Thanks Tron, great info, I did not know this and wouldn't have thought of it. The only logical reason I had come up with to do a switch this way, was to save on wire, length as well as cost. Never knew it could possibly burn a switch up. I'll just have to chance it, cause I'm using 3 dishes and all 4 ports (2 switches), running 2 DVB boxes and my dishes are not located together or even close, but in opposite directions. With the receivers, more or less in a central location. Besides the old C/ku BUD wiring had been in place for decades. Don't think I'm ready to rewire, just to prevent a possible burnt up switch. Although I've just ordered a 1.2 meter motorized dish from Sadoun for upgrading an 80cm dish, as well as a Coolsat 5000 as an extra receiver (can't ever have enough) from a non-sponser merchant. I'll start looking into alternative wiring solutions and see if I'm willing to make any changes. It'll probably come down to where I choose to place the new dish. And how much extra work (I'm lazy) will be involved.Tron said:If you have a motorized dish, you will want your switch to be between the LNBF and the motor:
Reciever -> Motor -> DiSEqC Switch -> LNBF
This is because the current operating the motor can burn up the switch prematurely if its between the motor and the receiver.
Unfortunately, this usually means installing the switch on or near the dish(es), and in the weather (unless you use a drop box of some sort).
Iceberg said:Tron
I used a switch between the recever and motor for almost 2 years with no issues. I had a LOS issue so I set it up as
receiver-------------switch port 1--------------motor-----------lnb
-----------------------switch port 2--------------------------------second dish/lnb
been there done thatAs Pete said, always disconnect power completely before changing up any of your coax connections. Not doing that will almost assure you of a fried switch