Looking for an A/B switch

[linuxman]

I want to be able to tie in my motorized Primestar 84e dish to my 10 foot Perfect 10 dish for my BLSA setup. Both setting on my front parking lot.

The LOS on the ten footer only goes to 43W on the East side, and I want to be able to scan any Ku sats East of there especially Hispasat at 30W.

The Primestar has the LOS and pulls it in nicely and is being powered by my Fortec Star IR-5400NA.

I have the BLSA/TT S2-32000 slaved off my Pansat, so I need an A/B switch of some kind whether mechanical or electrical to slave from the FS into the BLSA/TT setup.

Anyone know of such a switch?

Thanks!

 

[SatPhreak]

A 0/12V switch is an electrical a/b switch. You would need to modify something to switch it with though. Too bad none of the boxes support it.

 

[voomvoom]

Rat Shack used to sell A/B switches, I assume they still do?

Of course they were made for OTA applications, maybe they've redeseigned them to handle the higher frequencies?

 

[dfergie]

I used the Radio Shack A/B switch with my Legacy Dishnetwork 6000 U receiver( to switch between 61.5 and 148 for CBSHD(switch check after switching)) won a Dpp44 in a chat and upgraded...

 

[Anole]

I had to read your post several times to figure out what you had and what you were wanting to do with it.
Hope I understood well enough to offer a thought or two.

First off, the BLSA is never in control of any motors nor LNBs, correct?
In the case of the Perfect-10, the Pansat 3500 runs that positioner, et al...?
And in the case of the 84e, the FS 5400 runs that positioner, et al...?
In both cases, the BLSA is located on the Loop-Out of the receivers(?)
Okay, if that's all true, how 'bout this idea?

[FONT=Fixedsys]..
                 ______ Pansat _____ Gbox _____Perfect 10
        (off)  /         3500   
BLSA <------ 22khz        
        (on)   \_______ Fortec _____ 2100 _____Primestar 84e
                         5400        motor  
...
[/FONT]

Takes advantage of a "feature" of the regular kind of switch:
A 22khz switch that's not an Ecoda, doesn't pass forward the 22khz, so . . .
. . . even if it mattered, the 22khz signal wouldn't get through the switch to control anything.

 

[linuxman]

I had to read your post several times to figure out what you had and what you were wanting to do with it.
Hope I understood well enough to offer a thought or two.

First off, the BLSA is never in control of any motors nor LNBs, correct?
In the case of the Perfect-10, the Pansat 3500 runs that positioner, et al...?
And in the case of the 84e, the FS 5400 runs that positioner, et al...?
In both cases, the BLSA is located on the Loop-Out of the receivers(?)
Okay, if that's all true, how 'bout this idea?

All true!

[FONT=Fixedsys]..
                 ______ Pansat _____ Gbox _____Perfect 10
        (on)   /         3500   
BLSA <------ 22khz        
        (off)  \_______ Fortec _____ 2100 _____Primestar 84e
                         5400        motor  
...
[/FONT]

Takes advantage of a "feature" of the regular kind of switch:
A 22khz switch that's not an Ecoda, doesn't pass forward the 22khz, so . . .
. . . even if it mattered, the 22khz signal wouldn't get through the switch to control anything.

I think that might work fine.

Only two problems I might run into.

Does the BLSA have a way to pass the 22khz tone needed? I might have to ask that question in the BLSA thread unless one of those guys reads this.

Will it block the signals from DVBViewer?

DVBViewer is pretty picky when it comes to that sort of things in the settings.

Thanks Anole!

I used the Radio Shack A/B switch with my Legacy Dishnetwork 6000 U receiver( to switch between 61.5 and 148 for CBSHD(switch check after switching)

Rat Shack used to sell A/B switches, I assume they still do?

Of course they were made for OTA applications, maybe they've redeseigned them to handle the higher frequencies?

Thanks dfergie and Al! I might just have to do that if the 22Khz switch doesn't work out.

A 0/12V switch is an electrical a/b switch. You would need to modify something to switch it with though. Too bad none of the boxes support it.

Now there is another option if the above two don't work.

Thanks satphreak!

You see, if you just ask, you can get all kinds of answers from you guys.

 

[Anole]

I think that might work fine.
Only two problems I might run into.

Does the BLSA have a way to pass the 22khz tone needed?
I might have to ask that question in the BLSA thread unless one of those guys reads this.

Will it block the signals from DVBViewer?
DVBViewer is pretty picky when it comes to that sort of things in the settings.

Maybe I didn't show all the parts in place.
Does the S2-3200 board have a loop out to the BLSA?
If that's how it's hooked up, let the S2 board generate the 22khz tone (?)
- see revised diagram -

[FONT=Fixedsys]..
                     _______ Pansat _____ Gbox _____Perfect 10
             (off)  /         3500   
BLSA<---3200<--- 22khz        
             (on)   \_______ Fortec _____ 2100 _____Primestar 84e
                              5400        motor  
[/FONT]

But if the wiring is the other way around, shouldn't it still work?

[FONT=Fixedsys]..
             [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys](off)[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]   _______ Pansat _____ Gbox _____Perfect 10
                    /         3500   
3200<---BLSA<--- 22khz        
                    \_______ Fortec _____ 2100 _____Primestar 84e
             [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys](on)[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]             5400        motor  
[/FONT]

 

[SatPhreak]

That last option might still add 22khz into the blsa through the 3200 loop out. It might be worth a shot trying it with something you've already scaned to see if it changes with the sw22 inline. I think I read somewhere that some of the dvb card softwares will work with a 0/12v switch but I'm not sure.

 

[linuxman]

Maybe I didn't show all the parts in place.
Does the S2-3200 board have a loop out to the BLSA?
If that's how it's hooked up, let the S2 board generate the 22khz tone (?)
- see revised diagram -

[FONT=Fixedsys]..
                     _______ Pansat _____ Gbox _____Perfect 10
             (off)  /         3500   
BLSA<---3200<--- 22khz        
             (on)   \_______ Fortec _____ 2100 _____Primestar 84e
                              5400        motor  
[/FONT]

But if the wiring is the other way around, shouldn't it still work?

[FONT=Fixedsys]..
             [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys](off)[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]   _______ Pansat _____ Gbox _____Perfect 10
                    /         3500   
3200<---BLSA<--- 22khz        
                    \_______ Fortec _____ 2100 _____Primestar 84e
             [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys](on)[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]             5400        motor  
[/FONT]

The S2 card does not have a loop out.

I have both the BLSA and the S2 card wired into a "diode" steered Hi-Freq splitter so I doubt the 22Khz switch idea will work even if it can be passed by the BLSA.

That last option might still add 22khz into the blsa through the 3200 loop out. It might be worth a shot trying it with something you've already scaned to see if it changes with the sw22 inline. I think I read somewhere that some of the dvb card softwares will work with a 0/12v switch but I'm not sure.

I think the best option is your 0/12v idea if I can figure out a way to get voltage to it externally.

Second best is a manual A/B switch.

I'll have to check the Rat Shack.

You would think that out of all the crap I have here from the installers I bought out there would be a simple A/B switch.

 

[ACRadio]

I think the best option is your 0/12v idea if I can figure out a way to get voltage to it externally.

It's easily done. All you need is either a 9 volt or a 12 volt DC discarded wall wart of some kind. Put a SPST switch inline with the ground wire and attach the wall wart output to the switch.

I prefer a 9 volt WW. In a no load condition it puts out about 12 or 13 volts, and the load of a 0/12 volt switch isn't but about 20ma or so, so when it's on it won't drag the voltage down nearly to the point where the switch won't work.

 

[linuxman]

It's easily done. All you need is either a 9 volt or a 12 volt DC discarded wall wart of some kind. Put a SPST switch inline with the ground wire and attach the wall wart output to the switch.

That sounds easy enough. I have oodles of wall warts laying around catching dust.

What is a SPST switch. Single Pole Single Throw? Where is the best place to get one, or just use an electric light switch?

I prefer a 9 volt WW. In a no load condition it puts out about 12 or 13 volts, and the load of a 0/12 volt switch isn't but about 20ma or so, so when it's on it won't drag the voltage down nearly to the point where the switch won't work.

I am sure I have one of those.

Next question is where to find the 0/12v coaxial switch?

 

[SatPhreak]

You could get real fancy and steal power from the pc serial port to power a relay to switch on +12v from the pc power supply. It can be controled from the computer with software. Programing is not something I know, but I was thinking of the relay idea and found a web site that kind of explains how. How to get power from RS-232 port

 

[SatPhreak]

SPST is single pole single throw. An electrical light switch will work if you don't have any small dc switches around. I think Sadoun sells the 0/12V switches.

 

[linuxman]

SPST is single pole single throw. An electrical light switch will work if you don't have any small dc switches around. I think Sadoun sells the 0/12V switches.

Nah, I don't want to make this harder than it is.

I'll find a small SPST switch of some kind, and just use the wall wart.

I'll call my guy local tomorrow and see if they have the 0/12V switch, if they don't I'll have to order one.

Thanks!

 

[linuxman]

I found this little jewel in one of the boxes of stuff I got from the KC installer.

It is definitely a switch, but other than that, I don't know much about it.

It looks like it may serve my purpose. It looks like it was made to switch from C to Ku, but there are no parameters to tell me how much voltage etc.

Let me know what you think?

 

[SatPhreak]

That looks like what you need. Apply 12V and check with an ohmmeter that it switches ports. If so wire into your setup. It's nice to have parts laying around, saves from buying more.

 

[Anole]

The S2 card does not have a loop out.

But the BLSA card does have loop-out?
Is there any reason not to operate that way?

I have both the BLSA and the S2 card wired into a "diode" steered Hi-Freq splitter so I doubt the 22Khz switch idea will work even if it can be passed by the BLSA.

The only reason I can think you'd want diodes in the splitter, would be to pass power to the LNB.

But back to your point...
The BLSA and the S2-3200 card both have their inputs in common, eh?
Is either able to supply 22khz tone on demand?
Well, technically, is the software of either unit able to switch on/off the 22khz tone?

Alternately, is either able to control LNB power?
As a last resort, I'm wondering if you could use the presence or absence of LNB power to engage that switch you found?

 

[linuxman]

But the BLSA card does have loop-out?
Is there any reason not to operate that way?

Neither card has a loop out.

The only reason I can think you'd want diodes in the splitter, would be to pass power to the LNB.

I can think of one very good reason. So that voltage won't go back into the other card when both are live.

But back to your point...
The BLSA and the S2-3200 card both have their inputs in common, eh?

Yes.

Is either able to supply 22khz tone on demand?
Well, technically, is the software of either unit able to switch on/off the 22khz tone?

The DVBViewer software has that capability. and as was answered above, the BLSA may have the capability too.

Alternately, is either able to control LNB power?

Both have the capability, but both are slaved, so there is no need to power the LNB.

As a last resort, I'm wondering if you could use the presence or absence of LNB power to engage that switch you found?

As far as I know neither software has the ability to turn the power off or on. I think both assume that you want power to the LNB.

As the power is applied externally, I don't see a way to do that anyway.

 

[Anole]

[FONT=Fixedsys]..
                [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys](off)[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]   _______ Pansat _____ Gbox _____Perfect 10
       |               /         3500   
[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]3200-->|---|          /  
[/FONT] [FONT=Fixedsys]      |   |         /
           |----- relay
           |        ^ \
       |   |        |  \
BLSA-->|---|__mmmm__|   \ 
       |      (RFC)      \_______ Fortec _____ 2100 _____Primestar 84e
                  [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys] (on)[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]            5400        motor  
[/FONT]

Hard to draw with characters, especially when the forum fights ya.
The "mmm" (RFC) is an RF choke, and serves the same purpose discussed in the thread about losing RF signal through 2100 motors.
The poorly drawn diodes --->|---- keep the voltages of the BLSA out of the 3200.

The above assumes you can control LNB power from either the 3200 or BLSA and turn it on or off to select your source, using a relay.
Since STBs let you turn on/off LNB power for each satellite, I thought we could use the same concept here.

 

[linuxman]

That looks like what you need. Apply 12V and check with an ohmmeter that it switches ports. If so wire into your setup. It's nice to have parts laying around, saves from buying more.

Thanks SatPhreak for answering the question.

It is nice having a lot of spare parts around. The only problem I have is wading through the boxes to find what I want.