spot for a cheap, new dish?

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Make new arms from conduit. For a BSC621 to perform well, Scalar / Feed MUST be installed Correctly / Precise.
Quoted For Truth

Take the BSC-621.
When installing, Not only must you center the C-Band throat, you'll need to measure to the back of the BSC-621 and center the Ku end.
Failure to do so results in the oft'-reported poor-to-non-existant Ku-band reception.

For focal-length, I peaked on C then switched to Ku and had to push it toward the dish about a quarter inch to get Ku peaked.
C-band was already in the 90%Q (coolsat 5000) and dropped to 87% while Ku jumped from 66-69% to a solid 72%Q
I was initially peaking on 123°W C-JLTV KU-Equity/RTN at the time (Oct. 2008)
Swung over to 97°W and BYU was 72% and MHz Worldwide was 72%

After re-straightening my LNB arm, I can say the BSC-621 Ku-side works respectably on my 8.5 foot solid dish.
 
Make new arms from conduit. For a BSC621 to perform well, Scalar / Feed MUST be installed Correctly / Precise.

replace the arms, replace the reeds, hammer the dents out, yata yata yata.

Im not turning this into something from the red green show

the dish is coming down in a half hour and is going to be tunred into pop cans, il redo the h-h
 
the dish is now dismantled.

after i cut it up and got to the support arms, i noticed the cband lnb was 1/2 from the feedhorn and only being held by one bolt, but i am sure this was done by all the hammering on the dish.

this is what burns my ass.... i hook a spare 24" acuator up to my drake, then i no longer get the acautor error, but when i took apart the motor drive off the h-h, took it apart, cleaned it, and brought it inside, hook it up, i still get acautor error

the reed switches dont play a part in this, they just cut power when the dish maxes on east or west, to prevent damage

so, i cant figure out what could be broke on the pulse wheel, only thing it is is 4 or 6 magnets with a little wire thing inside the lid, so what is burn up? could i have ruined it by crossing m1 with pulse???

i am also looking for a cover for the h-h

also, i took the assembly off the h-h, where the motor, wire connection plate, and gear sits, i applied power to the motor, now this wont mess up the pulse wheel being off?? it isnt aligned with the rest is it?

so what is the wire thing inside the lid, i think its called a pusle counter? can they go bad an does anyone have a spare from an ajak h-h?

thanks

here is a picture, wich i made smaller to not anger iceberg

fvzvp.jpg


i get paid next friday, so i should have my new dish by then

but again, what is a pulse counter im electronic savvy, but this is odd stuff to me
 
There's this new satellite company....Skyvu INC, I think they sell C-band dish kits. I sure hope this one comes with good assembly instructions!!! BWAHAHAAA!!:eek: :yikes :haha
 

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i have part h and skyvision want 30 for a new one, but what exaclty is that small part on the lid? i might be able to get one and fix it myself
 
There's this new satellite company....Skyvu INC, I think they sell C-band dish kits. I sure hope this one comes with good assembly instructions!!! BWAHAHAAA!!:eek: :yikes :haha

That is some funny stuff right there. Made me forget all about my "problems". You sir are a stimlus package.
 

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this is what burns my ass.... i hook a spare 24" acuator up to my drake, then i no longer get the acautor error, but when i took apart the motor drive off the h-h, took it apart, cleaned it, and brought it inside, hook it up, i still get acautor error

the reed switches dont play a part in this, they just cut power when the dish maxes on east or west, to prevent damage

so, i cant figure out what could be broke on the pulse wheel, only thing it is is 4 or 6 magnets with a little wire thing inside the lid, so what is burn up? could i have ruined it by crossing m1 with pulse???


also, i took the assembly off the h-h, where the motor, wire connection plate, and gear sits, i applied power to the motor, now this wont mess up the pulse wheel being off?? it isnt aligned with the rest is it?

so what is the wire thing inside the lid, i think its called a pusle counter? can they go bad an does anyone have a spare from an ajak h-h?

thanks



but again, what is a pulse counter im electronic savvy, but this is odd stuff to me
Just for giggles replace the reed switch.....it's a.....pulse counter.....:eek:
 
no the thing that sits on top of those magnets

Tech..the thing that sits on top of the magnets is most likely a reed switch...it's a pulse counter. If you connected motor voltage to it it's fried. For Pete's sake please get a new one and change it out...your positioner will then be operational....
 
yeah skyvsion wants 30 clams for a new one

does radio shack sell them or can i make one?
 
meh its just a dish, i only gave $8 for it, so its not a big loss.

I did some research..

the switches on the end of the mount are limiter switches, they shut current to the motor, when the dish peaks east or west to prevent damage

i thought it was a reed switch due ito it being reed shaped

but thats the switch that closes when a magentic field is borught to it.

Skyvision wants 30 dollars for one


on a eletronics supplier i can get a reed switch for $3 but will any switch do, or do i need one specific??

this is the one
08642-02-M.jpg


also (please answer) i move the motor with power, while the motor drive was off the mount, will this mess up counting of the magnets?
 
while the motor drive was off the mount, will this mess up counting of the magnets?
Nope.

It's technically called a Reed Sensor. It "senses" the magnets passing as the motor turns.
Post a Pic of your sensor.
 
i cant, when i took the glue off of it it broke
but mine is h in this picture
1011002.jpg


oh and fyi a reed switch is a switch a reed sensor is built using are reed switch
 
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