ONE OR TWO CABLE FEEDS FROM DISH 500

fharris770

Well-Known SatelliteGuys Member
Original poster
Jan 5, 2009
33
0
Georgia
I have done some searching for the answer to my question, but haven't had much luck. I am seriously considering upgrading to a hopper from my existing 722. I have had the 722 unit for a LONG time and have learned a lot over that time about the setup. In reviewing the diagrams from DISH on wiring for a hopper I see one diagram that uses both cables from the dish to a single node and another diagram that only uses one cable from the dish through the node as output (capping the second output and adding a "tap" before the splitter). Is there any particular advantage to the two in two out version? I currently have two cables running from my dish to a grounding block but only one of the cables is tapped to go to my 722 where it is split to both tuners. I should be able to use either scheme without running any additional cables. Just curious about any advantage.

I have a few other questions as well:

I notice the diagram for the hopper shows grounding of the node. Does this eliminate a need for the current grounding block? Do you have to have an installer do your hopper upgrade? When I got the current 722 the guy who came on site was clueless and I had to wait until he left to finish the install and set the unit up properly. (By the way, I know there are some excellent installers out there, I just happen to get a guy who had been with dish for about 3 days, and I was more frustrated with dish for putting him in that position than I was with the tech himself). I currently use the modulated output of the 722 to service numerous (6) other TV's around the house. The line out has a 10db signal boaster and I am able to mirror what is on the 722 to SD and older sets that are just there for casual viewing -- Master bath, workshop, laundry room, etc. It looks like I can use the component output of the hopper with a modulator to achieve the same results for my older sets. Am I correct?

I ran all new RG6 (swept to 3000) and Cat5e lines to virtually all room in my house when I had the opportunity due to replacement of two AC units. I believe I have all the necessary cables to make the install relatively easy.

I would be purchasing one hopper and two joeys for now, with a possibility of adding a third joey in the future as I renovate my basement and perhaps include a home theater in the update.

Any help, suggestions, etc would be appreciated. I have been a dish customer for a long time, starting out with what I think was called a 300 or a 510 and moving up from there. While I have been frustrated with DISH more than a few times, it still seem to far exceed anything else (Direct TV, etc, etc) out there today.
 
The setup for 1H/2 or 3J's should be two lines from dish to solo node, 1 coax from node to the Hopper and 1 coax for all the Joeys by use of splitters and unused lines having a terminator used. I'm not sure what the second diagram you mention is about.
 
HopperJoeySystem_JobAid.pdf There are two diagrams, one shows the two in / two out method. The second diagram shows two feeds from dish, but only one output is used. The used output has a "tap" before the splitter and one output from the TAP goes to a splitter and the other output from the tap goes to the hopper. The second output from the node has a terminator.
 
HopperJoeySystem_JobAid.pdf There are two diagrams, one shows the two in / two out method. The second diagram shows two feeds from dish, but only one output is used. The used output has a "tap" before the splitter and one output from the TAP goes to a splitter and the other output from the tap goes to the hopper. The second output from the node has a terminator.

either way is fine. It just gives flexibility to the installer depending on wiring conditions in a home. Especially in situations where you can't run a second cable.

If you buy your own hopper/joey equipment, you should be able to install yourself. Not recommended for most people as you don't save any money.

If you want leased equipment through Dish, then get a good understanding of the wiring and map out a plan with the tech at the beginning of the install. Hopper has been out for a year so most techs should be fairly familiar with the install process. If you're at all uncomfortable with the tech, just cancel the upgrade and post back here again.
 
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You can't get much HD out of a D500 on only 110/119. Are you sure you don't have something bigger/newer, such as a 1000.n? The reason I ask is you will need 3 cables (one for each satellite location) to a dual node to feed two Hoppers.
 
Climbed out on the roof and took a look. Dish is labeled: DISH TURBO HD, the LNB has 3 "horns" but there are only 2 cables feeding out. It has been at least 5 years since anyone from Dish has been on site. The LNB is labeled dpPlus. The horns are evenly spaced rather than two together and one wide as a picture of a 1004 I found on internet. Does this help identify what dish I have?

I don't expect to need two hoppers and a dual node. Just my wife and me at home in a big house now.
 
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Climbed out on the roof and took a look. Dish is labeled: DISH TURBO HD, the LNB has 3 "horns" but there are only 2 cables feeding out. It has been at least 5 years since anyone from Dish has been on site. Does this help identify what dish I have?

I don't expect to need two hoppers and a dual node. Just my wife and me at home in a big house now.

Sounds like you have a 1000.2 dish or possibly a 1000.4. Regardless, all you need to do is take those two wires and run them into a solo node. Then out of the node to the Hopper and Joeys. I'd install the node inside or under cover if possible to avoid issues with water / rain outside.
 
Climbed out on the roof and took a look. Dish is labeled: DISH TURBO HD, the LNB has 3 "horns" but there are only 2 cables feeding out. It has been at least 5 years since anyone from Dish has been on site. Does this help identify what dish I have?

I don't expect to need two hoppers and a dual node. Just my wife and me at home in a big house now.

The dish doesn't really matter, it's the lnb's that are being used. Can you see DPP or DP on the lnb's or what it states on your check switch screen. (Since you are making use of a DPP Separator (that thing that looks like a splitter behind your 722 used to feed both receiver input) that is should be DPP. You will have no problem using it.
 
LNB is labeled dpPlus. the separator is also labeled dp plus. and has dish logo on it so I assume it is their equipment, not 3rd party.
 
LNB is labeled dpPlus. the separator is also labeled dp plus. and has dish logo on it so I assume it is their equipment, not 3rd party. I also did check switch. Getting 100, 119 and 129 on both inputs. screen says Port 1 DPP 1k.2 w/seperator and port w same.
 
You'll need two lines from the dish to the Solo Node. If you want to "future-proof," in case you ever want a second Hopper, you should have three lines coming from the dish.

Sent from my iPad 2 using Forum Runner
 
I agree about the inside location. When I ran all new RG6 I took the feeds from the dish about 4 feet and then under eve of house and into attic and from there down two floors to basement ceiling where I passed them through a grounding block and then to receiver. I do not have anything outside other than the dish. As the new NODE has a grounding lug, does this eliminate the need to use the old grounding block I currently use with my 722?
 

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