I prefer the Carlon orange colored low voltage wiring box frame sold at Lowe's or Home Depot. I use these, when I need access inside the wall, and especially when I heed to place the combination stacked RJ11 phone jack and "F" connector. In the case that I need to use more than one cable, like for a 322/522 or two line DirecTiVo or separate satellite and OTA feeds, I just remove the barrel connector and enlarge the hole to 5/8 or 3/4" with a step drill like a unibit. That way, I can feed up to four coaxes through the hole directly.
If I'm installing a one outlet wall plate or one that doesn't require a phone jack, I use a 2 or 2-1/8' hole saw and cut a hole or the paneling, where the wall plate should be. The hole allows easy wall fishes. This way, you can also place the outside entry hole(s) anywhere within the wall cavity between the studs, even with insulation. Or, in case of a basement or a crawl space, you can drill into the floor plate and get the cable into the hole for an internal wall fish. If you can get to the top plate in a one story house, you can locate the position in the attic with a small wire trough the dry wall in the ceiling. In this way you can use Greenlee "Fishsticks" fiberglass poles ($30 at Home Depot) to push the wires down to the position of the hole.
I especially like using those white or beige blank nylon 2x4 wall plates. You can use a step drill to cut any number or combination of 3/8" holes for barrel connectors and nuts or to make a large round hole to feed multiple cables. These are sure a lot cheaper than those special plates with outlet inserts. Plastic 3/16" screw shields and a supply of #6x1" oval head sheet metal screws are ideal for securing these plates to dry wall. In wood or paneling, no screw shields would be needed.
Hope this helps. I do almost all high end "wall fish" installs for dbs installs and Home Theater, as well as "old work" electrical wiring.