DTE-7150/DSR-4800 Battery Replacement

[Anony55]

+1 from me about wanting to see the other side of the board. I'll be popping covers on my units pretty soon anyway, so I'll get to see both sides in any event. But it would be good to get the other side of that board in public view just the same.

Since the original battery is 3.0v, I wonder if that additional .6 volts on that 3.6v battery would do any harm. I've seen this discussed before among DSR920/922 users. I don't remember if there was ever a definitive answer on the subject (or if it would even apply in the case of this commercial receiver).

Cheers

 

[Bongu]

Okay, I have 2 people that want a photo of the bottom of the ACE board. I will post when I get home tonight.

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[Bongu]

All heck broke loose last night. I'll up the picture Saturday night.

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[dotbatman]

Here are the points on the bottom of the ACE board.

 

[Bongu]

Here is the picture of mine. Sorry it took so long.

 

[Anony55]

Thank you both for those pics.

It kinda looks like the unused negative hole is blocked by the existing battery. If we tried to put a new battery on the back of the board (coin style with solder tabs), I'm not sure how we could make the negative connection with the original battery still on the board.

Of course, I could be mentally matching up the pics of the two sides wrong too. I just need to break down and pull one out where I can study it from all different angles.

Cheers

 

[Bongu]

The unused negative hole IS blocked by the battery. Here are pictures showing the extra hole locations on top of the board.

 

[Anony55]

Hmmm, those are the best pictures yet. It looks like the legs might be tall enough to flex the existing battery towards the positive side enough to be able to solder the negative leg coming in from the other side of the board.

The biggest danger I can see is if you let your soldering iron tip touch the positive side of the existing battery at the same time it's touching the negative leg of the new battery. But it does look like a guy could do a little flexing & hit it from just the right angle. In fact, there may even be enough room to do it without any flexing if you have a fine enough tip.

If a fella wanted to try and shield the critical point during soldering with some sort of insulator, it would have to be non-metallic & non-meltable.

Now we just need to determine if the coin battery with tabs (posted earlier in this thread) would be the correct size & value.

Again, thanks for that last set of pics!

Cheers

 

[Anony55]

After looking & thinking further... forget what I said about "flexing" and "tip angles". The mounting holes are the type that can be soldered from either side of the board. So we could just solder them from the same side of the board that the new battery is going onto. Then after removing the old battery, you could add a little more from the other side (being careful not to make your existing connection flow away from the legs).

This is looking more "do-able" all the time.

Cheers

 

[brex2001]

Sorry for taking so long...my DSR4810s were packed away for my move to Oregon.

Here are pics of the first battery change. I had found a Tadirans 3.6v with stranded wire leads. If you notice the dbl row of pins on the topside of the board, the one closest to the "C" is connected to the negative battery trace on the board(8th pin from right closest to "C"). I piggybacked another battery from a 922 to the "C" pin & the open positive hole, then soldered in the Tadirans TL-5242/W battery. Then removed the backup 922 battery & coin cell. All without removing the board from the mainboard.

I think I'll use the TL-5101 next time on my 2nd 4810.

Does this process remind anyone else of the 3 peg stacked ring puzzle? Ha!

 

[Anony55]

...I had found a Tadirans 3.6v with stranded wire leads...

...I think I'll use the TL-5101 next time on my 2nd 4810...

Nice work Brex. I'm guessing by your battery selection that you are not worried about the extra .6 volts?

Cheers

 

[brex2001]

Nice work Brex. I'm guessing by your battery selection that you are not worried about the extra .6 volts?

Cheers

Thanks!
No, none too worried about the 0.6V, after all, most lithium cells already dated & lower than 3.6v by the time we get them.

 

[stecle]

Can't beat this price on lithium battery's. Under $5 shipped to your door.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/221014697696?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 

[Anony55]

...it looks to me like what we really need is a BR2335SM. The "non SM" is just a regular coin with no solder tabs...

Further research leaves me needing to correct myself. The battery that we really need (if you want 100% original style replacement) is the BR2335T2. The SM also has tabs, but the T2 has the identical tabs as the original battery. Now finding a place that sells fresh new ones that aren't old stock already, in QTYs less than 50 might take a little looking.

But it does appear to me that another T2 would fit in the empty holes with plenty of physical room on the opposite side of the board. If that's truly the case, I would think that would be the most simple & safe replacement method.

Anyone that runs across a good supplier of fresh T2s at a reasonable price... please feel free to chime in.

Cheers

 

[brex2001]

Here's the Tadirans TL-5242 & it's velcro backed for easy attach/detach($11.10 ea @ Alliedelec):
Tadiran - TL-5242/W - Batteries - Battery - Allied Electronics
And here's a Panasonic high temp cell:
Panasonic - BR2330A/HD - Batteries - Battery - Allied Electronics

 

[Anony55]

Here's the Tadirans TL-5242 & it's velcro backed for easy attach/detach($11.10 ea @ Alliedelec):
Tadiran - TL-5242/W - Batteries - Battery - Allied Electronics

Well that's one ugly battery. BUT, with a rating of 1500 mAh it should last as long as the unit... or maybe even longer than us. Keep in mind that the mAh rating is basically how much fuel is in the battery. The original is only rated at 300 mAh, and your Panasonic replacement (BR2330A) is only rated at 255 mAh.

Unless I'm doing my battery research incorrectly, it looks like your ugly battery might be the best one. And with twisted leads, probably the easiest to install.

Cheers

 

[brex2001]

"Unless I'm doing my battery research incorrectly, it looks like your ugly battery might be the best one. And with twisted leads, probably the easiest to install."

Can't see my ugly battery from your house! LOL

 

[Bongu]

I just finished the battery replacement on mine last night. I ended up using one of the "ugly batteries" due to availability. I velcro'd the battery to a clear area of the main board. The battery I used was rated 1.8Ah at 3.65 volts. It measured at 3.70 volts.

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[Anony55]

I just finished the battery replacement on mine last night...

Another unit saved! Once I settle up on battery type, I'll be saving 4 more 4800s & 3 more 4500Xs.

I found a Tadiran 2/3AA lithium battery with axial pin leads that's rated at 1650 mAh (TL-5955/PBP). It looks like it might be a good way to go & would probably work in both models. I'll have to look inside the 4800 again. I'm thinking that if the battery leads are long enough that it would probably fit suspended in the air (held by the leads) in a horizontal fashion beside the ACE. That should give enough room for the top cover to fit back on. It would fit in the 4500x for sure.

After reseaching what "mAh" means, I've pretty much decided against going back with an original battery that's only rated 300 mAh. In theory, the ugly battery & the 2/3AA I found should last 5 times longer than the original. I'd be surprised if that was all the way true. But still, a higher rating should provide longer life.

Cheers

 

[Bongu]

A longer life OR a bigger mess if it leaks on you......

The coin cell battery I removed was reading 3.06 volts when I removed it. It probably had a few more years left in it , but preventive maintenance is better than scrapping the unit for parts.

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