Bug Zapper Quit Zapping - Off Topic

[linuxman]

This is totally unrelated to satellite, but is related to electronics and learning how to fix things.

If you remember the mosquito thread I started around the 4th of July, you will remember the Bug Zapper I bought to help eliminate them.

Well it quit zapping. The light still comes on, and I see nothing fried on the little switch board, and the transformer puts out enough juice to turn on the light, but nothing on the zapper.

Here are some pics of the switch board, the transformer, and how it hooks into the back of the unit. I am suspecting one side of the transformer quit, but that's why I am asking here. I put electrical tape over the light sensor so the power would stay on for testing.



Any suggestions?

 

[Anole]

dunno

Not knowing exactly how it works, I cannot recommend you stick the probes of your new DVM in and take readings.

I think the most likely failure would be a broken wire from the transformer to the zap-wires, ...OR
. . . a dead bug shorting out the wires.
Give the outside a good cleaning with ... maybe soap 'n water on a Q-tip, let it dry, and try again...?


Also, I've seen replacement bulbs for some sort of bug attractor at the 99¢ store.
Shoot a picture of the whole unit, one of the bulb, and post any markings on the bulb.
I'll keep an eye out for the fluorescent tubes... if they ever show up again.
And check your own local 99¢ chain for such bulbs.

 

[linuxman]

Not knowing exactly how it works, I cannot recommend you stick the probes of your new DVM in and take readings.

I didn't really want to do that either. :yikes:

I think the most likely failure would be a broken wire from the transformer to the zap-wires, ...OR
. . . a dead bug shorting out the wires.
Give the outside a good cleaning with ... maybe soap 'n water on a Q-tip, let it dry, and try again...?

The wires coming out of the transformer are encased in some kind of gel, silicone, or epoxy. They are not exposed for checking.

Also, I've seen replacement bulbs for some sort of bug attractor at the 99¢ store.
Shoot a picture of the whole unit, one of the bulb, and post any markings on the bulb.
I'll keep an eye out for the fluorescent tubes... if they ever show up again.
And check your own local 99¢ chain for such bulbs.

The bulb works fine and comes on fine. It is on a different side of the transformer.

In thest pics, the current comes in on a black and a white wire. The black wire goes to the switch, and the white wire gets split with white going to switch and black going to transformer. Black out of transformer to light assembly combined with a red from the switch to the light assembly.

No visible wires, but on the other end of the transformer, two red wires come out and go to the connectors on the grid. One for the inside of the grid, and one for the outside.

I have inspected it closely, and there are no shorts. The connectors are tight, so I would have to say that the red side of the transformer has quit.

Here are some more pics:

 

[linuxman]

Just to make sure there were no shorts, I unhooked the two red wires coming from the far side of the transformer and put the meter on them. It shows like .013 V DC. I can put them together and nothing.

Usually that grid has sparks jumping on it all the time.

Maybe I'll take the transformer to Gateway Electronics tomorrow and see if they have one like it. If it isn't to expensive, I'll jut buy another one. The thing only cost $45.00 retail, but it is past the 30 day return policy of Lowes, and to send it in would cost me at least $10.00 in shipping and have to wait 3 weeks before it is back.

Cheap Junk!!!

 

[primestar31]

Just to make sure there were no shorts, I unhooked the two red wires coming from the far side of the transformer and put the meter on them. It shows like .013 V DC. I can put them together and nothing.

Usually that grid has sparks jumping on it all the time.

Maybe I'll take the transformer to Gateway Electronics tomorrow and see if they have one like it. If it isn't to expensive, I'll jut buy another one. The thing only cost $45.00 retail, but it is past the 30 day return policy of Lowes, and to send it in would cost me at least $10.00 in shipping and have to wait 3 weeks before it is back.

Cheap Junk!!!

Hey, try peeling back the paper over the windings on the transformer a bit. Right where the wires go into it. There's probably a wired fuse or self-resetting circuit breaker in there. If so, replace the fuse, or jump the circuit breaker with a fuse! It's possible to zap so many bugs with this, that the "bug juice" shorts out the fuse or snaps the breaker so hard, that it won't reset.

 

[linuxman]

Hey, try peeling back the paper over the windings on the transformer a bit. Right where the wires go into it. There's probably a wired fuse or self-resetting circuit breaker in there. If so, replace the fuse, or jump the circuit breaker with a fuse! It's possible to zap so many bugs with this, that the "bug juice" shorts out the fuse or snaps the breaker so hard, that it won't reset.

Thanks for the tip!

I'll take a look at it in the morning.

 

[linuxman]

I just took a quick look at the transformer.

There are two parts. The only part that has paper over the windings is the part where the power comes in and that also feeds the light. That part is working.

The other half of the transformer is encased in epoxy and also surrounded by plastic. I can see electronics inside the epoxy, but no way to get to them.

If there is a breaker or fuse for that part of the transformer, it is inside the epoxy.

 

[Anole]

Unhook power before proceeding!


Well, I see two lines of attack:

1. double check that there is nothing shorting the innner and outer wire cages together.
Consider unsoldering one and then put your DVM on ohms range and check between the two wire cages
NO POWER, of course.
You should get the same reading as if the probes were connected to nothing.

2. hard to see in the pictures due to the black background
That little glass capsule about 1/4" diameter and 3/4" long looks to be an neon lamp and it's been overworked.
See the black inside? Can you get pictures with a piece of paper under/behind it?
Go to your local store and get an NE2 Neon lamp.
Or, try the 99¢ store and look for a night light with a modest orange glow.
It'll have an NE2 inside.
If it's got an LED, it sure as heck won't be a dim warm orange glow.! -

The neon tube is probably part of the circuit that fires the zap!

 

[linuxman]

Unhook power before proceeding!


Well, I see two lines of attack:

1. double check that there is nothing shorting the innner and outer wire cages together.
Consider unsoldering one and then put your DVM on ohms range and check between the two wire cages
NO POWER, of course.
You should get the same reading as if the probes were connected to nothing.

2. hard to see in the pictures due to the black background
That little glass capsule about 1/4" diameter and 3/4" long looks to be an neon lamp and it's been overworked.
See the black inside? Can you get pictures with a piece of paper under/behind it?
Go to your local store and get an NE2 Neon lamp.
Or, try the 99¢ store and look for a night light with a modest orange glow.
It'll have an NE2 inside.
If it's got an LED, it sure as heck won't be a dim warm orange glow.! -

The neon tube is probably part of the circuit that fires the zap!

That is a distinct possibility!

When you first plug it in, that little lamp lights up, and when the big light under the grid comes on, that little lamp goes out.

Don't know how that figures into the picture, but you may be right, and I wondered about how black it looks.

 

[linuxman]

Well my wife drug out the receipt from Lowe's and asked why I was wasting time trying to fix it.

She says that on the back of the receipt that I have 90 days to return it for cash or exchange, so she has it now and will return it for a new one.

 

[linuxman]

My wife just got back from Lowes where the CSR told her that the "Stinger" bug zapper was a very popular return item this summer. She didn't know whether it was the brand or the model, but that had a lot of them returned defective.

So don't buy the "Stinger" bug zapper from Lowes!

 

[gpat]

Just to make sure there were no shorts, I unhooked the two red wires coming from the far side of the transformer and put the meter on them. It shows like .013 V DC. I can put them together and nothing.

Usually that grid has sparks jumping on it all the time.

Maybe I'll take the transformer to Gateway Electronics tomorrow and see if they have one like it. If it isn't to expensive, I'll jut buy another one. The thing only cost $45.00 retail, but it is past the 30 day return policy of Lowes, and to send it in would cost me at least $10.00 in shipping and have to wait 3 weeks before it is back.

Cheap Junk!!!

this isnt sounding too good
I just bought one a Lowes and they told me it has a 90 day return,because I said if it didnt kill a zillion mosquitos Im bringing it back.
Mine was made in USA or at least it says so on box.

 

[dodge]

Ive fixed a lot of Bug Zappers Stinger Weber, Sears.
Usually when theres no zap the high voltage transformer has bit the dust, on some of the older one there was a round capacitor or starter that failed and you would have no light. I have ordered a few from stinger, the stinger bug zappers are assembled in the us the newer ones have cheap chinese transformers in them, but usually they have been pretty reliable.

Sears units fail alot, made by sunbeam and stinger, have ordered many parts from sears and was able to repair quite a few, parts were easy to get from sears.

Weber globe bug zappers are really good if you can find one, I bought 2 brand new one at a garage sale a few years back and gave them to my dad, his round globe one died called weber and the lady said, wow you still have one, we stopped making those 20 years ago and parts are no longer availible, what a bummer.

 

[ge000]

WEBER BUG ZAPPER

Hi Dodge
wow lucky I found you I hope!!!!
I have had the weber model #23521 for many years,it runs 24 hours a day and would you believe it the bulb just burned out.
I have looked many places,but I cant find a bulb.main reason I do not have the bulb # or what will fit.
if you will please email me the bulb information,and anywhere that I may buy one.
thank you and anyone that can help me.
ge000 TN.

 

[bhelms]

Maybe this replacement for your BF-60 lamp would work ?? Matches-up with your Weber model no. 23521 according to the cross-reference list. A little pricey, but your choice:

http://2getitnow.com/FL-RK-60.html

(I'm big on repairing older equipment that has served me well, even when a new "replacement" might cost less. I might spend that amount myself. "They don't make 'em like they used to!" Sorta like yours truly!)

Welcome, BTW...