The AJAK was found to be seized in the mainshaft. Dang it!! It looked so good too. No wonder it felt nice and tight. Another AJAK overhaul coming up. I've been looking over the magnet wheel and deciding how to manufacture my improved version. You can actually hear the reed switch click when the magnet passes by. And I thought the hard part would be picking the paint LOL.
10' CM Perf on AJAK H180
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Dont think I'd go with a bigger wheel.
How hard would it be to make one like the original?
Then we through-drill it for some tiny magnets.
Need an even number, of alternating polarity.
That could be 20, 24, 26, maybe 30, 32...
Then the new reed switch disc would sport one of the micro reeds.
I have a large cache of both.
That's why I asked if you'd like to brainstorm the project.
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As for paints, I've already offered my opinion.
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As for paints, I've already offered my opinion.
Hammerite was your choice right ?
have you tried por 15 ?
if so how do they compare
I have some blank circuit board material. I will cut three disks and laminate them together. 1 disk will have a square center hole to match the drive shaft key. It will not be drilled for magnets. The other 2 disks will hold the magnets and laminated on the first disk. I'll end up with a disk the same diameter and thickness as the original. A micro reed will be needed for sure. My concern is having too many counts for a VBox. I don't think we should go over twenty magnets.Dont think I'd go with a bigger wheel.
How hard would it be to make one like the original?
Then we through-drill it for some tiny magnets.
Need an even number, of alternating polarity.
That could be 20, 24, 26, maybe 30, 32...
Then the new reed switch disc would sport one of the micro reeds.
I have a large cache of both.
That's why I asked if you'd like to brainstorm the project.
.
As for paints, I've already offered my opinion.
Getting the reed to sense the 20 magnets might be a problem, depending on distance between magnets.
You should put them in as large a circle as possible, of course.
Original magnets on the Ajak are little discs.
The distance between them and the length of the reed switch make their double count work.
My super magnets are little rods (when I find them, I'll give dimensions).
I've never considered trying to make the trick work with those.
The magnets poles would be pointed to where the old reed currently is.
If "up" is toward the reed, then one magnet would have North pole up, followed North down on second magnet.
However, 20 magnets will only double the count.
I don't think we can do better.
If you'll check out the thread by Pendragon, where he fit the optical shaft encoder on his Birdview, he talks about the Gbox handling plus or minus 9,999 counts.
So no chance we'd have an overflow problem.
You should put them in as large a circle as possible, of course.
Original magnets on the Ajak are little discs.
The distance between them and the length of the reed switch make their double count work.
My super magnets are little rods (when I find them, I'll give dimensions).
I've never considered trying to make the trick work with those.
The magnets poles would be pointed to where the old reed currently is.
If "up" is toward the reed, then one magnet would have North pole up, followed North down on second magnet.
However, 20 magnets will only double the count.
I don't think we can do better.
If you'll check out the thread by Pendragon, where he fit the optical shaft encoder on his Birdview, he talks about the Gbox handling plus or minus 9,999 counts.
So no chance we'd have an overflow problem.
Yea, but.. I don't have a GBox for this dish. I wish I did. But can't buy one anymore. And I think a VBox is limited to 2000 counts. So the fly in the ointment is getting a controller to cooperate with this endeavor. While I have a GBox on my other AJAK, I don't wish to degrade it in favor of the new dish just yet. I may want to try some different configurations. I have a lot of material to make the disks with and depending on the reed switch capabilities, I may try for a high number of small magnets. I also need to develop some manufacturing skill for this project. I may have to practice a couple times 
I may order a couple of the really small magnets and see if they will reliably operate a switch. If I can get a very small one to work I can use them for making different count discs that can use the same reed switch position. We may find a performance curve or limitation trying different number mag wheels.
I may order a couple of the really small magnets and see if they will reliably operate a switch. If I can get a very small one to work I can use them for making different count discs that can use the same reed switch position. We may find a performance curve or limitation trying different number mag wheels.Most disk magnets are axially magnetized, are the AJAK magnets diametrically magnetized? That would give you 10 alternating poles passing by the reed switch.
Clever Ajak guys
I -think- on the Ajak (can't recall if I confirmed), all 5 magnets are oriented the same way: north pole up.
When magnet #1 is under the left end of the reed, it closes.
As the disc rotates the reed releases.
Then, magnet #2 goes under the right end of the reed, and it closes again.
The reed, sensing alternately on both ends, doubles the count like you had 10 magnets instead of only 5.
I -think- on the Ajak (can't recall if I confirmed), all 5 magnets are oriented the same way: north pole up.
When magnet #1 is under the left end of the reed, it closes.
As the disc rotates the reed releases.
Then, magnet #2 goes under the right end of the reed, and it closes again.
The reed, sensing alternately on both ends, doubles the count like you had 10 magnets instead of only 5.
When it comes to making a new wheel for the magnets, I suddenly see an advantage to having a 3D printer. Wouldn't that be just the ticket? I wonder if someone offers the use of one around here?
3D printer sounds like a perfect solution to part such as this. Don't have access to one yet but they are becoming cheaper and more available all the time.
Hoping that Brian's in-the-works positioner/skew controller makes the V/G-Boxes a thing of the past anyway.
I decided to put the sensor on the bench and hook up my DVOM and see what it will do. It is like having two switches, one at each end. But they seem to be somehow linked. I don't seem to be able to toggle only one end of the switch. I was hoping with some clever spacing and sizing of magnets we could double the count, still using the AJAK double count technique, getting twenty counts with ten magnets and their dual reed switch.
You could get there by putting 10 magnets on a larger circle.
That didn't appeal to me.
You could use the shaft encoder Linuxman and I talked about some years ago, and Pendragon used recently.
It didn't appeal to me 5 years ago, 'cause it needed power and wasn't a plug-in replacement.
I had also discounted optical sensors and hall-effect magnet sensors.
I didn't want something nobody else could use.
Today, I don't really care if it is attractive to the masses.
By all means think about the above ideas.
A fresh point of view is likely to discover something I missed.
I'm left with 20-some tiny super magnets and a tiny reed switch.
That'll work for anybody. No new technology
The question I never got the answer to, is how many magnets and what radius gives the most reliable count?
(given the size limitation of the existing disc, of course)
Well I've torn down the AJAK and ordered some parts for a new sensor. I'm getting some switches that operate at different values. I need to get a hole saw for the fiberboard and start cutting my wheels. I measured the current involved in the sensor circuit from a VBox X 10.75 volts DC at 1.5ma, not much there. Don't have to worry about over powering a reed switch
I cut some wheels and a cover plate to hold the switch.
Next up, mark and drill holes for the magnets. Lots of testing in that dept.
Next up, mark and drill holes for the magnets. Lots of testing in that dept.
Paint it
I strongly like Hammerite, and have used Rust-o-leum as a second choice.
But regardless, I really refuse to go without Rust Destroyer as a 2-coat primer!
It's not even expensive.
My environment doesn't compare to tropical or Gulf coastal locations.
So my opinion may be wrong, but it's the one I came to!
By the way, I just brush off loose rust with a wire wheel .
Then apply primer over whatever remains.
.
Sorry for the delay in commenting.
I strongly like Hammerite, and have used Rust-o-leum as a second choice.
But regardless, I really refuse to go without Rust Destroyer as a 2-coat primer!
It's not even expensive.
My environment doesn't compare to tropical or Gulf coastal locations.
So my opinion may be wrong, but it's the one I came to!
By the way, I just brush off loose rust with a wire wheel .
Then apply primer over whatever remains.
Anole said:
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have not used any metal paint since moving out west 10+ years ago.Sorry for the delay in commenting. cool
I strongly like Hammerite, and have used Rust-o-leum as a second choice.
But regardless, I really refuse to go without Rust Destroyer as a 2-coat primer!
It's not even expensive.
My environment doesn't compare to tropical or Gulf coastal locations.
So my opinion may be wrong, but it's the one I came to!
By the way, I just brush off loose rust with a wire wheel .
Then apply primer over whatever remains.
.
but tried stopping rust on cars for 30+ years back east and nothing worked till por 15 started with a little 4oz can on a panel that was growing weekly it was big enough for both hands to get into on the top of a quarter panel just used wire brush on it 3 minutes tops painted and it stopped kept the car for 3 more years. could not believe it. did not use half of the paint on it.
that and another test by a guy i knew who restored classic cars and he started using it on everything he worked on. cost $$$ but it works
Sounds like neither of us live where the paints are put to the test! :up
Wish I'd had these to try as a kid growing up in Florida.
When I recently started looking, there was another product recommended to me: Loctite Extend.
I began by examining Extend, but as research progressed, I felt there were better solutions.
It goes on clear , and turns black when it reacts with rust.
You need two primer coats and then later a final color top coat, for best performance.
Bought a can, but never used it.
I mention it in case readers might want another option to try.
Wish I'd had these to try as a kid growing up in Florida.
When I recently started looking, there was another product recommended to me: Loctite Extend.
I began by examining Extend, but as research progressed, I felt there were better solutions.
It goes on clear , and turns black when it reacts with rust.
You need two primer coats and then later a final color top coat, for best performance.
Bought a can, but never used it.
I mention it in case readers might want another option to try.
Extend was garbage tried it back there before por 15
por 15 needs a top coat to look nice but works fine without but looks bad never put a top coat on that quarter panel
but have a fence to paint here and only want to do it once and will use por 15.Sounds like neither of us live where the paints are put to the test! :up
Wish I'd had these to try as a kid growing up in Florida.
with a top coat done by the wife. lol
would use it on a dish part too,but out here rust is low, save if it's in a yard that has a sprinkler system hitting it a few times a day then yuk turned those down
Unfortunately I blew my budget on this dish with sensor development. I chose function over form. Rust isn't really a concern here, so the dish will receive no more than primer and color on the mount. Havn't seen "Hammertite" around here and the Rustoleum Hammered finishes are twice the price and just doesn't do a thing for me . So one can of primer and one can of black $8 total. Hopefully my reved up sensor won't blow the dyno!
. So one can of primer and one can of black $8 total. Hopefully my reved up sensor won't blow the dyno!
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