Help the Polorator has died

[tonydix]

I had been using a Chapparal Feed horn and polorator with a Norsat LNB with some success. Now the polorator has died and the four set screws holding it to the feedhorn have siezed. So what to do now ?

I could buy an ESX241 with the benefit of being a LNBF and scrap the Norsat cost about $40 or
I can buy a new feedhorn and polorator on ebay for about $65 and continue to use the Norsat but have only LNBF.

Anyone any useful pointers to this issue
Thanks

Tony

 

[Thehandyone]

I have a chaparral feedhorn and polarotor from the 10' i rescued that i don't use. I haven't checked to make sure the polarotor still works but you could have it for the shipping cost if you were interested. I can send some pics when i get back home.

 

[rv1pop]

Shipping to Panama might be HIGH! Is it just the polorator or the feed horn also? Frozen screws can be a problem, but usually there is a way to get them out. Grinding off the heads and hot-glueing the new polorator back on comes to my mind.

 

[Thehandyone]

Lol. I can't see anyones location on the app on my phone. I have both the feedhorn and the rotor.

 

[cracklincrotch]

It's not the shipping I'd be concerned about. It's working on the feed of a 24 foot monstrosity. Every time I see that avatar I shake my head in amazement because I just can't fathom having a bud that enormous. The diameter of that dish is wider than the half-duplex I live in.

That dish is a marvel to me

 

[turbosat]

Squirt a little penetrating oil on the screws, they'll come out with a little effort. And a good screwdriver. They're usually just tiny little stainless screws, never had any seize on my dishes, so far.

 

[cracklincrotch]

I've found that carburetor cleaner works best for getting screws and nuts loose, even from aluminum. If he heads of the screws are raised you may still have to use small vise-grips to start the moving.

 

[tonydix]

"I have a chaparral feedhorn and polarotor from the 10' i rescued that i don't use. I haven't checked to make sure the polarotor still works but you could have it for the shipping cost if you were interested. I can send some pics when i get back home."

That would be great we are visiting friends in Idaho in early sept so maybe you could ship it there. Their zip is 83442. If you can work out the shipping cost I will send you some cash to cover the cost and a little more for a beer or two. Many thanks
Tony​

 

[Cham]

If you are heading to the US I would also look into ordering a good quality LNBF, maybe a C2 comes to mind. If you get those screws loose replace them with stainless steel. The Chaparral feed horn I have has stainless steel allen screws to hold the feedhorn throat and I picked up some 1/4" SS screws for the arms. Helps out here and would likely help out in the tropics as well. I still use the Chaparral scaler ring with the C2 I have on the dish now. The 241s work well too.

 

[Thehandyone]

Here are a few pics of the feedhorn and rotor. Like I said earlier, I dont have any way of testing the polarotor, but as long as you're still interested ill get it packed up and pm you a shipping quote.

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[tonydix]

Looks good to me. I will take a chance on the polarotor.
Many thanks
Tony

 

[primestar31]

Here are a few pics of the feedhorn and rotor. Like I said earlier, I dont have any way of testing the polarotor, but as long as you're still interested ill get it packed up and pm you a shipping quote.

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You can just use a 9 volt battery to see if the probe moves. If so, reverse the wires, and see that it then goes the other direction...

 

[Kallesatman]

Wasn't there also an IC as part of the polarotor. It seems to me that there was a modification to the polarotor to prevent damage to the IC due to static. If memory serves me right then the polarotor worked on 5 VDC . I should still have some documentation / information on the polarotor but it will require some digging on my part. Let me know. I'm envious of your dish. Mine is only 12 foot solid spun aluminum that came out of an AT&T microwave link system. It is on my webpage/site; www.karl-heinz-graf.com 73, K0ELE KARL

 

[tonydix]

I would very much like the details when you can dig them out. I enjoyed you website and was green with envy when I saw your tower with all the antenna on it. How does your windom perform on 20 metres. I have had trouble with HF antennas here in our jungle location surrounded by many tall trees !
73 Tony vp9ne

 

[FaT Air]

A 9 volt battery will likely burn out the servo(3 leads). That's not how they work. don' do it.
Use this: Simple Servo Driver
Now, if it's actually a polarizer, a 9 vdc battery will work (two leads)

 

[primestar31]

A 9 volt battery will likely burn out the servo(3 leads). That's not how they work. don' do it.
Use this: Simple Servo Driver
Now, if it's actually a polarizer, a 9 vdc battery will work (two leads)

No it won't, not for a quick test to see if it works. I have done it before when I had a polarotor go bad from the winter, and I needed to replace it with a used one I had.

I've used this circuit years ago to control mine: Simple Servo Controller

 

[FaT Air]

Yeah, a servo may twitch as power is applied. But in many instances it still can be dead. (Not able to move when the pulses command it to move) Leaving it attached will probably burn it out. Been there/done that. R/C airplanes another hobby here.

 

[ynnedibanez]

what about going to a c/ku lnbf?
i bet you could get amazing signal strength on ku band with a dish that big

 

[Kallesatman]

Hi Tony,
found the original Polarotor instruction manual. I guess I'm a pack rat. There were two ( 2 ) versions of the Polarotor, Polrarotor I, which was a servo motor and the wires are; red = 5 VDC , white = pulse , black = ground. If memory serves me right there was an IC inside the housing. I think it was from National Semiconductor and the modification was to put an electrolytic cap across red and black wire. Polarotor II , was a reversible DC motor for probe rotation. That unit will work with any six to twelve volt DC source. In that case you can use a 9 VDC battery. From the pictures that you have posted it appears that you have a Polarotor I; servo motor version. DO NOT USE THE 9 VDC battery test !! Capacitor value; 1000 ufd 16 VDC electrolytic . The HF Ant is an offset Carolina windom and I still use a tuner with it at times. Works great for me. Keep me posted on your progress. How did you end up with a 24 foot dish? Would like to see some pictures. 73 , karl

 

[turbosat]

For the OP, I just found a location that sells replacements for the polarity motor, it's Summit source, listed at 14.95US plus whatever shipping costs. I was looking for something else electronic , and just remembered your search-they had it listed under C-band parts in the Satellite section.