Can't win for losing - strike three on attempted new install

Status
Please reply by conversation.
Found this on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-ft-RG6-QUAD-SHIELD-coaxial-TV-F-cable-BEST-QUALITY-3GHz-UL-solid-copper-/380480484822

Does this looks like the right stuff? Sounds like a decent deal. Might still try to find some locally first.

Look around, you could get a whole roll for $50
http://www.cablewholesale.com/products/fire-security-cables/rg6/product-10x4-022nh.php

That was just a pick off the search, not promoting them or saying to get it there ...
They may have it at the local Lowes and HD as well.

I personally use the stuff I got from Claude (on site) ...

RG6, NOT Quad.
 
Do you know what differences there are between the three ?
Is it frequencies they pass ?

Thanks for the offer .... but... I don't want anything to do with "the round room with padded walls" !
I've seen blue ,green and the orange ones. We had a discussion about it here once upon a time and it came down to different manufacturers use different colors. :)
 
It could be that SCC (solid core copper) is required by his company to pass inspection. It's my understanding that it's only required from the power inserter to the lnb. Maybe one of the installers can clarify that for you.

As an installer..........I just know the closer to responsibility the greater the BS. SC or CCS is interchangeable for this application. IF the installer is an employee and has been told to use SC that is what will be issued to him and he should do so....using material with a ground line attached. IF he is a contractor he should have a specification that states what cable is to be used. What he told is just not true.....ya just have to guess the source of the BS.

In any case the installation is FREE and that run from the dish / LND to the groubd block is part of the deal. Let him do what he wants. Modify it later.

Joe
 
As an installer..........I just know the closer to responsibility the greater the BS. SC or CCS is interchangeable for this application. IF the installer is an employee and has been told to use SC that is what will be issued to him and he should do so....using material with a ground line attached. IF he is a contractor he should have a specification that states what cable is to be used. What he told is just not true.....ya just have to guess the source of the BS.

Joe

Thanks Joe - that's kind of what I thought. He did show me his cable, and I noticed the ground wire you mentioned. Is that needed for lightning protection?

In any case the installation is FREE and that run from the dish / LND to the groubd block is part of the deal. Let him do what he wants. Modify it later.

I'm afraid if I let them do what they want the thing will be mounted above my front door and I'll have cable stapled all over the outside of the house. ;)
 
Thanks Joe - that's kind of what I thought. He did show me his cable, and I noticed the ground wire you mentioned. Is that needed for lightning protection?



I'm afraid if I let them do what they want the thing will be mounted above my front door and I'll have cable stapled all over the outside of the house. ;)
Sometimes you can't avoid exposed coax, other times you can.
 
Exposed wire is not so bad if done neatly, following contours of the house, properly attached, etc.
 
The No Barrell thing is not true ... You essentially have the same thing at the Ground Block.

Not true :D

We can't use a dish feed with a barrel in it. If there is a barrel in line the. The system isn't grounded in Directv's eyes ;)
 
So you don't use Ground Blocks anymore ?

We do but if there is a barrel between the dish and ground block or switch (switches can be grounded too) the. It's not considered grounded at that point since the messenger wire isn't solid from dish to ground source
 
We do but if there is a barrel between the dish and ground block or switch (switches can be grounded too) the. It's not considered grounded at that point since the messenger wire isn't solid from dish to ground source

I'm just asking here, if your not using a Ground block for grounding and the switch is inside, (the newer set ups are most of the time), how are you guys grounding the system ?
 
Thanks Joe - that's kind of what I thought. He did show me his cable, and I noticed the ground wire you mentioned. Is that needed for lightning protection?



I'm afraid if I let them do what they want the thing will be mounted above my front door and I'll have cable stapled all over the outside of the house. ;)

FIRST:That ground wire is NOT lightning protection. Because there is current flowing to and from the LNB the ground wire is there to dump stray voltage. Also there is a slight possibility of static buildup and the ground will dissipate that. The ground wire should be stripped from the cable that is used in the service loops and not coiled but rather bypass the loops.

SEOND:The installer will work with you on dish location. He will want the shortest run possible from the dish to the area of the main ground rod......from there the interior runs begin. IF he comes up with a dish location that is unacceptable to you just stop the transaction. He won't have or use conduit. The dish may end up on a pole......price,if any,varies. He will tack cable neatly to the building with an approved plastic cable clip. Brick walls, maybe not. He may have a cable staple gun but the staples should be plastic.

Once all the equipment is running you are free to modify it. IF you disable your system and they need a truck roll to fix it they will charge you for that service. Maybe not if you sign up for the protection plan.

Joe
 
Thanks for the informative reply, Joe. Is the extra ground wire required? In other words, it I purchased my own RG6 SC coax and ran it myself so that it is hidden, would it be up to their standards for QC if it does not have that wire?

At this point I would be happy to sign a waiver to try it with the existing cable, and then replace it if I have problems. Of course, if I do that, they might was their hands of it.

Hate to say it, but at this point I am wondering if the requirements are quite as stringent for DISH's Hopper. I already have their service. However, as many have found, you don't get the "new customer" love like you do when you switch.
 
Thanks for the informative reply, Joe. Is the extra ground wire required? In other words, it I purchased my own RG6 SC coax and ran it myself so that it is hidden, would it be up to their standards for QC if it does not have that wire?

At this point I would be happy to sign a waiver to try it with the existing cable, and then replace it if I have problems. Of course, if I do that, they might was their hands of it.

Hate to say it, but at this point I am wondering if the requirements are quite as stringent for DISH's Hopper. I already have their service. However, as many have found, you don't get the "new customer" love like you do when you switch.

As a generalization, IF you already have DISH you are now good to go. There are some minor rerun details but almost all cables & the dish location are an EZ switch. I think there is a code requirement to use the next larger size ground wire if it is not bonded to the sat cable. But, again there should already be a ground line cable with the DISH rig. There are millions of ungrounded systems (like every apartment installation) that work without issue. I think you are getting new-guy information about how this stuff works.

You are correct about the new customer kiss 'n hug period.

Joe
 
I'm just asking here, if your not using a Ground block for grounding and the switch is inside, (the newer set ups are most of the time), how are you guys grounding the system ?

We use ground blocks. If the messenger wire that's bonded to the dish isn't sold going to the ground block or switch (depending on what we use to ground) it's a fail. If the switch is inside then we use a ground block outside, if the switch is going to be mounted close to the grounding source then we use the switch.
 
We use ground blocks. If the messenger wire that's bonded to the dish isn't sold going to the ground block or switch (depending on what we use to ground) it's a fail. If the switch is inside then we use a ground block outside, if the switch is going to be mounted close to the grounding source then we use the switch.

Hutch,
Do you get situations where the switch ends up outdoors......but is not approved for outdoor use......even though it is under a roof or porch?
Or the other one where the switch has a lug for a ground wire but cannot be grounded because it is in the structure and the ground bond is inaccessible?

I look to technical situations where the hardware can be lashed together to function but over ridged requirements cost a job every once in a while. Or am I wrong that the SWM splitter cannot go outdoors?

Joe
 
I thought all switches were approved for outside installations.
 
Hutch, Do you get situations where the switch ends up outdoors......but is not approved for outdoor use......even though it is under a roof or porch? Or the other one where the switch has a lug for a ground wire but cannot be grounded because it is in the structure and the ground bond is inaccessible? I look to technical situations where the hardware can be lashed together to function but over ridged requirements cost a job every once in a while. Or am I wrong that the SWM splitter cannot go outdoors? Joe

Chip nailed it, they're all approved for indoor/outdoor use
 
The weather was nice today (finally) so I climbed up on the roof and took a close line at the coax that is feeding the DISH dual LNB setup that is there now. On the jacket is marked: Vextra dual RG6 3000 MHZ 75 OHM 9700851 2/18 AWG CMX. I don't know if it is solid copper conductor or copper clad steel conductor, but everything else seems to say that this cable should be fine to use. Don't see how 21 volts could ever "burn it out" like the installer was claiming.
 
The weather was nice today (finally) so I climbed up on the roof and took a close line at the coax that is feeding the DISH dual LNB setup that is there now. On the jacket is marked: Vextra dual RG6 3000 MHZ 75 OHM 9700851 2/18 AWG CMX. I don't know if it is solid copper conductor or copper clad steel conductor, but everything else seems to say that this cable should be fine to use. Don't see how 21 volts could ever "burn it out" like the installer was claiming.

Your fine with the coax you have.
 
Status
Please reply by conversation.

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Total: 0, Members: 0, Guests: 0)

Who Read This Thread (Total Members: 1)

Top