I didn't know they were all the same, thanks. I believe I read somewhere a long time ago that once you run check switch on the 211K with nothing connected, then connect to port 2 on the 1000.4 the only "eye" that would then be powered would be for 72.7 and would eliminate the chance of mixing them up. I thought the switch would be inoperative until running check switch after peaking. The same with my WA LNB, but those ports are crossed, Port 1 for 119. Port 2 for 110?
Anyhow I did think along those lines. After I did the last peaking in the 90 degree heat and was only getting 72 and 77 after running check switch, I took a hunk of foil and made sure the center eye was the one hitting 72.7
Here's a question, the eye on the right for 61.5 with the round white plastic cover as opposed to the oblong one for 72/77. Should I be able to twist that round white cover around and around or should it be glued on there solid?
After Dutch's post I drilled a small hole through that cover, no water, but noticed when doing so I can spin it.