Grounding question

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m39976

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Nov 9, 2005
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I have 225' of r6 without ground wire the D** guys installed form my dish to the house. There is a ground block about 75' from the dish.
Can I run a ground wire to the block 75' away or do I need to run it 225' to the house? Is there a ground rod I can locate closer to the dish?

Thanks for any help.
 
m39976 said:
I have 225' of r6 without ground wire the D** guys installed form my dish to the house. There is a ground block about 75' from the dish.
Can I run a ground wire to the block 75' away or do I need to run it 225' to the house? Is there a ground rod I can locate closer to the dish?

Thanks for any help.
You can place a ground rod out at the dish if you want.
Ideally the ground should happen at the house, tied in with the house ground.
 
The Ground Rods must be bonded (connected properly) with # 6 bare copper, every 20 feet, and bonded (connected properly) to the Utility Ground (at the house)... If you are not an electrician, then I would suggest that you spend a little money, to keep from killing someone, or at the very least to keep from burning down your house... It's your house, however!!!
 
Doctor Bob said:
The Ground Rods must be bonded (connected properly) with # 6 bare copper, every 20 feet, and bonded (connected properly) to the Utility Ground (at the house)... If you are not an electrician, then I would suggest that you spend a little money, to keep from killing someone, or at the very least to keep from burning down your house... It's your house, however!!!


Where do you get Bare copper from? and every 20 ft? You saying you want a ground rod every 20 ft?
 
m39976 said:
I have 225' of r6 without ground wire the D** guys installed form my dish to the house. There is a ground block about 75' from the dish.
Can I run a ground wire to the block 75' away or do I need to run it 225' to the house? Is there a ground rod I can locate closer to the dish?

Thanks for any help.

Just wondering, why is the dish so far away...? I didn't think I would run rg6 that far... but hey if it works...
 
The dish is 225' away because I'm in a valley on Lake michigan. The dish is on the dune facing the lake. Can't I just ground the dish with a rod where it sits?
 
m39976 said:
The dish is 225' away because I'm in a valley on Lake michigan. The dish is on the dune facing the lake. Can't I just ground the dish with a rod where it sits?

No, it must be at the same potential as the dwelling (bonded to the dwellings ground), otherwise, even a relatively nearby strike may have energy that travels on the ground, and if your equipment is connected to grounds of different potential, current could flow between, and being it's lightning, it could be enough to render your equipment into doorstops.
 
So should I run 10 gauge copper line 225' from the dish to the house like dtv does?
 
m39976 said:
So should I run 10 gauge copper line 225' from the dish to the house like dtv does?

Yes [*], make sure there are NO kinks, or sharp bends in the bonding run, it must be as straight a run as possible, if you use a conduit for the coax run from the dish, try and use non metallic, if you do use a metallic conduit, it too will have to be bonded to the dwelling and the rod.


[*]: The thicker, the better.
 
Last edited:
m39976 said:
So should I run 10 gauge copper line 225' from the dish to the house like dtv does?

Here is my advice, and because I am an Electrician, I'm only going to refer you to your local County or City Inspector... DO NOT RUN 225' OF 10 GA. WIRE.... I will not go into a long disertation, about why and why not, but if you do not get some professional advice, from a local source, then you are going to be in trouble...

Feel free to call me, if you have any questions!!!
 
Can you explain the reason for needing to install ground rods every 20 feet? If the intent is to bond the antenna and utility ground together, that can be accomplished with the buried wire (#2 solid tinned copper is great stuff), but I don't see how the ground rods will assist in the bonding... dissipation of a surge, but not equalizing potentials.

If you do run that long of a piece of copper and bury it, then where you have to splice copper wire together, you should really look at using an exothermic bond (Cadweld one-shot is cheap and easy). Mechanical connections underground just have a bad habit of corroding and rendering the bonding ineffective.
 
madgrizzle said:
Can you explain the reason for needing to install ground rods every 20 feet? If the intent is to bond the antenna and utility ground together, that can be accomplished with the buried wire (#2 solid tinned copper is great stuff), but I don't see how the ground rods will assist in the bonding... dissipation of a surge, but not equalizing potentials.

If you do run that long of a piece of copper and bury it, then where you have to splice copper wire together, you should really look at using an exothermic bond (Cadweld one-shot is cheap and easy). Mechanical connections underground just have a bad habit of corroding and rendering the bonding ineffective.

Really??? You also need to contact your local inspector, and it might help if you pick up a used NEC book or go to your local library and look it up, or you may want to go to the largest site on Web, for grounding and bonding, and that would be, www.mikeholt.com ...
 
madgrizzle said:
Can you explain the reason for needing to install ground rods every 20 feet? If the intent is to bond the antenna and utility ground together, that can be accomplished with the buried wire (#2 solid tinned copper is great stuff), but I don't see how the ground rods will assist in the bonding... dissipation of a surge, but not equalizing potentials.

If you do run that long of a piece of copper and bury it, then where you have to splice copper wire together, you should really look at using an exothermic bond (Cadweld one-shot is cheap and easy). Mechanical connections underground just have a bad habit of corroding and rendering the bonding ineffective.

wow... now i've heard everything...
 
Grounding the dish is for electrical safety, not lightning protection. Preventing damage from lightning is way beyond what the average person can ever accomplish. It would also cost more than the dish install, your entire home entertainment center and possibly your car. Do what others have said and get advice from a local electrician or inspector who can get you to code.
Bob
 
Doctor Bob said:
The Ground Rods must be bonded (connected properly) with # 6 bare copper, every 20 feet, and bonded (connected properly) to the Utility Ground (at the house)...

My question was regarding this statement. It lead me to question whether or not the poster meant that ground rods every 20 feet was required (I didn't find it in the NEC). I know of this practice being used for lightning protection (I've used it myself to ground radio towers), but as one poster said, the purpose here is safety, not lightning protection.

As for #2 AWG solid copper tinned wire, it's costly (copper being a commodity) but I wouldn't call it a Cadillac. I've seen a project where 1.5 miles of 4.5-inch wide oxygen-free flat copper strap shipped in from Sweden was used as a buried ground conductor for tower sites. Now you have really heard everything.

When it comes to splicing ground wires underground, mechanical connections are just not adequate due to corrosion problems. Exothermic bonds, when done right, fuse the materials together so that there is no chance of corrosion forming between the wires. One-shots are $9 a pop last time I checked, but you will never need to worry about it going bad and that's what matter. Who is going to go out, dig a hole, and inspect a buried ground connection on a regular basis?

Regardless, call in someone that knows the code. Local electrician and/or inspector.

Though I do have one question for the original post. You said that there is a ground block 75 away from the dish and the dish is 225 feet away from the house. Am I correct in assuming the ground block is 150 feet away from the house? If so, what is the ground block doing out there? Did the installer use it to splice coax cables together or something?
 
I don’t know the correct answer to this one as I’m not a licensed electrician and this extreme distance has not come up on one of my jobs yet. But I can say if it were my house and it required 225ft, I would use RG-11 to cut down on the signal loss and place a ground block within 20ft of the nearest house ground and bond with #10 copper as a temporary solution until the local inspector gave me the answer.
Bob
 
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