Birdview project w photos
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No paint yet
I actually didn't paint the dish. I used one of those stainless steel chain-link brillo pads to get the dirt off. It still needs painting. It has that sort of sandy paint job on it that looks to be original. The logo on the dish itself came off pretty easy, except for the smudge of paper you can see in the photo.
In one picture I am holding the removed pentiometer essentially where I took if off of. It's a shame that I can't use it. If only the guy would look for his Birdview receiver. It's in his house somewhere. Then I wouldn't have to modify this thing.
Anyway, the second picture represents me cutting the sanding wheel down to start making the magnet wheel. I figured I would just put it on and start the machine up, then I'd cut it with diamond bit on a moto tool. this way it would be round for sure. I had measured the clearance I'd have on the hh motor and cut it for that clearance.
I actually didn't paint the dish. I used one of those stainless steel chain-link brillo pads to get the dirt off. It still needs painting. It has that sort of sandy paint job on it that looks to be original. The logo on the dish itself came off pretty easy, except for the smudge of paper you can see in the photo.
In one picture I am holding the removed pentiometer essentially where I took if off of. It's a shame that I can't use it. If only the guy would look for his Birdview receiver. It's in his house somewhere. Then I wouldn't have to modify this thing.
Anyway, the second picture represents me cutting the sanding wheel down to start making the magnet wheel. I figured I would just put it on and start the machine up, then I'd cut it with diamond bit on a moto tool. this way it would be round for sure. I had measured the clearance I'd have on the hh motor and cut it for that clearance.
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More progress
Here are a few more photos of the magnet wheel, reed sensor mod for my Birdview project.
The first is the cut going through and the sanding wheel is cut down to size. The second is a back view of the wheel with an allen wrench sticking in it. You'll note that the wheel was cast with ridges that divide the wheel into thirds. This, I believe will help to get the magnets spaced evenly.
The third is a picture of the wheel with some of the tools I'll be using to space the magnets exactly
Speaking of the reed switch again, I'm finding those sealed glass units and I'm finding some used on a Von Weise actuator. Who can I talk to for tech help?
Here are a few more photos of the magnet wheel, reed sensor mod for my Birdview project.
The first is the cut going through and the sanding wheel is cut down to size. The second is a back view of the wheel with an allen wrench sticking in it. You'll note that the wheel was cast with ridges that divide the wheel into thirds. This, I believe will help to get the magnets spaced evenly.
The third is a picture of the wheel with some of the tools I'll be using to space the magnets exactly
Speaking of the reed switch again, I'm finding those sealed glass units and I'm finding some used on a Von Weise actuator. Who can I talk to for tech help?
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The thread where Linuxman invented his own wheel would have the most info on the subject.
He and I did some additional brainstorming on the phone, but I think it's all reflected in his posts.
You might read through that thread two or three times, filter out what didn't work well for him, and give your own ideas a try.
The wheel doesn't turn fast, so this isn't rocket science.
The little glass reed-switch capsules may be available at Radio Shack.
Though, over the years, they've cut back a lot on parts.
Look for a store with FOUR of the sets of the grey pull-out drawers.
If you find a store with only two, keep looking
I'll go double check those numbers at my buddy's store - he has the maximum.
Actually I've read the threads and asked linuxman directly about his reed switch. So far, he's the only one who has successfully completed a modification and for that he used a spare Birdview reed switch he got off another unit.
In my research, the purpose of the switch is for pulse counting. The Von Wiese unit is more expensive and looks different from the glass encapsulated units. There is a discussion on one of the sites I looked at how important it is to match the switch to the specific electrical limitations of the project.
Obviously, I'm making this modification to last. I want to set it and forget it.
Here is a picture of the wheel and the magnets I will implant in it. If there is a Radio Shack that has a usable item, I'd appreciate the info.
In my research, the purpose of the switch is for pulse counting. The Von Wiese unit is more expensive and looks different from the glass encapsulated units. There is a discussion on one of the sites I looked at how important it is to match the switch to the specific electrical limitations of the project.
Obviously, I'm making this modification to last. I want to set it and forget it.
Here is a picture of the wheel and the magnets I will implant in it. If there is a Radio Shack that has a usable item, I'd appreciate the info.
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I actually ended up with a triangle shaped reed switch that I borrowed off of an HTS linear actuator that I had laying around here spare.
The cylindrical shaped switches might be the easiest to attach to the bracket, but any switch that is designed to pick up the magnetic pulses will work as long as they are secure and within grabbing distance of the wheel.
Too bad. When I got my current dish, it had a broken actuator on it. I went to the dump one day and got rid of it. Maybe I could've gotten the switch out of it.
Anyway, I'm posting the dish I'll be replacing. Can anyone tell me what kind it is?
Like I said once, the guy I got it from dropped it off his roof trying to take it down alone. It was way out of round and bent up. It took a lot of hitting wih a rubber mallet, peening, cranking on a come along and then finally stringing a thin guy wire across it to make it round. I get a bunch of stations with it now.
Anyway, I'm posting the dish I'll be replacing. Can anyone tell me what kind it is?
Like I said once, the guy I got it from dropped it off his roof trying to take it down alone. It was way out of round and bent up. It took a lot of hitting wih a rubber mallet, peening, cranking on a come along and then finally stringing a thin guy wire across it to make it round. I get a bunch of stations with it now.
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I rarely ever throw anything away if it has to do with satellite equipment.
When we moved all our stuff out in preparation for a possible flood, my wife asked me what we were moving all the junk for? I told her it was not junk!!! It was some of my most valuable possessions, and we are moving it so it won't get wet and ruined.
i bought some of the sensors ( glass reed-switch capsules ) off ebay 10 for $6.50 shipped
i've yet to get to the testing stage. but if you need a few for a project , i can send them .... was hoping to double up my count and then maybe start repairing a couple of dead reed sensors i have. this would be a good cost effective method as the sensors for my superjack new is $14.50 shipped .....
main thing about this site i love is we are in to finding methods ( and sharing them) that will work to repair and prolong the life of our BUD's
i've yet to get to the testing stage. but if you need a few for a project , i can send them .... was hoping to double up my count and then maybe start repairing a couple of dead reed sensors i have. this would be a good cost effective method as the sensors for my superjack new is $14.50 shipped .....
main thing about this site i love is we are in to finding methods ( and sharing them) that will work to repair and prolong the life of our BUD's
Thanks much for the offer. Actually I'm trying somethinga little bit out there. I'm making a reed switch.
I started out with an old 6 volt battery with those springy wire contacts on them. First thing I did was cut the contact off the battery and verified it was magnetic. Then I straightened the wire out (not so easy) and then I started flattening out a 2 inch section of it with a ball peen hammer. Pretty soon I had a 2 inch by 1/8 inch wide piece of electrical contact material. Then the critical part - to determine if the peening destroyed the springy characteristic. It didn''t.
I mounted the thing in a white nylon spacer I made the contact adjustable and have it at about 1/32nd of an inch apart. My next step is to figure out the best material to cover the end with. It has to do two things- transmit magnetism through it and contain some inert gas ( I have some Argon for a hobby heliarc welder I have).
I'll post progress pictures in a day or so.
I started out with an old 6 volt battery with those springy wire contacts on them. First thing I did was cut the contact off the battery and verified it was magnetic. Then I straightened the wire out (not so easy) and then I started flattening out a 2 inch section of it with a ball peen hammer. Pretty soon I had a 2 inch by 1/8 inch wide piece of electrical contact material. Then the critical part - to determine if the peening destroyed the springy characteristic. It didn''t.
I mounted the thing in a white nylon spacer I made the contact adjustable and have it at about 1/32nd of an inch apart. My next step is to figure out the best material to cover the end with. It has to do two things- transmit magnetism through it and contain some inert gas ( I have some Argon for a hobby heliarc welder I have).
I'll post progress pictures in a day or so.
I am not making a lot of progress at all.
If I can't make this motor work on the ground, I sure ain't gonna install it.
No matter what I do, the motor move less than a click every time I hit the G-Box button.
I'll try a few more things, but the option of mounting the Birdview on my current rig looks more and more attractive.
If I can't make this motor work on the ground, I sure ain't gonna install it.
No matter what I do, the motor move less than a click every time I hit the G-Box button.
I'll try a few more things, but the option of mounting the Birdview on my current rig looks more and more attractive.
In the absence of feedback pulses, any good Vbox or Gbox will stop moving your dish after just a blip.
It assumes you have run up against your house or tree...
Or that your wires are broken.
It's just a safety feature.
It assumes you have run up against your house or tree...
Or that your wires are broken.
It's just a safety feature.
Try just waving your sensor across a magnet back and forth while you have the GBox button pushed. If the sensor is working with the magnet, the motor will continue to move.
If the sensor isn't making contact and sending the pulse back to the GBox, the motor won't move any further.
If the sensor isn't making contact and sending the pulse back to the GBox, the motor won't move any further.
Well, I finally had success! I got a reed sensor from Radio Shack. I mounted it close to my 24 magnet wheel. It turns!
There is a bit of a wobble in the magnet wheel, since I ended up using two 1/2 inch collars and a piece of black plastic (part of an end cap for a 4 inch plastic pipe), but it turns.
I really don't know how the pulses are being counted, though. Also, even without the load of the dish, the motor seems to move then strain.
Sort of EEEErrrrrEEEEErrrrrrrEEEErrrrr. I don't know if this is ok or not.
Well, it looks like the installation continues. The next step is the mounting of the 6 inch Birdview mast over my 3 1/2 inch current mast. I'm deciding right now if I have to fill it with concrete. If I do, that will require me to cut about a foot of the top off, then reconnect it with bolts and welding. If I don't fill it, I'll need to precisely get holes lined up.
I'll post some more photos soon.
Does anyone know what my current big dish is posted above in #8?
There is a bit of a wobble in the magnet wheel, since I ended up using two 1/2 inch collars and a piece of black plastic (part of an end cap for a 4 inch plastic pipe), but it turns.
I really don't know how the pulses are being counted, though. Also, even without the load of the dish, the motor seems to move then strain.
Sort of EEEErrrrrEEEEErrrrrrrEEEErrrrr. I don't know if this is ok or not.
Well, it looks like the installation continues. The next step is the mounting of the 6 inch Birdview mast over my 3 1/2 inch current mast. I'm deciding right now if I have to fill it with concrete. If I do, that will require me to cut about a foot of the top off, then reconnect it with bolts and welding. If I don't fill it, I'll need to precisely get holes lined up.
I'll post some more photos soon.
Does anyone know what my current big dish is posted above in #8?
Just a kind of final word on my Birdview project.
The magnet/pulse modification works like a charm - thanks again linuxman!
I have removed the Birdview DLNA in favor of my old BSC 621-2 universal lnb.
Last night I got to scanning.
I'm in the far west US and have been able to bring in the C-band satellites at 131w 133, 135 and 137. Not a lot free there, but some!
On the east side I've gotten 55.5 and 58 west too. I might be able to get into the 40's, but I think I'll have to shim the dish for declination first.
I've stored all of the positions in my G-box as I am not impressed with its ability to go to the satellite chosen by the receiver. I have better luck using the G-Box remote.
All I can say is WOW! I am getting a lot more rogramming! I'm sure when I tune this dish in perfectly and get the right electronics attached, I'll be REAALLY happy.
The magnet/pulse modification works like a charm - thanks again linuxman!
I have removed the Birdview DLNA in favor of my old BSC 621-2 universal lnb.
Last night I got to scanning.
I'm in the far west US and have been able to bring in the C-band satellites at 131w 133, 135 and 137. Not a lot free there, but some!
On the east side I've gotten 55.5 and 58 west too. I might be able to get into the 40's, but I think I'll have to shim the dish for declination first.
I've stored all of the positions in my G-box as I am not impressed with its ability to go to the satellite chosen by the receiver. I have better luck using the G-Box remote.
All I can say is WOW! I am getting a lot more rogramming! I'm sure when I tune this dish in perfectly and get the right electronics attached, I'll be REAALLY happy.
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