S-Video, component or rocker switch any time soon?

[SatelliteAV]

Here's a question I have. Unless I'm reading things wrong, this unit only seems to have 2 types of video outputs..HDMI and Composite.

I have 3 front projectors, a cpl of tvs, but not a single one of them have HDMI inputs. So why would I want to purchase a unit like this, if it can't be connected to any of my display devices except thru Composite?

Connecting any receiver to multiple viewing devices would require external distribution. You might consider using a HDMI to component adapter (along with a component distribution amp if connecting multiple displays) if they are only analog do not have digital inputs.

Ultimately, the decision to buy any product should primarily be based on if the item will fit on your needs.

Why buy a two seater convertible sports car if you have 3 kids and and live in the rain forest?

 

[highskies]

Connecting any receiver to multiple viewing devices would require external distribution. You might consider using a HDMI to component adapter (along with a component distribution amp if connecting multiple displays) if they are only analog do not have digital inputs.

Ultimately, the decision to buy any product should primarily be based on if the item will fit on your needs.

Why buy a two seater convertible sports car if you have 3 kids and and live in the rain forest?

Hopefully my post never came off as sarcastic, since none was intended. I'm actually interested in this receiver, but was mainly looking for a logical reason to purchase a unit like this, if none of my display devices worked with the outputs. This HDMI to component adapter, I take would be just as if the unit had RCA component
out? A cpl of my front projectors only do HD thru the same kind of connections found on crt monitors. I think they're called HD15. Do they also make HDMI to those type of connections?

 

[rdehaven]

A lot of projectors have DVI inputs. These are electrically the same as HDMI for video. DVI does not support audio. If your projectors have DVI then you just need to buy an inexpensive adapter to hook up the microHD. $5-10 is a reasonable guess for this type of adapter.

As you have noted, many projectors accept component input signals via a special cable that plugs into the VGA connector (HD15). If your projector does accept component AND DOES NOT have a DVI input, using the HDMI to component converter will work.

If your projectors only accept VGA inputs then you can purchase an HDMI to VGA adapter. I would expect these to be about the same $40-50 price range.

 

[tanka]

The box are only $125 and do good things for free to air.Butt same of us want more and more fine .Butt prepare to pay more it's simple.

 

[TvMind]

If we develop a STB model with larger case, I would consider adding additional support for analog outputs. The PCB investment has been made for the microHD, so probably won't expect see any hardware changes unless required.

I experience the moire interference pattern when using a/v breakout cable. I added RF chokes (toroid) to the a/v and dc input jack with much better results. I only use 480i, don't need HD now, only classic tv fan. Would be nice if the chroma/luma signals are accesible on the pcb to add s-video out. Also because the case is plastic and unshielded it cause rfi. I 'm thinking of spay coating the inside of the cover with conductive paint (forget what manufactureres call this stuff). Also the above mentioned interefence pattern is improved by selecting 720p in the tv system, not 480i which adds a ghost image...

I will look to add rca jacks breakout box so I could use higher quality cables than those flimsy ones supplied - video conductor is too small !

 

[rv1pop]

if you follow the development of this unit, it started out as a niche unit for RVs (Pun fully intended - a 12VDC unit to hide in a very small space in an RV.) When I asked about it, 5 years ago, Brian told me that a unit like that would be over $500, if it was a unit that he would have in his own home - otherwise HE would not sell it. He obviously kept it in his mind and came up with a small unit that would meet our needs.
HOWEVER, he asked for input to develop a unit that enough people would want, so it could sell enough to bring the price down. Over a period of several months (5?) this unit was spec'd on this website. Many features were added to make this THE BEST RECEIVER presently available to the hobbyist.

I do agree that RF challenges are evident. I have tried successfully ferrite beads, toroids, to reduce the rfi and also temp'd a copper window screen box in the cubby hole where the unit will go. With these, high power RF from HF, VHF and UHF ham transmitters have not seemed to bother the unit. The TV was wiped out a few times, but not through the receiver. My fan dipole ham antenna is only 3 feet above the cubby in my motor home

For break out, as you are asking, you sound like a DIY electronics person, so to build a custom box will probably be easy to do, and to really get what you want. Be sure to plan and use beads on all cables as you noted. I also added a short lead from screen room ground to the shell of my RG6 connector. That helped a BUNCH.

I also would like to see an internal header for the DIY to make it possible to add external modules / breakout boxes or for testing purposes, incorporated in a future production run. As Brian said, the investment in this PCB has been made...

And welcome to the forum. Thanks for investing in products from the colonies ;<) !!

 

[northgeorgia]

I don't really have anything to add, but since I saw the thread had been revived, I wanted to say that I have decided to unplug my unit from the power strip to turn it off (I would just flip the switch at the strip, but my alarm clock and TV is plugged in there too ). I used to just disconnect the power at the jack, but after seeing sparks fly a couple times with reconnecting it there -- I quickly decided that wasn't a good idea! Just out of curiosity, what's the setup of a dish like with RV'ers? Motorized or stationary? 1 meter, 90 cm, 75 cm? Tripod or other mount? How do you transport it about, put it inside the RV? Don't mean to hijack the thread, but it just sounds really cool to me

 

[rv1pop]

I don't really have anything to add, but since I saw the thread had been revived, I wanted to say that I have decided to unplug my unit from the power strip to turn it off (I would just flip the switch at the strip, but my alarm clock and TV is plugged in there too ). I used to just disconnect the power at the jack, but after seeing sparks fly a couple times with reconnecting it there -- I quickly decided that wasn't a good idea! Just out of curiosity, what's the setup of a dish like with RV'ers? Motorized or stationary? 1 meter, 90 cm, 75 cm? Tripod or other mount? How do you transport it about, put it inside the RV? Don't mean to hijack the thread, but it just sounds really cool to me

I don't think you could HiJack this thread as it was 2 mos + dead and for the microHD is a mute ??. I started a microHD / new dish review thread but because I am under enough stress to stop a Trane -- Pun intended -- I have not continued it.

I presently use a Primestar 75E mounted to a 2X12 that I put under one wheel. I used carriage bolts through the board to hold the base and remove the J pole and dish and lnb arm to transport in the basement of the MHs. I have the cables come out of the arm and the H/V switch right there. I also carry two ratchet clamps so I can fasten it to a table if needed. I used the Glorystar dish and mount for a while and the setup was much easier, but it was way to easy to distort the dish. Now with dozens to a hundred or more setups, aiming the dish to 97W usually take not more than 15 minutes (when I have a LOS to the south). Sadly, or humorously, the last 5 places we have parked had NO view of the sky except straight up! Motorized would be interesting, and if parked for long times might be worth it, but for 2 weeks or less it has not been for us. We go to see people and places, not to watch TV! Ham radio is more or less a permanent set up with vertical antennas with fixed mounts.

I have an extra switched strip for those things I want to turn off, plugged into a strip (inverter outlet) that does stay on all the time for the WX computer and router. My clock is a battery operated "atomic clock" and thermometer combi. So it does not use AC.

 

[rv1pop]

TvMind, If you are so inclined, after you are sure the box is working for you, you might talk with Brian and find out what experimenting YOU can do without voiding the warranty. Then again once the firmware and software proves itself (for $125), to make this fit your entertainment center needs -- I might even take it out of the case to mount in the overhead in a screen room with a nice perch for the remote sensor and power indicator lights, remoteing the HDMI, USB and A/V connections. The whole setup appears to be conducive to such experimenting. Then I would not have to be concerned with heat except for ambient conditions - and not in an enclosed cupboard.

 

[waylew]

For those tired of pulling plugs or reaching around the back,maybe one of these;
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/GEM-SOUND-SP8500-/555-17100
I got one works great.

 

[skysurfer]

I can see the plug failling as a result of becoming loose of extra wear usage. Similar to USB connectors. We can keep trying to explain other way around but the rocker is present in almost all brands.

I figure the part of the power cable that meets the molded strain relief is more likely a failure point. that's what I find in a lot of molded cables I use.

anyway, I give props tha the rocker is more durable than a power cord plug, but it's not a breaker or problem for me. I've only had to unplug the microHD maybe 3 times in the time that one of the first publically sold units arrived at my house - all for firmware updates -- so it's not a big deal.

and if the cord goes bad, so what - put a new plug on it or use a new wallwart -- it's not like Brian used microhd only wallwarts.