news- I finished with elevation control mechanism.

 

[Magic Static]

that really hurts, even from here Sorry to see that. I have never run into a spare AJAK motor.

 

[RimaNTSS]

At least one member of this forum has spare one and indicated readiness to let it go to me.
But meanwhile, I went to scrap-yard and picket-up several motors. From them I chose one from truck, it runs on 24 volts and shaft turns in 2 seconds. I made adapter plate, now it fits inside Ajak. Only should think how to attach cg-wheel for chain movement.

 

[primestar31]

that really hurts, even from here Sorry to see that. I have never run into a spare AJAK motor.

I found a link years ago that explained where the motors came from. Let me try to find it again. If I remember right, they were a motor used in a particular truck. Maybe for windshield wipers? I can't remember for sure.

 

[RimaNTSS]

Trucks are usually have 24V DC, but, who knows, maybe some motors can operate on increased voltage up to 36V.
On my motor there are 3 wires and if I connect 24V DC to 2 of them then wheel makes one turn in 2 seconds, another combination of wires gives lower speed of wheel- turn in 1,6 seconds. I think this is good to have possibility to change speed of Ajak turning the dish. Magic Static maybe you have data or have possibility to check the speed of original Ajak magnet wheel?
I more and more like new motor. Gave some cleaning to it today, looks like new now . Will paint in some original paint, for example golden But still need to find the way how to connect chain cog-wheel to the shaft.

 

[Magic Static]

The original AJAK motor is wound for 30V. I think 24V should be good. The original motor ran the magnet wheel 120RPM or 2 rev per second without a load. With my enhanced sensor I run a counting speed of 40hz.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/attachments/ajak-012-jpg.65653/

 

[Magic Static]

But still need to find the way how to connect chain cog-wheel to the shaft.

While it may be difficult to "change horses in the middle of a race" I would have looked for a power window motor from a 24V system truck. They don't use the "break loose" style fitting of the wiper motors.

 

[RimaNTSS]

The original AJAK motor is wound for 30V. I think 24V should be good.

I meant oposite: if motor is designed for 24V, then it is maybe not so good to feed it with 30-36V.

The original motor ran the magnet wheel 120RPM or 2 rev per second without a load. With my enhanced sensor I run a counting speed of 40hz.

How much the load changer RPMs?

They don't use the "break loose" style fitting.

Could you elaborate on this please, do not really getting the issue.

 

[Magic Static]

Maybe you could stack a few nuts on the threaded shaft tight with some thread locker. Then grind of the corners until you have a shaft you can fit the gear over. Then drill it for the pin or thread it and use a set screw... Just thinking out loud