SWM Setup with Amplifiers

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I actually did look at the SWM 13, but texasbrit is right, I couldn't even figure out how to get my hands on one.

For now I'm going to try the mid leg amps and see how it works.

As my system expands I may have to look at other more complex options. Thank y'all all so much for your input. The help I have received on this forum has been invaluable!
 
Actually, just to try to sort out the confusion.
There are (unfortunately!) two "SWM13" devices. The DSWM13 that Claude mentions is a multiswitch, designed for hotel installations where the cabling is "loop thru" rather than "hub and spoke" like residential cabling systems, and reduces the need for in-line amplification. The DSWM has a higher output than regular multiswitches, don't know how much higher though, no-one seems to have the specs, and that means it is capable of driving longer distances. You need to use taps to reduce the signal levels to the receivers, particularly those closest to the DSWM13, so would be useful in the OPs type of installation. But it's not available except for hotel installations.
The SWM13 (not the DSWM13) is not a multiswitch, it's a 13-channel SWM LNB that goes at the dish. But it has the same output level as the other residential LNBs and multiswitches, so does not help you if you are trying to drive longer distances, particularly with multidrop configs like the OPs. The SWM13 is only available at the moment in certain test markets, but even if it was available, it would not help the OPs situation. It would actually make things worse, because the device is at the dish so you would have to add the additional signal loss on the cable from the dish to the house, which using the SWM16 avoids.

So given that the "perfect" solution might be to use a DSWM13 with taps, but that not being available(and even if it were it would most likely be expensive), and since the OP already has an SWM16 and splitters, the obvious solution is to add the SWM amplifier. Not too close to the SWM16 (to avoid signals that are too "hot" for the first couple of receivers).
Note that since we don't know what the maximum recommended signal strength is for the receivers, putting the amp at the SWM16 might be OK. You could also put it there if you used taps instead of splitters for the first three or so receivers. But unless there's a big problem we don't know about, using the amp after the first two or three splitters looks like the best current solution.

It might be that at some point the DSWM13 switches begin to filter onto the market (eBay etc) in which case the OP could always use that plus taps to rearchitect the configuration. But it simply might not be worth it.
 
thanks for the info!

I may keep my eye out for a DSWM13 as I expand. Just FYI, this is basically 1 iteration of my setup. I actually have 5 total rows, but each set of two is setup like this with the 5th one just using a swm 8.

One quick question. When we talk about the signal being "hot" does this mean the receiver won't be able to make sense of the signal, or I could actually do permanent damage to the receiver? Also, where can I find the ratings for the high and low single levels for my boxes? I have only D12s, H24s, and H25s.
 
The only other way to do this would be to run a seperate line from each receiver back to one central switch.

The issue is every time you split your loosing signal and thats why there is an issue at the receivers furthest from the switch.

Sonora amplifier may work, but I would rather use a Digital SWM if you just want to daisy chain like you have been doing. They are about $150.

What if you did this. Run a line off of the SWM 16 and split off 4 receivers, and then run an express line off the SWM 16 to do the second set of 4 receivers?
 
Claude....I could do that, but I really like everything being linear. It makes it easier for my employees to understand what's going on and cuts down on my cables lengths.

If the amp doesn't work, I may have to reconfigure.
 
Yes, we went through these options at the time of the original post.
The basic question is - will the existing config work with the $35 amp? Think the answer is yes, there's no reason why it shouldn't.

Also Claude - there are no DSWM13 s for sale at the moment

....you would have to find a hotel system installer willing to "break the rules" and sell you one. And DirecTv's internal systems won't support a regular residential customer with one, they can't even enter it into their systems.
 
thanks for the info!

I may keep my eye out for a DSWM13 as I expand. Just FYI, this is basically 1 iteration of my setup. I actually have 5 total rows, but each set of two is setup like this with the 5th one just using a swm 8.

One quick question. When we talk about the signal being "hot" does this mean the receiver won't be able to make sense of the signal, or I could actually do permanent damage to the receiver? Also, where can I find the ratings for the high and low single levels for my boxes? I have only D12s, H24s, and H25s.

I don't think anyone knows wha the max input signal is, or how the receiver would behave if you exceed that signal. Those ratings are not available. Previous posts tell you what the minimum signal level is but that's only a nominal figure. Some receivers might (probably will) accept a lower signal and still work, but it's probably going to be frequency dependent and might easily vary from sample to sample.
 
Max signal is in the training material... I'm digging through my system to see if I still have the docs, but I'm almost certain too hot is somewhere in the neighborhood of 24-28dBm at the IRD.
 
Max signal is in the training material... I'm digging through my system to see if I still have the docs, but I'm almost certain too hot is somewhere in the neighborhood of 24-28dBm at the IRD.
Don't think it can be that low. The output from the AGC on the SWM16 has been measured at anything between -25 to -30dBm and I would have thought it unlikely that would overload the receiver...
 
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Don't think it can be that low. The output from the AGC on the SWM16 has been measured at anything between -25 to -30dBm and I would have thought it unlikely that would overload the receiver...

I agree, and I don't believe that it is the cause of the issue outlined in this topic, although he did ask. On a side note, I've been getting some super-hot SWM LNBs lately (and a couple non-swm SL5s). I had one SWM3 that gave me -20 dBm on 101 a few days ago.
 
Of course he has a non-SWM LNB, so any variation in the output from the LNB would be cancelled out by the AGC in the SWM16.
I'm told that the spec on the Broadcom chip in the receivers is max input -20dBm (and that's probably conservative) so two receiver splits would certainly attenuate the signal enough to avoid overload.
 
Yes, it appeared a couple of days ago. But that's the "wrong" SWM13, it's an LNB which has the same output signals as the regular SWM LNBs. Claude was talking about the DSWM13 MULTISWITCH, which has "hot" outputs......
 
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Yes, we went through these options at the time of the original post.
The basic question is - will the existing config work with the $35 amp? Think the answer is yes, there's no reason why it shouldn't.

Also Claude - there are no DSWM13 s for sale at the moment

....you would have to find a hotel system installer willing to "break the rules" and sell you one. And DirecTv's internal systems won't support a regular residential customer with one, they can't even enter it into their systems.

I have one sitting on my desk. For $140 it's yours :)
 
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