Okay to not ground coax feed from dish?

:up :up I think the best idea in the world would be to use fiber. :) :) :) ....that means No more grounding threads! Yeah!!!!!!! (I know, sob sob sob.) :( :( :(
 
jjmaster said:
Van,

Thanks so much for the links and clarification. :bow
One more question regarding the aluminum ground lug pictured. It does not appear to come with a bolt or screw and nut to attach to the upper ankle bolt holes. Am I wrong or do you need to supply your own? If I need to supply my own, what do I need?

Sorry if this questions seems so basic, but when you go to home depot and see a hundred types and sizes of screws/nuts/bolts you really don't know what to get. Does the metal type make a difference for rusting/grounding? A specific recommendation is appreciated. :) (Example: 1/2 inch #5 galvanized bolt and nut)

Thanks!

Supply your own, the ones listed I found on ebay wont have the nut and bolt, half inch head on nut and bolt and about 3/4 inch in length should be more than enough to adequately work. All you really have to do to size up what you need is slip a bolt through the hole and as long as it looks like it fits nicely but not snug you will be fine.
 
dishme said:
I had an installer here yesterday to hook up a 942. I had two feeds from the dish, but needed a third. The installer ran the cable directly from the dish to the receiver. (One cable with now splices.) I asked if it needed to be grounded and he indicated that as long as one feed from the dish was grounded, the others did not need to be. Is this correct, or should I have them fix it (they will be out here again today, because the installer ran into problems that he couldn't solve.

TIA
wrong! All conncetions must be grounded...Call dish and have them send a supervisory tech to fix..Do not accept anything less than a supervisor..Those in charge must be made aware that their techs are violating specifications..
 
dude2 said:
Does that mean to ground the insulation in the coax to a grounding block which is then connected to a ground rod 8 feet long, or are you to ground the dish and bracket from the dish and mast to ground with 10 gauge wire all the way, and not ground the coax insulation or do you need to ground the insulation of the coax and the dish and mast with a 10 gauge wire to the same 8 foot copper rod.
length of ground rod for the main house ground varies by area...here in the Carolinas the soil is highly conductive clay content. Clay soil is very acidic and easily conducts electricty..sandy soil is the opposite alkaline..much longer ground rods are required in these areas. Ground rods are 4 feet long..But now one county here requires TWO ground rods at each meter base...Weird...
 
dude2 said:
I have the tech coming on monday to properly ground my system. It took some talking to the csr to get it done as he said all he could do was authorize a service call but not guarantee it would get grounded.
I told him that if dish is paying the bill and they have hired this guy to do the installs and he will not do it right, he should be fired.
He then put me on hold for about 2 minutes and when he came back he had called the place my installer works for and verified that the system will be grounded.
I imagine I will have a bitchy installer come back and chew me out for calling but that is life. He is very good at intimidating the customer to his way.
if the installer gets sh!tty with you get his name..no wait..get his name and company name first..then if he gets sh!tty kick him out of your house,immediately call dish and the company he works for and give them the what for..There is no excuse for unprofessional behavior..
 
While we're on the subject of grounding...

Sad to report that my two DP301s were apparently "zapped" a couple of days ago by a severe electrical storm. The receivers power on, menus look okay, etc., but neither sees the satellites now -- AND Check Switch on both receivers now reports "no switch found". I tested with a borrowed DP301 and check switch runs fine on it, so it must be receiver(s) problem -- not a problem with dish/LNBs, or cabling. I removed covers to take a look inside, but don't see anything obviously "wrong" (charred or bubbled!). Obviously, that still doesn't mean that some component didn't get zapped -- which must be the case here.

This is a relatively new house, and yes I originally purchased the grounding blocks (etc.) for my dish install, but just HAD to go ahead and wire everything up (to watch TV) until I could find the "few hours" for my "proper grounding" project. One week led to one month -- one month led to a few months -- you get the picture. Time passed, and I never grounded my dish(es). Now, I'll pay the price (two DP301 receivers, two wireless routers, HDMI input on my 4-week old 42" plasma TV, power supply on my Media Center computer, and probably some yet-to-be-discovered things).

Lesson Learned. Now I must ground, and ground CORRECTLY!

Both of my dishes (Dish 500s) are 200-300' from point-of-entry at my house (I am surrounded by tall trees). One dish (single cable) enters the house thru same access "hole" as phone line (which is right beside my electrical main/meter). FWIW, I also have an outdoor wireless (802.11b/g) antenna that must be grounded (I have an arrestor block for this also) -- it also enters the house at this location. So I have 2 cables here that must be grounded. Can I simply attach these ground blocks (using #10 solid copper wire & a bolt clamp/connector) to the thick copper wire (visible) that runs down the wall (the assumption would be, of course, to GROUND) from my phone box? Or must I connect both of these (individually & directly) to the same thing that the phone ground wire is connected to (which I assume I'll have to dig to find!)?

The other side of the equation is that my other Dish 500 (2 cables - dual LNB) is on the other end of the house. Those 2 cables currently enter my crawlspace/basement on THAT end of the house. I had originally intended on driving a grounding rod (at least 4' -- this is very rocky red clay...I've read that clay is very conductive and shorter rods will work okay) on that end and using a dual grounding block -- then just let it run on thru the crawlspace/basement to my cabling "hub" (where the other cables enter the basement). But now I'm reading all of this about "you must connect all earth grounds", so I'm thinking I'm about to do something wrong? Must I connect my grounding rod to the other end of the house? If so, can I just run a long piece of #10 copper wire along with my 2 coax runs and connect it to the ground on the other end of the house (basically, go in the basement and come out the other end of the house)? Or should I just run the 2 coax cables straight under the house (no grounding block at point of entry) THEN out the other end of the house, ground them (along the 2 mentioned above), and then BACK into the basement (for connection to various TVs etc.)? On the surface, that approach sounds a bit dangerous ("inviting" the lightning charge to run thru the length of the basement and hope that it will exit nicely!).

My questions may sound a bit confused -- if so, it's because I'm NOT an electricity/lightning expert!! :)

Basically, it boils down to two questions -- (1) can I connect to the phone line copper ground wire (using the wire clamp) and accomplish proper grounding? (2) how is the best way to ground the 2 coax cables coming into the opposite end of the house?

THANKS MUCH!!!
Kevin
 
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Ignore my last post -- I'll move to a new thread...

Please ignore my previous post. I'm afraid that it is "lost" at the end of this long (old) thread, so I shall create a new thread instead. Thanks.

Kevin T.
 

622 and HD OTA Program Data?

So... should I sign up today, or wait until July 1st?

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