Looking for an A/B switch

[linuxman]

[FONT=Fixedsys]..
                [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys](off)[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]   _______ Pansat _____ Gbox _____Perfect 10
       |               /         3500   
[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]3200-->|---|          /  
[/FONT] [FONT=Fixedsys]      |   |         /
           |----- relay
           |        ^ \
       |   |        |  \
BLSA-->|---|__mmmm__|   \ 
       |      (RFC)      \_______ Fortec _____ 2100 _____Primestar 84e
                  [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys] (on)[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]            5400        motor  
[/FONT]

Hard to draw with characters, especially when the forum fights ya.
The "mmm" (RFC) is an RF choke, and serves the same purpose discussed in the thread about losing RF signal through 2100 motors.
The poorly drawn diodes --->|---- keep the voltages of the BLSA out of the 3200.

The above assumes you can control LNB power from either the 3200 or BLSA and turn it on or off to select your source, using a relay.
Since STBs let you turn on/off LNB power for each satellite, I thought we could use the same concept here.

The power coming from either the BLSA or the 3200 is only on when you are actually doing something with the software.

You either have to be scanning with Transedit, analyzing with Transedit, running a sweep with the BLSA, or a skyscan with the BLSA to have the power on. It is not on full time out of either card.

I have found it very convenient for instance to have the Pansat scanning say the Vertical side of a satellite, run a sweep at the same time, and if I find something interesting run an analysis with the BLSA program still open.

The "diode" steering hi-freq splitter allows me to do that without fear of burning up either pretty expensive card.

Now, why would I want to build something that I would have to learn how to build, then solder it together and hope it works when I have a perfectly good piece of equipment here already paid for and all I have to do is test it?

If it doesn't test out, I may look for alternatives but would probably opt to buy something that fits rather than try and make it.

 

[stogie5150]

FWIW I use old-fashioned manual slide A/B switches on both of my setups. 4.99 each at The Big Orange Box. one side c, one side Ku. the KU side passes diseqc and motor moving signals fine. Only problem is that its manual.

 

[linuxman]

FWIW I use old-fashioned manual slide A/B switches on both of my setups. 4.99 each at The Big Orange Box. one side c, one side Ku. the KU side passes diseqc and motor moving signals fine. Only problem is that its manual.

Thanks Stogie,

If it comes down to it, that is what I will do as well.

Not much difference between your idea and a manual switch running an electronic one except for a more delicate transition from one cable to the other without sparks flying. :yikes:

 

[stogie5150]

Thanks Stogie,

If it comes down to it, that is what I will do as well.

Not much difference between your idea and a manual switch running an electronic one except for a more delicate transition from one cable to the other without sparks flying. :yikes:

Hell if I could get sparks to fly, and maybe a little smoke, I'd be a HAPPY GUY!!!!!

Oh, as an addition to your problem, why couldn't you use one of those ECODA 22k switches right behind the receivers?

 

[pandillero]

a/b switch for Dish & FTA

I have a diferent problem. I have a pay program with dish net. where I have High Def channels and I am going to use a VS HD Max.

My problem is that if I dont use my VIP 211 for long period of time I lost all my
paid programs and have to call to have them re-installed.

What I would like is, to have both Fta and Dish reciever connected with a
a/b switch so I won't lost any channel in my VIP 211.

I have:

A: 2 way splitter with one power pass, "PGD 12".... 5 to 2050 MHz
B: A Radio Shack A/B black switch Cat.No 15-1232 nothing else on the switch.

 

[linuxman]

I stopped by the Rat Shack today and picked up a nice little SPST toggle switch today, and maybe I'll get around to testing the electronic switch I found among my spare parts.

I finally figured out what that switch was used for. I have 3 NIB GI Super 350i analog boxes that out of the box supports voltage controlled LNBFs. If you have a co-rotor, you need to use this switch to change from C-Ku on the input. That receiver outputs 5V for that job, so a low voltage wall-wart of any kind should work.

Hopefully I can test it later today.

 

[SatPhreak]

The 0/12V switch that Sadoun sells says between 5-12V to operate also.

 

[linuxman]

The 0/12V switch that Sadoun sells says between 5-12V to operate also.

Thanks!

I think they are pretty much the same switch.

 

[linuxman]

I tested my 0/12V switch today using a 9V wall wart that I had laying around. The wall wart puts out 13V with no load, so I figured it would work fine.

I put the SPST toggle switch in-line on the ground side, ran a coax from the loop-out of the Fortec receiver, and a coax from the loop-out of the Pansat into the switch. Then a coax out into a spare Traxis receiver I have here. I hooked the Traxis up to my little test tv.

Set the big dish on AMC10 at 135W, just to make sure no Ku was coming in through it.

Set the Primestar 84e on G18 at 123W, and fired it all up. I have it hooked so that with power off, it pulls in from the big dish, and with power on, it pulls through the little dish.

Worked like a champ! :clap:

Now I just have to get it hooked into the BLSA/3200 system.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions and help!! :

 

[linuxman]

Made myself a holder for the toggle switch and have it within arms reach for easy access to on and off. Soldered the wires in place and mounted the box. Hooked up all the cables, and the BLSA/3200 setup works fine through it.

Now I can scan any Ku Satellite East of 43W all the way down to 30W.