The Offical battery 4Dtv replacement thread

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lonewolf85

lonewolf85

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Oct 21, 2007
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Ok guys I am makeing a new years resolution to replace the batteries in my 4Dtv receivers.But I am haveing trouble decideing what battery to use as a replacement. I whould just use the TL-5995P as suggested here DSR-920 Battery Replacement Instructions But that battery is no longer available through mouser electronics and I can,t find it any where else either.This http://store.batteryspecialists.com/ls14250axial.html is one that I am considering but I am not
sure. I know that some of you have already replaced your battery if you could tell me what battery you used and where to find it I whould sure appreciate it. Thanks Lonewolf
 
lonewolf85 said:
Thanks for thie info. I don't thank that I want to try to replace the battery with the AC power on though. this Tadiran TL5101/P 1/2 AA MBU 9.5 Ah 3.6 Lithium Battery with Axial Leads is another battery I am considering.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't do it with the power on. I don't know if this applies to the 4DTV's but in the VC-2 you can actually disconnect the batt leads for a very brief period and you will not loose the ID keys. I just proved that with a VCRS a couple weeks ago. Since the digicipher is old technology by GI I think there are similarities in the two. From what I understand the ID and unique seed keys are loaded to a chip from Ram memory which is powered by either the power supply or the lithium battery. I would also have to guess that there is a bit of buffer time disconnected from the battery and PS as long as the electrolytic caps still are holding a charge. Just my theory :eureka
 
I've done some experiments with the VCII modules and an old 920 concerning how long the circuit for the unit ID will hold voltage. On the various type of VCII modules, the circuit would hold voltage for over an hour with it slowly bleeding off. There is a nice tantalum capacitor in the circuit holding the voltage up. However, the 920 is another story. Once the battery is removed from the circuit, you have less than 2 seconds till the voltage is zero. The only capacitor in that circuit is a smd type, obviously put there as a surge dampener/voltage stabilizer, not to hold voltage for any length of time. In my humble opinion, if you're going to change out the battery in a 920, don't completely disconnect the old battery first unless you have really, really fast hands. Good luck.
 
Hermitman said:
I've done some experiments with the VCII modules and an old 920 concerning how long the circuit for the unit ID will hold voltage. On the various type of VCII modules, the circuit would hold voltage for over an hour with it slowly bleeding off. There is a nice tantalum capacitor in the circuit holding the voltage up. However, the 920 is another story. Once the battery is removed from the circuit, you have less than 2 seconds till the voltage is zero. The only capacitor in that circuit is a smd type, obviously put there as a surge dampener/voltage stabilizer, not to hold voltage for any length of time. In my humble opinion, if you're going to change out the battery in a 920, don't completely disconnect the old battery first unless you have really, really fast hands. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Interesting looks like they really want the 4D's to die. Wonder if one could add an electrolytic or tantalum as a reserve before doing a swap out. Would be nice to get a print. If I saw one I'm sure I could figure something out. If I had a 920 with a bad ID that I could experiment with, I would try to reverse engineer that circuit and see where some backup cap could be added. I only have my 922 and it's not quite 3 years old so I don't want to mess with it yet. Anyone out there with a good electronic background and a 920 or 922 that's lost it's ID could try experimenting and post some results.
 
Actually, it would be easy if you're so inclined. The battery is on a separate circuit board and connects to the main board with some bare wire jumpers. It was easy to trace the voltage from the battery to the main board. A capacitor could be installed on the jumper wires.
 
Hermitman said:
Actually, it would be easy if you're so inclined. The battery is on a separate circuit board and connects to the main board with some bare wire jumpers. It was easy to trace the voltage from the battery to the main board. A capacitor could be installed on the jumper wires.
Click to expand...

Could be a smart thing for one to do if there going to change the battery to insure no problems while changing. May be what ATS does.
 
I was thinking of using 2 batteries - one with 'gator clips to temp in place while you remove the original and solder in the permanent... seem to be easiest and least destructive method...
 
for the stuff I've ordered, Digi-Key was really good at shipping. Thanks for the link too, I'll be ordering replacements too (got a 922 and a 920 that's gonna go on fleabay ;-)
 
My batteries have arrived

My batteries arrived today now for the fun part. Replacing the batteries in the 920's here is a pic of them thay where made in Feb of 08 so that is good news.
 

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Probably a dumb question....

Why couldn't you go to Rat Shack and get a couple of two AA or AAA battery holders. Hook them up in parallel. That would give you about 3V from each one. If they ever ran down you could replace two of the four batteries while the other two kept the circuit alive.
So it would be two batteries (per holder) in series equaling 3V and two holders in parallel equaling 3V.
 
Does the battery get charged while the 4D is plugged in?

I was thinking more of the convenience of changing the battery(s) than the longevity
 
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