Do I need a re-peak?

[120inna55]

I keep track of signal strength and record it to a spreadsheet.

I just briefly lost signal on my local Fox during the game which prompted me to check signal strength when it came back.

The strengths were low and I noticed this trend since January:

61.5 in March were 50's to 60's--> now 30's
72.7 in March were in the 50's --> now 20's to 30's
77 in March were in the mid to upper 40's -->now low 40's

Also, what key transponders should I be checking for my DMA of Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX?

 

[120inna55]

Hold the phone.

We have a 622 and a 722 going to the same TV, just for tuner redundancy. We primarily use the 622, only occasionally going to the 722 if all the tuners on the 622 are occupied.

Well, lately, the 622 has been having hard drive issues, so we've been making the 722 our primary receiver. (I've got a Hopper install on the way, so both these units will be gone next week).

I realized my spreadsheet data has been coming from the 622. I was essentially assessing the dish itself, not the tuners.

You probably see where this is going...

I just checked the strengths on the 622 and they are where they've always been. I re-checked the 722 and they are still poor. I checked both tuners on each receiver, and the end result is, I have my typical signal strengths on the 622 and poor strengths on the 722. Since I was only occasionally using the 722, who knows how long this has been going on.

My setup is a 1000.4 that's 130' from the receivers. Dual coax (the orange kind that can be buried) is buried and run to the house and connects to a ground block on the outside of the house immediately behind the receivers. From the ground block, 2 coax's go through the wall to each receiver (with a separator on the end of each one to occupy each tuner.)

Is it safe to say, at this point, that my issue occurs somewhere at or after the ground block? I would imagine if there was an issue at the 1000.4 or the buried coax, my signal strength issues wouldn't be isolated to just one receiver, right?

The reason this is now an issue, even though both receivers are going to be gone next week, I want to ensure my Hopper has appropriate signal strength coming to it. I assume the installer will just replace the ground block with the Solo Node and then use one of my existing coax's going into the house (I'm not getting a Joey). If it's a coax issue, I want to make sure he doesn't try to use that one.

 

[boba]

Tell the installer about your problem when he comes out and he can take appropriate action.

 

[120inna55]

Tell the installer about your problem when he comes out and he can take appropriate action.

I intend to, but I'll feel like a jerk asking him to troubleshoot something that wasn't in the work order.

 

[dwarren2]

Try doing a System Info test. If your getting lnb drift, it will report it. Status will be in box a.

 

[120inna55]

Try doing a System Info test. If your getting lnb drift, it will report it. Status will be in box a.

Yeah, I saw you mention that in another thread. Box "a" says "good".

 

[MrDogDad]

Is it safe to say, at this point, that my issue occurs somewhere at or after the ground block? I would imagine if there was an issue at the 1000.4 or the buried coax, my signal strength issues wouldn't be isolated to just one receiver, right?

Actually it could be at the 1000.4 or grounding block as well. There is a switch built-into the LNB which could be bad.
If you feel like troubleshooting, swapping the cables at the grounding block going to each receiver will tell you if the problem is in front of or behind the block.
If the signal strengths improve on the 622 then the problem is in the grounding block, cable to the LNB or the LNB itself.

 

[120inna55]

...If the signal strengths improve on the 622 then the problem is in the grounding block, cable to the LNB or the LNB itself.

Do you mean if the signal strengths improve on the 722? As it is, the 622 is providing the same strengths it's had since I got the 1000.4. It's the 722 that's showing poor signals.

So, you mean if I essentially just swap the 2 outputs on the grounding block and the 722 improves (and conversely the 622 degrades), then I'll know it's the block or more proximal?

 

[MrDogDad]

Yes, that is what I meant. If after the swap, you see a change then you know it's in front of the block. If there is no change, then there is a bad connector or cable between the block and the 722 or the separator, or 722 itself is the problem.

 

[thamac]

I had the same issue back when I had 2 - 722's. One had good signal the other not so good. I tried several cable fixes but finally narrowed it down to a bad 722. Had a tech come out and swap the box and all was good. I ended up upgrading to a HWS/H/2J system a few weeks later.

 

[120inna55]

...finally narrowed it down to a bad 722...

I actually hope that's the case for me since the 622 and 722 are going bye bye as of Saturday, the 14th, when my HWS is installed.

 

[dwarren2]

Have you downloaded all your recordings to an ehd?

 

[120inna55]

Have you downloaded all your recordings to an ehd?

I did on the 622, but not the 722. It has just a couple recordings on it. Again, we rarely used the 722 until the 622 started having HDD issues a couple weeks ago.

 

[jc1975]

I've seen a lot of 722 go bad with issue you are describing. Essentially signal strength is almost cut in half at 722. A good end to end check would still be appropriate, but I'm sure 722 is the issue and your dish is still pointed properly. Since you are upgrading to a hopper next week, all will be well soon enough. I'd just make sure 3ghz rated cable gets run to hopper locations if it isn't already when tech arrives.

 

[120inna55]

Beats me what's buried. It's 130' of that orange dual coax that can be buried without conduit. I DO know it's RG6 & so is the coax coming off the ground block into the back of my receivers.

Sent from my Samsung GS3

 

[120inna55]

...swapping the cables at the grounding block going to each receiver will tell you if the problem is in front of or behind the block...

Just to be clear, we're talking about just swapping the 2 cable outputs on the house side of the block (essentially a 30 second procedure). I won't be messing with the coax coming into the block from the dish, right? And this is a silly question, but if I do this cable swap with the receivers off (standby) will they still each perform a reboot/check switch?

 

[MrDogDad]

Yes, the receivers don't care which connector on the LNB they are connected to. I don't know if you will need to do a check switch after the swap, but it wouldn't hurt.

 

[jc1975]

Sorry if this got off topic a little from your questions regarding your 722. I just wanted to arm you with more information for your pending upgrade, so you could make sure all was well when your hopper gets installed.

I'm sure the orange burial cable to the ground block is fine. RG6 that's tested for 3ghz is what's important between node and hopper. That's not to say it can't or will not work, just that it's possible that you could experience signal loss on tuner 3 due to the higher frequency range required. I usually just err on the side of caution and replace any cable going to a hopper that I can't see 3ghz printed on its outer jacket. Judging by pic of your install in other thread. Looks like cable immediately on house side of ground block is 3ghz rated grey RG6 that we used to carry. If that's whats going to your hopper location, looks like an easy upgrade.

 

[120inna55]

... Judging by pic of your install in other thread. Looks like cable immediately on house side of ground block is 3ghz rated grey RG6 that we used to carry. If that's whats going to your hopper location, looks like an easy upgrade.

You have a good eye. I just got home and had a look. It's stamped with "3GHZ".

Sent from my Samsung GS3

 

[120inna55]

...If after the swap, you see a change then you know it's in front of the block. If there is no change, then there is a bad connector or cable between the block and the 722 or the separator, or 722 itself is the problem.

Ok, I just swapped them. There was no change even after a check switch. The 722 is consistently getting about half the signal strength that the 622 is getting --- same scenario as prior to switching connections.

So, now we know the problem does not lie with the LNB, switch, or buried cable from the dish. The problem is either the block, or the coax after it, or the 722 itself.

Do I have that much correct, so far?

...I had the same issue back when I had 2 - 722's. One had good signal the other not so good. I tried several cable fixes but finally narrowed it down to a bad 722. Had a tech come out and swap the box and all was good...

...I've seen a lot of 722 go bad with issue you are describing. Essentially signal strength is almost cut in half at 722...

Now, given those statements is it safe to assume I probably have one of those defective boxes?

I know it could be the coax itself, but at present it's so clean looking, I'd hate to pull 3GHz coax out of the wall that's only been there 3 years and looks great (nice loops and all). Can the installer check the integrity of these cables prior to just pulling them without much fuss? Or from his point of view would it be easier just to start from scratch?