MY BIRDVIEW WITH DMX 241 FOR W-5 CONVERSION (DSR-410 OR 922 READY) WORKED!
I'm not sure this info will be of any interest, but I'm excited to have my second Birdview set-up for W-5, giving me options if I want to go to a DSR-410 and keep my original motorized Birdview for FTA!
I'm a fortunate person. Two Birdivews in the yard. First one completely motorized, and already 4DTV friendly. Subs on W-5 and one other bird. It's served me well for 4D and in the clear C-band for quite some time! Keeping this first Birdview ready to go for(motorized) FTA on both C and KU was my goal, switching my 4D subs over to feed off the stationary birdview which has not had the reed-switch conversion for the motor done yet. Along the way, I have learned how to easily set-up the stationary BV for single-satellite use after the 4D shutdown and conversion to DSR-410 readiness, or continued W-5 on 922 receiver! In a nutshell, I lucked out today!
On the second (stationary) dish, the Birdview "high block" dual LNB used for alignment and signal check on 4D was removed. I had extra scalar plates, so had the center of two of them milled out to fit the newer basic C and KU band LNBF's (like the DMX-241 shown.) I was pleasantly surprised when the supplied (new) scalar/mount which came with the 241 bolted right on the orignal Birdivew plate! Who would have thought?
Had already aligned the second non-motorized BV to W-5 and checked signal on 4D unit using original dual C-band Birdview dual LNB, so the only "variable" left was the focal distance and alignment of the new DMX-421 LNBF for best signal on my 4D which is now wired-to and fed-by to this second, stationary dish parked on W-5.
Searched these forums, where someone mentioned the alignment of the "0" marking should be straight down when dish is aimed due south. I randomly placed the new LNB cylinder in-place, protruding about 1/4" beyond the original Scalar's rings, and approximated on the non-moving dish about where the "0" would be when not true south, but when on W-5.
I've never worked with the newer LNBF's and expected much trouble in aligning and finding a signal. The original Birdviews were easy, marked, and foolproof for the most part! To my surprise, with the 4D switched-over for C-band LNBF from its dual LNB setting, and no other changes, I'm getting signal-quality readings in the upper 90's on all my W-5 subs, horizontal and vertical!
I've read in this forum that KU may be much more difficult than C-band for Birdview conversions, but...I have high hopes that this model can be followed when using a BSC-621 combination on the motorized dish, and that I can use the same mounting technique...then do the "fine tuning."
I have a G-box positioner ready to put on the movable Birdview when the 4D is taken offline, but am new to the FTA part of the satellite hobby and will need help along the way finding signals. Doesn't it make sense, however to park the movable dish on a bird KNOWN for FTA on C-band (like W-1 or W-5) then proceed finding other satellites with the known good-arc of the movable dish? I have a GBOX positioner ready to put online, and a Pansat 3500 receiver that has been slaved off the Birdview's LNB on horizontal side only, with good C-band results thus far.
Its only the Ku-band alignment and tweaking on the motorized BV and the (re)finding of satellites that scares me about converting the original motorized BV to a (hopefully great) FTA setup!
Attached pics: C-band LNB changeover (before attaching original LNB cover with drilled holes in cover and wire-ties) and...the converted black scalar plate and C/Ku 421 ready to be installed on the motorized BV dish. (still amazed that the new plate bolts on the old Birdview!)
I was very surprised at how smooth the C-band only LNB changeover went today!
BTW...BV fans will notice the struts are not original on the second dish, (surface rust) but they are scheduled for either painting or changing, too!)
Fun to have a place to share stories on this topic...and Birdview is not known for being "standard" for ANYTHING! (let alone converting them for anything but original hardware!!) I'm open to ideas for the FTA conversion! Please chime in!
I'm not sure this info will be of any interest, but I'm excited to have my second Birdview set-up for W-5, giving me options if I want to go to a DSR-410 and keep my original motorized Birdview for FTA!
I'm a fortunate person. Two Birdivews in the yard. First one completely motorized, and already 4DTV friendly. Subs on W-5 and one other bird. It's served me well for 4D and in the clear C-band for quite some time! Keeping this first Birdview ready to go for(motorized) FTA on both C and KU was my goal, switching my 4D subs over to feed off the stationary birdview which has not had the reed-switch conversion for the motor done yet. Along the way, I have learned how to easily set-up the stationary BV for single-satellite use after the 4D shutdown and conversion to DSR-410 readiness, or continued W-5 on 922 receiver! In a nutshell, I lucked out today!
On the second (stationary) dish, the Birdview "high block" dual LNB used for alignment and signal check on 4D was removed. I had extra scalar plates, so had the center of two of them milled out to fit the newer basic C and KU band LNBF's (like the DMX-241 shown.) I was pleasantly surprised when the supplied (new) scalar/mount which came with the 241 bolted right on the orignal Birdivew plate! Who would have thought?
Had already aligned the second non-motorized BV to W-5 and checked signal on 4D unit using original dual C-band Birdview dual LNB, so the only "variable" left was the focal distance and alignment of the new DMX-421 LNBF for best signal on my 4D which is now wired-to and fed-by to this second, stationary dish parked on W-5.
Searched these forums, where someone mentioned the alignment of the "0" marking should be straight down when dish is aimed due south. I randomly placed the new LNB cylinder in-place, protruding about 1/4" beyond the original Scalar's rings, and approximated on the non-moving dish about where the "0" would be when not true south, but when on W-5.
I've never worked with the newer LNBF's and expected much trouble in aligning and finding a signal. The original Birdviews were easy, marked, and foolproof for the most part! To my surprise, with the 4D switched-over for C-band LNBF from its dual LNB setting, and no other changes, I'm getting signal-quality readings in the upper 90's on all my W-5 subs, horizontal and vertical!
I've read in this forum that KU may be much more difficult than C-band for Birdview conversions, but...I have high hopes that this model can be followed when using a BSC-621 combination on the motorized dish, and that I can use the same mounting technique...then do the "fine tuning."
I have a G-box positioner ready to put on the movable Birdview when the 4D is taken offline, but am new to the FTA part of the satellite hobby and will need help along the way finding signals. Doesn't it make sense, however to park the movable dish on a bird KNOWN for FTA on C-band (like W-1 or W-5) then proceed finding other satellites with the known good-arc of the movable dish? I have a GBOX positioner ready to put online, and a Pansat 3500 receiver that has been slaved off the Birdview's LNB on horizontal side only, with good C-band results thus far.
Its only the Ku-band alignment and tweaking on the motorized BV and the (re)finding of satellites that scares me about converting the original motorized BV to a (hopefully great) FTA setup!
Attached pics: C-band LNB changeover (before attaching original LNB cover with drilled holes in cover and wire-ties) and...the converted black scalar plate and C/Ku 421 ready to be installed on the motorized BV dish. (still amazed that the new plate bolts on the old Birdview!)
I was very surprised at how smooth the C-band only LNB changeover went today!
BTW...BV fans will notice the struts are not original on the second dish, (surface rust) but they are scheduled for either painting or changing, too!)
Fun to have a place to share stories on this topic...and Birdview is not known for being "standard" for ANYTHING! (let alone converting them for anything but original hardware!!) I'm open to ideas for the FTA conversion! Please chime in!
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