Look up the term "analysis paralysis" and see if that fits here.
Is that kinda like "Take a sh*t or get off the pot?"
Look up the term "analysis paralysis" and see if that fits here.
Yes, please give us full details. Do you have a ku dish that you can use?(That is not being used by your Dad for pay TV) Will your Dad allow you to mount and run cables to your TV? Which receiver did you say you had?
Do you have proper coax? etc? What about your living situation? In an apartment or in the country with acres of land that your Dad owns?
Posting threads saying you want to get into something and then saying ...but never mind I can't or won't...for whatever reason... People are going to think you are trolling.
Especially when you guess at how things work or stretch the truth on things, and post as facts!
You are young and have a lot to learn and we know that and understand. We were all young once, and at some point in life were in the same spot as you...Not really knowing much about this but wanted to learn.
If you too want to learn, help us to help you?
....and after testing it and getting just 60% signal strength plus numerous other problems, I believe it. As of right now I'm saving up for the Amiko Mini HD265.
Is that kinda like "Take a sh*t or get off the pot?"
A 60% signal strength is baseline. It means that your not aimed at a satellite. You can get a 60% reading by aiming at the ground. Pick yourself up one of the cheapie $10 to $20 satellite meters so you know that your on a satellite and then make sure your LNB is set up right. I.E. 10750 Ghz for a standard linear LNB or if you have a universal LNB then use that setting and once you are on a satellite do a blind scan and see what you get. Through a process of trial and error as well as by looking at the satellite charts you'll be able to determine which one your currently aimed at and then go from there. Without any kind of a meter [and the built in ones in the receiver pretty much suck] you can be out there moving the dish around for hours getting frustrated and never being on a satellite.
The easy peasy way to do it with one of those meters is just turn up the gain enough to move the needed about one third of a way up the scale and then raise the elevation up/down to peak the meter that way you'll know the elevation is close and then move the dish east/west until you get a max level. And then when you max it move the gain on the meter back again to mid scale and then start with the slow tiny movements up/down, left/right and you'll be on a satellite soon enough. Then you just snug down the bolts enough so it doesn't move and then try a blind scan to see what you get and go from there. My very first time about 15 years ago I tried on KU with a dish, receiver and TV and gave up after several hours. I had a local charlie/dave installer stop by with a meter and he had me locked on a satellite in two minutes with a meter.
Bottom line IMO you need a meter even if it's a bargain basement one to at least get you on a satellite.
Can't remember what LNBF it is but I'll check when I get home laterSounds like you are all set to get 125, 103, or 97 west just to get started but tell us what kind of LNBF you have. Your approximate location would be nice too.
A 60% signal strength is baseline. It means that your not aimed at a satellite. You can get a 60% reading by aiming at the ground. Pick yourself up one of the cheapie $10 to $20 satellite meters so you know that your on a satellite and then make sure your LNB is set up right. I.E. 10750 Ghz for a standard linear LNB or if you have a universal LNB then use that setting and once you are on a satellite do a blind scan and see what you get. Through a process of trial and error as well as by looking at the satellite charts you'll be able to determine which one your currently aimed at and then go from there. Without any kind of a meter [and the built in ones in the receiver pretty much suck] you can be out there moving the dish around for hours getting frustrated and never being on a satellite.
The easy peasy way to do it with one of those meters is just turn up the gain enough to move the needed about one third of a way up the scale and then raise the elevation up/down to peak the meter that way you'll know the elevation is close and then move the dish east/west until you get a max level. And then when you max it move the gain on the meter back again to mid scale and then start with the slow tiny movements up/down, left/right and you'll be on a satellite soon enough. Then you just snug down the bolts enough so it doesn't move and then try a blind scan to see what you get and go from there. My very first time about 15 years ago I tried on KU with a dish, receiver and TV and gave up after several hours. I had a local charlie/dave installer stop by with a meter and he had me locked on a satellite in two minutes with a meter.
Bottom line IMO you need a meter even if it's a bargain basement one to at least get you on a satellite.
the brand does not really matter, but the type does matter to some degree. Stay away from RG-59, and use RG-6. Preferably quad-shielded. If the run is somewhat long (more than 50 feet), it's better to use solid-copper core rather than CCS (Copper-clad steel). If you're not sure, check with a magnet.What brands of coaxial do you guys recommend for this?
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I'm not trying to troll anyone. I'm legitimately having problems installing my Ku dish mainly due to stuff in the way and receiver issues. Because of those receiver issues, I need to wait ages before I'll even be able to shell out $100 on a half decent receiver. So am I trolling now?
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that should be fine, as long as you set the receiver to use a universal LNB (9750/10600 with 22 kHz tone set to Auto), otherwise you'd be scanning the lower band which is almost unused in North America.Also, I have the Star Com SR-3602 Mini for my LNB. Is it good or do I need a new one?
Input: 10.70-11.70 GHz, 11.70 GHz-12.75 GHz
Output: 950-1950 MHz, 1100-2150 MHz
LO: 9.75/10.6 GHz
Noise Figure: 0.1 dB
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