see now this is a much easier upgrade if possible just attach to gear from pot leave every thing existing and its optical how many wires run this thoughThis would do it then. Had them in industrial machines up to 1024 p/r.
At 100 p/r for a 10 turn pot replacement you would get 1000 pulses.
Did the math. I'm looking at 133W to 47.5W at 1038 pulses/counts.
My West limit switch is at 20 and the screw turned out 5 turns from from its hard limit of "oops no more threads".
133 is positioned at 143 counts. 47.5 is at 1038. Dish flop happens shortly after that so the East limit is, oh, 1050.
The encoder physically resembles a pot with a shaft flat for a set screw. Look at US Digital's site for documentation.
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can anybody identify this actuator and sensor
- Thread starter lance007
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1st if your controller is selectable for pot/reed/hall sensors you're cool.
You'll really need to do a little work yourself as far as dimensions and looking up a compatible unit.
US Digital are some good guys. They sell direct.
I don't know your controller. If in hall sensor mode if the pulse input is expecting voltage/current or is a switch closure (like a reed switch).
That would make the difference of an open collector (switch) or current sourcing output on the sensor.
I'm not even sure if you have any electronics background. Things that are simple sometimes aren't to others.
That's an old freakin' actuator.
my controller Is a ancient uniden sq560 that I found in my house when I moved in in the sq560 manual it only list 3 sensors that its compatible with reed,optical,hall lol more info of what I have lol . the dish I got from a neighbor that did not want it I removed it and he had no controller or equipment when he bought the house
Switch closure. Single pole normally open. Make sure you learn proper magnet type and placement or you'll get count errors. You have to use an adequately large magnet to trip the reed correctly.
From the photos with the fact that you have that much gear reduction to drive the 10 turn pot you probably won't get that much resolution on your counts. What is your dish mover? Do you have a link to the manual?
Why not go the encoder route? It would be very precise.
I think I'm gonna buy a few reeds magnets and the encoder gonna tinker lol also the encoder sounds more practical for counts also I cant find any option in my uniden sq560 to change what sensor I'm using In manual it says its compliant with reed optical and hall hopefully just works when hooked up
with this encoder method will it be 3 wire tho and should i buy that exact one from link shared???
with this encoder method will it be 3 wire tho and should i buy that exact one from link shared???
I'm going to hook you up. I called US Digital. Nobody at home yet.
Do me a favor. Get me some good close ups with a good ruler to see what your pot looks like, how it's fastened, get me the shaft diameter and length. Hell. Take it right out since that's what you'll have to do anyway.
How is the gear on it fastened? Set screw or press fit?
I need to see how much physical room is inside and around the pot too. As in how much clearence if we replace it. Deal?
Also get me some real good photos of the back of your controller. I need to know what pins for sensor hookups are there.
If it's hall capable. No biggie. If it's reed capable. No biggie.
Just get me them there photos. And make 'em good ones. lol!
I always ask my clients the same thing. "What's your budget?".
Josh at US Digital just called. Waiting on an email with attachments.
Okay. The encoders have sourcing outputs. Meaning that unlike a reed switch, the ground and output terminal(s) will provide +5V when the encoder pulses.
So to solve that little hurdle they make a line driver that plugs right on the end of the encoder to provide a switch output.
Being the easiest solution to swap out the pot without replacing the whole actuator.
All we need is dimensional information to see if we can get something matched up.
Andele' Andele'....hah
Josh at US Digital just called. Waiting on an email with attachments.
Okay. The encoders have sourcing outputs. Meaning that unlike a reed switch, the ground and output terminal(s) will provide +5V when the encoder pulses.
So to solve that little hurdle they make a line driver that plugs right on the end of the encoder to provide a switch output.
Being the easiest solution to swap out the pot without replacing the whole actuator.
All we need is dimensional information to see if we can get something matched up.
Andele' Andele'....hah
its a helipot 8535 by looking it's a plastic gear screw on no press fit dont have my micrometer here but looks around 1/4 inch shaft plastic worm gear drives it one ten mm nut holds it in place hope u can see in pictures lots of room for this encoder I believe
Good deal.
Next is a few things.
You'll have to see my attachments for dimensional drawings to see how the S-1's match up to the room you have inside your case.
Find out how many turns the pot is actually turning from the furthest west sat to the furthest east or limit to limit.
That will help you in determining which S-1 to choose.
If the pot spins 8 turns and you select an S-1 that delivers 32 counts per revolution. 8X32=256. Not very good between-sat resolution. You'd be constantly hitting a sat and tweaking the E-W position to peak signal. If you hit it at all.
If you choose one that delivers 100ppr...no fingers or toes needed there. 800 pulses for 131-47W would be pretty good.
A 200 ppr unit would be even better IF your receiver could count that high. That I don't know. It would be in the manual though.
Again referring to the manual find out how to switch from reed to hall sensor. And if there is any info on if the pulse input is looking for a +5V pulse. I think so. If so then you wouldn't need the additional PC3 line driver. But surely you should get the S-1 cable.
Install would be easy. Verify the gear or pot shaft diameter. Put the encoder on. Press or glue the gear on. Make sure it meshes with the helical gear (No play...play will give iffy counts). Hook the connector up and verify your wiring. +5V, Ground, And output A.
A multimeter would be a good thing. Everytime the encoder is tripped there should be a 0-5V transition on the ground pin and A (or B).
Here's the wheel I fashioned, with a Dremeled down Houston Tracker PC board with hall sensor in my super-crap actuator.
Open for an early spring look-see.
Next is a few things.
You'll have to see my attachments for dimensional drawings to see how the S-1's match up to the room you have inside your case.
Find out how many turns the pot is actually turning from the furthest west sat to the furthest east or limit to limit.
That will help you in determining which S-1 to choose.
If the pot spins 8 turns and you select an S-1 that delivers 32 counts per revolution. 8X32=256. Not very good between-sat resolution. You'd be constantly hitting a sat and tweaking the E-W position to peak signal. If you hit it at all.
If you choose one that delivers 100ppr...no fingers or toes needed there. 800 pulses for 131-47W would be pretty good.
A 200 ppr unit would be even better IF your receiver could count that high. That I don't know. It would be in the manual though.
Again referring to the manual find out how to switch from reed to hall sensor. And if there is any info on if the pulse input is looking for a +5V pulse. I think so. If so then you wouldn't need the additional PC3 line driver. But surely you should get the S-1 cable.
Install would be easy. Verify the gear or pot shaft diameter. Put the encoder on. Press or glue the gear on. Make sure it meshes with the helical gear (No play...play will give iffy counts). Hook the connector up and verify your wiring. +5V, Ground, And output A.
A multimeter would be a good thing. Everytime the encoder is tripped there should be a 0-5V transition on the ground pin and A (or B).
Here's the wheel I fashioned, with a Dremeled down Houston Tracker PC board with hall sensor in my super-crap actuator.
Open for an early spring look-see.
I dont know if this helps last owner has it on count 5027 in reciever menu
also in the back of the receiver if I ground the one labeled sensor it will count when I move actuator by ground I mean tapping it on chassis multiple times as I move actuator in my manual it only shows the wiring diagram for reed which uses sens and ground top right connections in picture but also in my manual it states hall reed and optical capable but I cant find anything on switching it
also in the back of the receiver if I ground the one labeled sensor it will count when I move actuator by ground I mean tapping it on chassis multiple times as I move actuator in my manual it only shows the wiring diagram for reed which uses sens and ground top right connections in picture but also in my manual it states hall reed and optical capable but I cant find anything on switching it
