I went back to 97W to get the few channels off there that I'd watch, but I cannot get a signal lock on 97W G19 12152 H 20000. I have the few other transponders locking up with good signal Q but not this one. Is anyone else getting or not getting this one? I'm after Al Jazeera.
Is 97W G19 12152 H 20000 On?
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I think that is the hardest transponder to lock on that Sat. RT is also on that one. But it's there 
I'm using the microHD 90cm geosat and SG9120B too, no switches. Why would I not be seeing one transponder out of the many up there? I have good lock on 72w -125w but haven't fine tuned the dish for further reaches to the side. I wouldn't think this would be that difficult to get this one transponder. 97W is about my true south sat.
I think that is the hardest transponder to lock on that Sat. RT is also on that one. But it's there
Guess I need to tweak...
For Glorystar systems we recommend using 12152 to locate the satellite as it is not only a unique transponder and will not provide false positives, but it is also one of the stronger transponders. If you have peaked your 97w on another transponder, it may be necessary to balance between several transponders. Glorystar systems are typically balanced between three transponders on 97w, TP frequencies 12152, 12115 and 11842.
Interesting! That was the very last transponder to scan in for me on the Laser 10' dish. Good signal, but I had to tweak and scan many times before I got those channels to ID for me. I found it quite ironic, of all the channels on this bird, the two I watched the most were on the only transponder that wouldn't come in. Now that you make me think about that, I remember that was before I made some serious feedhorn adjustments that eliminated a lot of huge differences between transponders.
Thanks. I went back to the transponder list and had no signal on 12152. I manually added 12115 and 11842 and had SQ=70-73 on them. I then checked 12152 and it shows SQ=73-74. Is this strange or is my system being finicky? I do need to remove some back-lash from the motor, but it isn't that bad.
For the longest time I could not get the channel names to scan in on this transponder and now they do. I just noticed that the Q is 20 to 25 points below normal on my box tonight. The 3ABN channels on 11842 are the weakest on this satellite for me and tonight they are 20 points below 12152. Just about every other transponder is at normal strength
I have Galaxy 19 coming in pretty good on my slimline with no problems was watching RT and Aljezzera.
dan rose
dan rose
... but it isn't that good, either!
Some thoughts:
- inspect / replace coax between motor & dish
- locate receiver out at motor (new coax)
- what dish/size/shape do you have & what condition is it in?
- which LNBF are you using?
iPhone 4
I went out last night and tweaked the dish a bit. Just some pressure on the dish upwards got solid lock on 12152. I was amazed how little was needed.
The backlash on my motor is practically nonadjustable. It is a Powermax SG9120B by sticker but is essentially junk from an engineering or manufacturing perspective. Is this a bootleg knockoff of a proper motor? The gear train has some eccentric component somewhere so that it will not power through the bind. Someone mentioned that the shaft support bushing has slop in it, which is true with this one. The combination of sloppy bushing tolerances and the inability to adjust the gear lash out make this very undesirable for a good performing positioner. I'm starting to think it'd be better to put up 4 dishes with switches and get perfect aiming all around instead of living with 1/4+" of rim movement on a 90cm dish and spotty performance on the troublesome TPs.
More on this motor... It has dual slots for the elevation adjustment, one for the upper and one for the lower portion of the range. The scale for Latitude is just wrong, off by 5 or 10 degrees. I attached photos of the motor set for my LAT of 40.6N. The instructions say use 40 degrees for calculating the dish elevation, the forum here mentioned it's wrong and to use 30 degrees. It's somewhere closer to 35 degrees. My pole is perfectly plumb (insert joke here), but the motor when mounted is off by about 1/8 bubble on my level. Garbage, I say. But it moves and was able to get me strong TPs from 72W to 125W. That's not good enough for dependable LPBS and OETA, transient sports feeds and 97W 12152 on a regular basis. My next step is to remove the motor and measure the actual tube angle and compensate the pole for the motor mound bracket. But the slop of the tube movement is going to be hard to fix.
The 8' Channel Master I harvested (but yet to put up) has nice tight pivots in the mount. It'll be nice to get going on that.
The backlash on my motor is practically nonadjustable. It is a Powermax SG9120B by sticker but is essentially junk from an engineering or manufacturing perspective. Is this a bootleg knockoff of a proper motor? The gear train has some eccentric component somewhere so that it will not power through the bind. Someone mentioned that the shaft support bushing has slop in it, which is true with this one. The combination of sloppy bushing tolerances and the inability to adjust the gear lash out make this very undesirable for a good performing positioner. I'm starting to think it'd be better to put up 4 dishes with switches and get perfect aiming all around instead of living with 1/4+" of rim movement on a 90cm dish and spotty performance on the troublesome TPs.
More on this motor... It has dual slots for the elevation adjustment, one for the upper and one for the lower portion of the range. The scale for Latitude is just wrong, off by 5 or 10 degrees. I attached photos of the motor set for my LAT of 40.6N. The instructions say use 40 degrees for calculating the dish elevation, the forum here mentioned it's wrong and to use 30 degrees. It's somewhere closer to 35 degrees. My pole is perfectly plumb (insert joke here), but the motor when mounted is off by about 1/8 bubble on my level. Garbage, I say. But it moves and was able to get me strong TPs from 72W to 125W. That's not good enough for dependable LPBS and OETA, transient sports feeds and 97W 12152 on a regular basis. My next step is to remove the motor and measure the actual tube angle and compensate the pole for the motor mound bracket. But the slop of the tube movement is going to be hard to fix.
The 8' Channel Master I harvested (but yet to put up) has nice tight pivots in the mount. It'll be nice to get going on that.
Attachments
I've got the same motor, and had a terrible time of getting it set up properly because of the scale being off. I finally did it by using my inclinometer, on the bottom of the motor and went by elevation. Once I did that, I still had to change my USALS setting UP by 1 degree for my Longitude (85*.** instead of 84*.**) on my MicroHD . Now all the sats are dead-on, and they are staying dead on. I used 30 degrees for calculating the tube rather than 40 degrees, and that allowed me to get my dish set closer on the proper declination per it's scale.
I have two 9120Bs, and have found them to be reliable motors. I never looked at the instruction booklet (always throw those away, most FTA equipment manuals are worthless), but the motor was easy to set up.
As far as slack or backlash, all H-H DiSEqC motors I've used (including the SG-2100) have this problem from the start. The SG-9120 (A and B) are easier to adjust for backlash than the SG-2100. You have to remove the single sticker that says "Warranty void if removed". Behind that sticker is a single hex bolt that will allow slack adjustment. There is a sweet spot between where the bolt is too tight (motor whines and strains) and where it is too loose (shaft has slack). Once that adjustment is correctly made (its a very small range, so you'll have to play with it a bit) and the tube is tight on the shaft (large hex bolt that goes through it), the motor should work well.
As far as slack or backlash, all H-H DiSEqC motors I've used (including the SG-2100) have this problem from the start. The SG-9120 (A and B) are easier to adjust for backlash than the SG-2100. You have to remove the single sticker that says "Warranty void if removed". Behind that sticker is a single hex bolt that will allow slack adjustment. There is a sweet spot between where the bolt is too tight (motor whines and strains) and where it is too loose (shaft has slack). Once that adjustment is correctly made (its a very small range, so you'll have to play with it a bit) and the tube is tight on the shaft (large hex bolt that goes through it), the motor should work well.
The instructions I've found for adjusting the SG9120_ motors mention the larger M4 screw and the smaller M3 screw. Does anyone know what these two actually do? I was under the impression the M4 screw (under the warranty void sticker) adjusted the mechanical mesh of a gear, but what does the M3 screw do?
SG9120-Backlash-Adjustment.pdf
SG9120-Backlash-Adjustment.pdf
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It adjusts the currency..... Is that the US Dollar against the Yen or Euro? Must have been a Google Translation of Chinese...I believe that the description should have stated that the M4 is for making coarse backlash adjustment and M3 is for fine tuning the backlash adjustment.
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