Alrightey then. Let's give this a go. You appear to use combo c/ku lnbf's. So your c/ku positions should be exactly the same. Since they look in the same place and any satellite that has c&ku transponders. Your stored locations in the dish mover will be the same. And your receiver diseqc position would be the same.
Take for instance looking at the tvro lists. Look at 99.2 W. There are both bands with receivable FTA channels.
Now. If you need for someone to provide those positions to you. That's another thing.
I use 127W as "home base". On my mover the position is 0000 and stored in memory 1.
If (and it will happen as you sweep the arc) the settings get out of kilter. Returning to 127W. Using the dish mover controls to move the dish back to peak the signal. And using the resync, reset position function. Puts your overall satellite positions in alignment.
Huh? What's this guy talking about?
My personal experience. I found 127W. It's set at 0000 on the counter (actuator encoder counts).
Next sat is 125W. Its signal is highest at 135 and stored in the mover in position 2.
Lets zoom up to 99W. Where is it? Set the receiver to a strong C band tp and assign the mover to use memory position 10 for it. Set the receiver tuner setup to use diseqc position 10.
Move the dish until you finally find 99W (let's drop the decimal. okay?).
To peak signal. You have to use the dish mover controls to move the dish East/West. Until the signal as as strong as it can get. Make sure that you are actually on 99W and not a neighbor. Then. Satisfied. Stab the position into the mover memory.
Fine. Let's try 97W. It's a touch East of 99W. Setup the receiver to tune to a strong tp on it. Set the mover for the memory position you please. How about 11?
The counter for 99W was (let's say) 950. So you move the dish until you snag 97W. Make sure it's actually 97W.
Go East. Go West. Until you get the strongest signal. The counter on the mover is....1025. Stab that position in the mover's memory.
Now subtract 97's position from 99's position. Don't forget we have a 0.2 degree increase for 2 degree separation in the satellites. We get a difference of 75. Jot it on a sheet of ruled paper.
97W 1025
............75 difference 2.2 deg.
99.2W 950
Get all setup to grab 101W. Receiver, mover memory slot chosen. Do it again. Peak the signal and store the location.
Now. "Bumping" the dish all over the place is going to add errors in the positions. Accept that it will happen.
The italics above are your eraser marks as you go forward.
You've found 101W. Peaked the signal for it. Stored the position. Maybe even scanned in the channels. Jotted down the settings.
Pull your socks up. Return to 127W. Your home, or reference satellite. What happened to the signal? It's probably weaker that it initially was. Right? So you move the dish to make it strong again. And find that the counter for it used to be 0000 but for strongest signal it's now + 0016. That's the price we pay for bumping that dish all over the place.
It's cool. Enter the resync or reset position menu and commit the function. And it returns to 0000.
All the following satellites after your 2nd, 3rd, 4th sat will most probably show incremental signal strength decreases.
But moving the dish with the remote until peaked and storing the positions again should allow you to zoom down to 127 or 125 and back again to it with hardly any signal difference at all. And you can do it for some while.
As long as you don't continually bump the dish for each and every satellite to get that last 0.1 dB.
So. Advice is to when initially finding and storing satellites is to frequently return to the home sat and resync.
Now. As far as your polar mount geometry and linear actuator goes. Everyone will be different. And you may find that for lower arc sats, for example, may have a 130-140 mover count difference in 2 degree spacing.
But as the dish goes higher in the arc those numbers decrease. 101 to 103 may be only 115 count difference.
Best advice is to look at the sat charts and decide which channels you would like to try to receive.
I mentioned upgrading your receiver. Because many broadcast, etc. channels are in 4:2:2 video format and watching them requires an offboard program such as VLC or Kodi to watch.
My opinion and I'll stick with it is to ponder a Linux Enigma2 receiver over a firmware based one.
Over!
