Here's a 100' roll of coax with ground at Lowes: http://www.lowes.com/pd_45743-63374-VHB6111GR_0__?productId=3740533
Need guidance for new FTA satellite install and roof antenna for local channels
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I am running two quad shield white cable to match my white siding from my soffit down the second floor wall to the grounding block which I plan to mount on the deck roof to hide it from view.
1) Can I use regular plastic coax staples to attach to the siding as it comes down vertically or do I need to use something else? Also note that my house doesn't have plywood sheathing. It has some soft particle board like crap they used to use in the 70's so The nail will not really be fastened to wood so I plan to put a spot of caulk under the staple nail to seal the hole in the vinyl plus hold the staple a little better. Will this work?
2) Is it ok to mount the grounding block to the roof? I cannot mount the grounding block on the wall because it will be more than the 20 feet ground wire maximum length between the grounding block and the planned location for the grounding rod.
1) Can I use regular plastic coax staples to attach to the siding as it comes down vertically or do I need to use something else? Also note that my house doesn't have plywood sheathing. It has some soft particle board like crap they used to use in the 70's so The nail will not really be fastened to wood so I plan to put a spot of caulk under the staple nail to seal the hole in the vinyl plus hold the staple a little better. Will this work?
2) Is it ok to mount the grounding block to the roof? I cannot mount the grounding block on the wall because it will be more than the 20 feet ground wire maximum length between the grounding block and the planned location for the grounding rod.
1. Those work well if the siding will allow the nail to grab. Check out cable clip screws. These might be better to use with the soft siding.
2. Have installed ground blocks under eves and on rafter-tails. Whatever keeps the ground wire short and direct. Be sure the ground rod is bonded to the structure ground or you may create a voltage potential and cause more problems than having no ground.
2. Have installed ground blocks under eves and on rafter-tails. Whatever keeps the ground wire short and direct. Be sure the ground rod is bonded to the structure ground or you may create a voltage potential and cause more problems than having no ground.
For #1) I ended up spending a number of hours running the wire through an interior wall and out at the bottom of the exterior wall near the top of the deck roof so I don't have this issue anymore.
For #2) I mean I want to install it on top of the roof not under the roof. Is there any issue with this?
For #2) I mean I want to install it on top of the roof not under the roof. Is there any issue with this?
The ground block could be mounted anywhere before the cable enters the structure. If not going under the eave, protect and waterproof the fittings and connections. I have installed ground blocks on posts and NPRM frames.
I wrap all my connections with 3M Temflex self-fusing, flexible rubber splicing tape. Never had a problem through any storms: http://www.lowes.com/pd_78453-98-2155_0__?productId=3129711
You'll definitely want drip loops anywhere cables will enter your home so water doesn't infiltrate inside your walls. On roof, probably depends on what position the block is mounted in but would think it's a good idea.
When I was terminating the coax I noticed that sometimes the grounding sheathe would twist around the middle conductor so I would have to remove it. I have not installed the grounding rod yet so the cables are not grounded but I was worried that the ground might still be touching the center conductor so I bought a Klein VDV Scout Pro 2. I connected the end of the cable that goes from my receiver into the Klein tool and it said Pass. Does this definitively mean the cable is properly terminated and there are no shorts? or do I need to test in some other fashion. Thanks.
A dull or uncalibrated or incorrect coax stripper will cause the braid to wrap the center conductor. Should be able to see the braid shorting across the insulator. A simple multi-meter will see the short as will the Klien. Pass means that the connector is passing signal and doesn't have a short. The Klien doesn't assure that it was physically assembled correctly.
I have a radio shack cable stripper. It is set to "6". The other options are 8, 9 and D. I do not have the instructions for it anymore so I don't know what the right setting should be for quad shield cable. The cable I used is a 100 foot long monoprice.com RG6 quad shield cable which I ran and then trimmed and terminated. The compression connectors are Paladin Tools compression connectors model #9647. I used a DataShark compression kit by Paladin tools to terminate the connectors.
When I terminated the connectors I basically followed the instructions in the Datashark manual. It said to cut the wire which I did with the Radioshack tool. A couple of times I noticed the ground wires wrapped around the center conductor so I had to pull them off of it (this is why I was scared that I might have missed some of the wires, that's why I bought the Klein tool which says my cable passed). The instructions said to pull back the first set of wires, the first set of aluminum foil and the second set of wires and leave the last piece of foil around the white part. I think I successfully did that. The only thing I was not able to do is get the white part totally flush with the compression connector. I got close but my fingers were getting raw from trying to get the white part deeper into the connector.
My signal strength on Galaxy 19 is 78-79% and right now the quality is 62-63% (though i swear I've seen the quality in the 50s the other day) with tree leaves possibly in or near the line of sight of the satellite.
Can you let me know if you think the cable is installed ok based on my description above? Any tips on pushing the white part flush with the connector? Also, would any of this adversely affect the signal strength or quality? Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it.
When I terminated the connectors I basically followed the instructions in the Datashark manual. It said to cut the wire which I did with the Radioshack tool. A couple of times I noticed the ground wires wrapped around the center conductor so I had to pull them off of it (this is why I was scared that I might have missed some of the wires, that's why I bought the Klein tool which says my cable passed). The instructions said to pull back the first set of wires, the first set of aluminum foil and the second set of wires and leave the last piece of foil around the white part. I think I successfully did that. The only thing I was not able to do is get the white part totally flush with the compression connector. I got close but my fingers were getting raw from trying to get the white part deeper into the connector.
My signal strength on Galaxy 19 is 78-79% and right now the quality is 62-63% (though i swear I've seen the quality in the 50s the other day) with tree leaves possibly in or near the line of sight of the satellite.
Can you let me know if you think the cable is installed ok based on my description above? Any tips on pushing the white part flush with the connector? Also, would any of this adversely affect the signal strength or quality? Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it.
Never used a Radio Shack cable tool, but typically tools are provided with an hex tool for adjusting the cut depth on the jacket and the the insulator. The slightest adjustment can make the difference between a perfect cut and a nightmare. Sometimes slight variances in the coax jacket material and thickness or the temperature can make setting compression connectors extremely challenging. It only gets worse in the cold!
I carried a tool similar to this for years, but rarely used it. http://www.hollandelectronics.com/catalog/upload_file/CGT-FBR.pdf
You need to be very careful not to damage the coax or catch anything on fire.... But a trick that I would use on cold days is to carefully heat approx. 1.5 inch end of the coax with a lighter to warm the jacket and insulator. The connector would slip on like butter.
I carried a tool similar to this for years, but rarely used it. http://www.hollandelectronics.com/catalog/upload_file/CGT-FBR.pdf
You need to be very careful not to damage the coax or catch anything on fire.... But a trick that I would use on cold days is to carefully heat approx. 1.5 inch end of the coax with a lighter to warm the jacket and insulator. The connector would slip on like butter.
excellent advice
and is this the stripper you need the manual for?
http://www.radioshack.com/graphics/uc/rsk/Support/ProductManuals/2780248_PM_EN.pdf
and
http://support.radioshack.com/support_supplies/doc62/62564.pdf
great coax stripper, i've had the same one since 7/2001 when i first started installing satellite systems.
Really depends on how close the insertion depth is. If 1/8", it's fine. 1/4" or more, it may cause problems down the road.
The insulator prevents the center conductor from shorting against the outer shield and to maintain correct electrical characteristics. Not inserting the coax fully into the fitting results in a weak fitting that may pull out or wick water.
Don't worry if your connectors aren't perfect. Some systems work for years using screw-on and crimp fittings!
The insulator prevents the center conductor from shorting against the outer shield and to maintain correct electrical characteristics. Not inserting the coax fully into the fitting results in a weak fitting that may pull out or wick water.
Don't worry if your connectors aren't perfect. Some systems work for years using screw-on and crimp fittings!
The coax is definitely shoved in quite a bit into the connectors. I might buy that tool that was linked above to help me try to get the insulator flush for future crimps.
1) I crimped these wires in good weather (60s/70s) so would heating the wire help in that case? How do you heat the wire, with a blow torch?
2) I just found out my coax cable (from monoprice) is NOT outdoor/uv rated. most of the wiring is run in the walls of the house but a few feet of it is exposed when it gets to the satellite dish. Is this going to be a big problem?
1) I crimped these wires in good weather (60s/70s) so would heating the wire help in that case? How do you heat the wire, with a blow torch?
2) I just found out my coax cable (from monoprice) is NOT outdoor/uv rated. most of the wiring is run in the walls of the house but a few feet of it is exposed when it gets to the satellite dish. Is this going to be a big problem?
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