Signal Splitter

[Babadem]

Basically any time there is a chance of DC from one receiver getting into the electronics of the 2nd receiver or interacting with the DC of the 2nd receiver.
When I first started doing digital, I don't remember them selling those power pass splitters (although they probably did), so to slave a digital receiver off an analog receiver I just used a regular TV style splitter, which passed DC on all ports. So to separate the power, I'd buy DC blocks from RS and put them on the digital receivers, and let the power from the analog go through to the LNB. Re WHERE, it's mainly just "between" receivers, but you do have to make sure that you aren't blocking DC from the master receiver to the LNB, and you don't want to block DC from any receiver to a switch, because switches require power.

I used to have a setup whereby I had an analog receiver sending DC to the C-band and Ku-band LNBs, each through a plain splitter. The other port on each splitter I had going to each of the 2 inputs of a tone burst A/B diseqC switch. The main port on the switch went to my DVB receiver. I couldn't put the DC blocks between the DVB receiver and the switch, because then the switch wouldn't work, so I had to put the DC-blocks between the switch and each splitter. Now, I accomplish the same thing using a power pass splitter, using the power pass leg on the analog receiver. BTW, for some reason, I wasn't able to do the same thing using a 22KHz switch because for some reason, it seems like most 22KHz switches are of rather poor quality, and they allow signal from both ports to leak through to the DVB receiver. Problem was, that when selecting between two LNBs powered all the time via an analog receiver, the power is always on, and signal is always coming in through both legs, whereas if you just connect a 22KHz switch directly to LNBs, then the LNBs only get power when they are selected, so there is no interferrence from the other leg. I wish I could find the old high quality switches like I used to use, but I've read similar things from other people, saying that there is poor isolation between the ports of most or many of the switches sold today. But I guess that's to be expected... my first switch probably cost me something in the $20-30 range, while now those things are down in the $3-$5 range, so they all seem to be CHEAPly made.

Anyway, I have a bunch of DC-blocks laying around, so I just always use them between receivers any time I have more than one receiver running off the same signal, and sometimes I've had as many as 4 or 5 receivers using the same signal via splitters and pass-thrus, so I've sometimes had 3 or 4 DC blocks on one signal.

Thanks for the explanation B.J. Based on the above, I should then have a DC block between my AZBox Elite looput and the DVB World 2104D USB "LNB Input" to prevent electronic damage to my setup?

 

[B.J.]

Thanks for the explanation B.J. Based on the above, I should then have a DC block between my AZBox Elite looput and the DVB World 2104D USB "LNB Input" to prevent electronic damage to my setup?

There MAY be no danger of damage, depending on how the receivers are designed, however with some receivers there is the potential, and not knowing, I just figure it's worth the extra protection to put the DC blocks in there. Other people take the risk and don't use them. If I noticed any significant loss of signal, I might take the risk of leaving them out, but I've never really noticed any difference.

 

[Keystone7]

DiSEqC Switch Question

Hello,

Last few days I have been doing upgrade work to my system. I bought a multiswitch for the house and laid another cable to my house. Here comes the question!

I have a stationary 36" for 83w with single Lnb.
I ran the RG6 cable over to the DiSEqC switch and put it on Lnb 1.

I have a 36" with a motor using a new dual Geosat SL2. ONE lnb 18V is going on the DiSEqC switch on Lnb4. I have the SECOND Lnb going to the house hooking up to the multiswitch 13V. The DiSEqC switch in on front side of the motor.
In the house I connected the other cable from the DiSEqC to the 18V side of the multiswitch.

All cables are good and connectors good.
Need to know if I have cables and switches hooked up the right way. I use three recievers and sometimes one does not recieve as good as others. I am not using any inline amps. I have been searching for photos, but no go ones yet. Did see that maybe need another DiSEqC at the dish?

Any imput would be nice. I feel that I am so close to being done!

 

[SatelliteAV]

Gary, you PMed this same information, but your account is not configured to receive replies. More learning potential to exchange suggestions in an open thread anyways.....

My suggestions.... Forget the DiSEqQ switch and single output LNBF on the fixed dish. Forget about DC blocking.

1. Dual output LNBF on both dishes.
2. 4x4 multi-switch to provide independent selection the satellite and polarity for each receiver.
3. Select one receiver for the master to control the motor. Use a high frequency 2x1 all power port passing splitter to run one coax directly to the motor and the 2nd coax to the 4x4.
4. Connect the 2 dual output LNBFs and the other 2 slaved receivers to the 4x4 switch.

The master receiver will control which satellite is available on the motorized dish for all receivers. Each receiver will be able to independently select either the fixed satellite or any available channel from the satellite chosen by the master receiver.

Sorry, on the iPhone today, so no schematic diagrams. Good luck on your project!

 

[Keystone7]

Gary, you PMed this same information, but your account is not configured to receive replies. More learning potential to exchange suggestions in an open thread anyways.....

My suggestions.... Forget the DiSEqQ switch and single output LNBF on the fixed dish. Forget about DC blocking.

1. Dual output LNBF on both dishes.
2. 4x4 multi-switch to provide independent selection the satellite and polarity for each receiver.
3. Select one receiver for the master to control the motor. Use a high frequency 2x1 all power port passing splitter to run one coax directly to the motor and the 2nd coax to the 4x4.
4. Connect the 2 dual output LNBFs and the other 2 slaved receivers to the 4x4 switch.

The master receiver will control which satellite is available on the motorized dish for all receivers. Each receiver will be able to independently select either the fixed satellite or any available channel from the satellite chosen by the master receiver.

Sorry, on the iPhone today, so no schematic diagrams. Good luck on your project!

Thanks for getting back to me. Sorry about the Pmed. Got some learning to do. I will take this all in,thanks again!

 

[Keystone7]

Thanks for getting back to me. Sorry about the Pmed. Got some learning to do. I will take this all in,thanks again!

In reading post, will I still have only two cables running from the main dish to the house? Will the 4x4 switch be located at the dish with the motor and use my multiswitch in the house? Thanks again!!!

 

[SatelliteAV]

In reading post, will I still have only two cables running from the main dish to the house? Will the 4x4 switch be located at the dish with the motor and use my multiswitch in the house? Thanks again!!!

If you have the 4x4 switch at the dishes you will need 4 lines (3 for receiver to switch connections and one for motor control) or 5 lines if the 4x4 is located inside (4 lines for the two dual output LNBFs and 1 line for motor control). This solution uses 2 dual output LNBFs, 1 - 4x4 multi-switch and 1 - 2x1 all port power passing splitter (no other multi-switch is used).

The only way to configure your system with 2 lines to independently select the fixed and slaved motorized dish would to use two bandstacked LNBFs and a 22KHz switch inside feeding 3 receivers with a 3x1 one port power passing splitter. This configuration might be problematic depending on the 22KHz switch model choice and non-standard LNBF, switch and slaving configurations.

 

[Keystone7]

If you have the 4x4 switch at the dishes you will need 4 lines (3 for receiver to switch connections and one for motor control) or 5 lines if the 4x4 is located inside (4 lines for the two dual output LNBFs and 1 line for motor control). This solution uses 2 dual output LNBFs, 1 - 4x4 multi-switch and 1 - 2x1 all port power passing splitter (no other multi-switch is used).

The only way to configure your system with 2 lines to independently select the fixed and slaved motorized dish would to use two bandstacked LNBFs and a 22KHz switch inside feeding 3 receivers with a 3x1 one port power passing splitter. This configuration might be problematic depending on the 22KHz switch model choice and non-standard LNBF, switch and slaving configurations.

Brian, I really thank you for taking your time on Sunday to help me. It means alot! I'll put all this toghter now and decide how I am going to do this. Thanks!!!

 

[tanka]

6way splitters

my setup I use good quality four way splitters single port power passig pv23408 now I need to exange that two splitters for two six way splitters single port power passing I like to no if ites possibel find the splittrs in Canada ontario if I order from usa cust almost the same shipping plus taxes dont save.Did you no a store in toronto area sold good quality splitters.Tankyou

 

[Keystone7]

If you have the 4x4 switch at the dishes you will need 4 lines (3 for receiver to switch connections and one for motor control) or 5 lines if the 4x4 is located inside (4 lines for the two dual output LNBFs and 1 line for motor control). This solution uses 2 dual output LNBFs, 1 - 4x4 multi-switch and 1 - 2x1 all port power passing splitter (no other multi-switch is used).

The only way to configure your system with 2 lines to independently select the fixed and slaved motorized dish would to use two bandstacked LNBFs and a 22KHz switch inside feeding 3 receivers with a 3x1 one port power passing splitter. This configuration might be problematic depending on the 22KHz switch model choice and non-standard LNBF, switch and slaving configurations.

Brian,

Thanks again for you feedback!

 

[SatelliteAV]

Brian,

Thanks again for you feedback!

No problem.... Hope it helps! I attached a sketch that might help your wiring.

1. Dual output LNBF on both dishes.
2. 4x4 multi-switch to provide independent selection the satellite and polarity for each receiver.
3. Select one receiver for the master to control the motor. Use a high frequency 2x1 all power port passing splitter to run one coax directly to the motor and the 2nd coax to the 4x4.
4. Connect the 2 dual output LNBFs and the other slaved receivers to the 4x4 switch.

Note: Motor positioning can be shared between multiple receivers, but it can become extremely confusing and I do not suggest for the faint of heart!!! To share control of the motor with several receivers, make sure to use the USALS mode as DiSEqC 1.2 motor control will be either difficult or impossible (depending on the receiver brands and models) to coordinate the same motor positioner number assignments between multiple receivers.

 

[Keystone7]

No problem.... Hope it helps! I attached a sketch that might help your wiring.

1. Dual output LNBF on both dishes.
2. 4x4 multi-switch to provide independent selection the satellite and polarity for each receiver.
3. Select one receiver for the master to control the motor. Use a high frequency 2x1 all power port passing splitter to run one coax directly to the motor and the 2nd coax to the 4x4.
4. Connect the 2 dual output LNBFs and the other slaved receivers to the 4x4 switch.

Note: Motor positioning can be shared between multiple receivers, but it can become extremely confusing and I do not suggest for the faint of heart!!! To share control of the motor with several receivers, make sure to use the USALS mode as DiSEqC 1.2 motor control will be either difficult or impossible (depending on the receiver brands and models) to coordinate the same motor positioner number assignments between multiple receivers.

THanks Brian, You have been a great help!

 

[Keystone7]

Parts Orderd

Brian,

I am going to try your idea. I already went on your site and placed my order for another GEOSATpro SL-2 Bullet Lnbf and the 4X4 Ecoda multiswitch. Hope I will have them by the end of the week. That should give me time to lay down 3 more cables. Did I tell you they are 180Ft each! I already have 2 down now. Glad I bought 1000Ft of rg6 the other day. Thanks, again and I will keep you posted after I get things ready.
The other GEOSATpro I bought is working great. I already have a new 3Ghz 2X1 all power port passing splitter to use. Thanks...............

 

[SatelliteAV]

Brian,

I am going to try your idea. I already went on your site and placed my order for another GEOSATpro SL-2 Bullet Lnbf and the 4X4 Ecoda multiswitch. Hope I will have them by the end of the week. That should give me time to lay down 3 more cables. Did I tell you they are 180Ft each! I already have 2 down now. Glad I bought 1000Ft of rg6 the other day. Thanks, again and I will keep you posted after I get things ready.
The other GEOSATpro I bought is working great. I already have a new 3Ghz 2X1 all power port passing splitter to use. Thanks...............

Thank you for your order. I participate on the forum as this is my hobby, but it is great when we also can do business!

You only need to have one coax line for each receiver (3 receivers = 3 lines) if you place the splitter and 4x4 multi-switch near the dishes. Place the splitter and 4x4 inside and you will need to run 5 lines. The switch will operate fine in either configuration, but you will need to protect the switches from the weather.

 

[Keystone7]

Thank you for your order. I participate on the forum as this is my hobby, but it is great when we also can do business!

You only need to have one coax line for each receiver (3 receivers = 3 lines) if you place the splitter and 4x4 multi-switch near the dishes. Place the splitter and 4x4 inside and you will need to run 5 lines. The switch will operate fine in either configuration, but you will need to protect the switches from the weather.

Brian,

Looks like I will be laying down five cables. I noticed that on the motor you will not place a cable on the LNB side on the motor. Is that right? Your pictures show the lnbf both cables returning back to the house to the 4x4 switch. Let me know if I'm thinking right. Should start laying cables tomorrow night after work if weather is good.That power cable that goes to the motor dish gets connected to the (Reciever)? Thanks!

 

[SatelliteAV]

5 coax lines if the splitter and 4x4 are inside or 3 coax lines (one for each receiver) if the splitter and 4x4 are placed outside.

Nothing is connected to the motor's LNBF port. The motor is powered through one port of the splitter connected to the master receiver.

 

[Keystone7]

5 coax lines if the splitter and 4x4 are inside or 3 coax lines (one for each receiver) if the splitter and 4x4 are placed outside.

Nothing is connected to the motor's LNBF port. The motor is powered through one port of the splitter connected to the master receiver.

Brian,

Sounds great. I will lay down (5) cables since I have the cable at hand. I would rather have to many cables and not enough. I really appreciate all your help. Started the trench (180')work last night and will finish it tonight weather permitting. By the way, your photo says it all, better than words! Thanks!Will continue my work and will keep you posted.

 

[Keystone7]

5 coax lines if the splitter and 4x4 are inside or 3 coax lines (one for each receiver) if the splitter and 4x4 are placed outside.

Nothing is connected to the motor's LNBF port. The motor is powered through one port of the splitter connected to the master receiver.

Brian,

I received your splitter in the mail today. I still cannot get power to the dish motor. I have everything wired like the photo you provided. When I talked to you several days ago, that's when I ordered the splitter from you. The prior splitter I had from another place didn't have a (Diode Steered) in it. I used two separate coax lines when I tested your splitter. I can use a (canon) to join the motor and the receiver and all works great. have a green light at the motor and satellites are correct and dish moves. When I use the splitter, I can get great satellite quality but no green light at the motor. I can move the cables at the splitter around and same quality but still no signal to the motor. I guess I am at a stand still until I can figure out the splitter. Does the (Diode Steer) automatic or is there something else I need to do? I have tried several different settings on my receiver with the 22 switch, but can't pass a signal through the splitter for the motor.

While I was waiting for the splitter to arrive, I have enjoyed great satellite watching. Your SL2 Bullet LNB's are great. My quality before was moving 5 points up and down. Now I have a great steady signal and great quality. If I can figure out this splitter problem I will be set!

 

[SatelliteAV]

Hmmmm...... Sorry, I didn't realize that you ordered a 2x1 splitter from us. Thought that you were using your splitter. I just checked your account and see that you ordered on it on the internet.

The diode steering feature of the splitter provides voltage to flow from the output ports to the input port. Your installation is requiring the reverse flow, from the input port to the output ports. You need an all port power passing without diode steering or with input to output diode steering. You can confirm this by connecting your master receiver to the output and the motor to the input. The motor will move.....

I see that our site description neglected to indicate the direction of flow of the diode steering on the splitter! Not your fault!!! We have issued a complete refund for your purchase and apologize for the inconvenience. Please keep the splitter for a future project. Gratis SatelliteAV!!!

Glad that you like the performance on GEOSATpro SL2 Bullet LNBFs. In our development and continued testing, they blow every other KU band LNBF out of the water. Thank you for the Kudos!

 

[Keystone7]

Hmmmm...... Sorry, I didn't realize that you ordered a 2x1 splitter from us. Thought that you were using your splitter. I just checked your account and see that you ordered on it on the internet.

The diode steering feature of the splitter provides voltage to flow from the output ports to the input port. Your installation is requiring the reverse flow, from the input port to the output ports. You need an all port power passing without diode steering or with input to output diode steering. You can confirm this by connecting your master receiver to the output and the motor to the input. The motor will move.....

I see that our site description neglected to indicate the direction of flow of the diode steering on the splitter! Not your fault!!! We have issued a complete refund for your purchase and apologize for the inconvenience. Please keep the splitter for a future project. Gratis SatelliteAV!!!



Glad that you like the performance on GEOSATpro SL2 Bullet LNBFs. In our development and continued testing, they blow every other KU band LNBF out of the water. Thank you for the Kudos!

Brian,

First, I wanted to thank you for sticking with me on this project. Thanks for the splitter also! I dd comfirm the splitter using the master receiver to the output and motor to the input. It did move the dish to the correct satellite. Did not have any signal at all. You mentioned a splitter with all port power passing without diode and I tried that with same results. Do you sell a splitter with input to output diode steering? Don't seem to find any on the web? Any other ideas?