Antenna Suggestions
- Thread starter Robertoo
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That would be correct.
Agree with the above - best to split the signal from one location to many. Not split off to one and then later a bunch more.
Just follow that wire to the splitter that's already there, (cable co installed??) Remove their 'input' lead and replace with the coax coming from the antenna.
Basically, a 2-way splitter. I didn't think it mattered where the antenna was plugged in. The thing is, my cable box is on the other side of the house, so it would be a long run to the main/first split. I guess a much longer coax cable will be necessary.
Yeah, Time Warner Cable. I just have them for Internet now. It goes:
Drop>2-Way Directional Coupler
------------------->Modem (No dB loss)
------------------->4-Way Splitter (14 dB loss)>Multiple TVs
The directional coupler causes no loss on one end, but 6 dB loss on the other, so that's why the 4-Way Splitter has such a high dB loss. Time Warner Cable set it up this way for the benefit of the modem. I'm not sure how I would rearrange it. I still need their line-in for Internet, but I also need a line-in for the antenna. Is there a way to do dual lines-in?
Best to run antenna coax all the way to the 'split'. Could try 'injecting'into the 'cable' but think they'd complain. It likely will cause interference. A diplexer MAY also work, BUT without knowing exactly what frequencies are occupied in the cable, interference is a concern.
So now it's: cable>>>modem>>>splitter>>tv's
Make it: cable >>> modem--INet comps
and separately:
antenna>>>splitter>>>tv's
(maybe an A-B switch?? Antenna/Cable)
If running more than 2 TV's I'd be looking at distribution amp to replace the splitter. Hooking it up with a splitter first and determine if an amp is called for. I've had good results with the CM-3414 and CM-3418.
So now it's: cable>>>modem>>>splitter>>tv's
Make it: cable >>> modem--INet comps
and separately:
antenna>>>splitter>>>tv's
(maybe an A-B switch?? Antenna/Cable)
If running more than 2 TV's I'd be looking at distribution amp to replace the splitter. Hooking it up with a splitter first and determine if an amp is called for. I've had good results with the CM-3414 and CM-3418.
Thanks for the tip. I could probably separate the line going to my modem from all the rest, kind of isolating the cable modem in a room that doesn't need a TV. The only problem with that is that I also use Moca adapters that shoot ethernet over coax on all my TVs, for Roku streaming. That would mean my modem would have to stay on the same line as all my TVs.
Okay, this all seems a bit complicated. I'm thinking about switching to Verizon FiOS Internet anyway and from what I've read they use much higher frequencies. It would also work well with Moca adapters. Would that solve my problems?
Oh yeah, on the Channel Master site it says "Offers return path for cable modem applications". I wonder if that means it would work for my situation. Anyway, I'm pretty sure Verizon FiOS Internet signal wouldn't interfere with the antenna signal, so I may just go that way.
EDIT: If I got Time Warner to put a filter on the line that would just pass through the Internet signal and block the cable TV signal I'm not using, would that make any difference? That sounds like it would prevent interference with the antenna, since I imagine that the Internet signal operates on a different frequency.
EDIT: If I got Time Warner to put a filter on the line that would just pass through the Internet signal and block the cable TV signal I'm not using, would that make any difference? That sounds like it would prevent interference with the antenna, since I imagine that the Internet signal operates on a different frequency.
Not true with DOCSIS 3.0. It can go as high as 42MHz on the upstream and to just above 1GHz for the downstream
It is best to physically separate the modem connection from the distribution system.
I can't physically separate them because I use MoCA adapters to run ethernet over coax to all my Rokus, so I need the modem on the same line. And I can't install all new wiring throughout the house, either another coax or an ethernet, because I'm renting. I only really have permission right now to install Verizon FiOS, and I don't think Verizon will run an entirely new coax line setup just because I have an antenna.
Anyway, from everything I've read online, people seem to be using antennas with Verizon FiOS on the same line without issues: http://forums.verizon.com/t5/FiOS-Internet/internet-and-OTA-antenna-on-the-same-line/td-p/485041
I think Verizon FiOs Internet uses the MoCA frequencies (?), which are comparable to satellite frequencies, from what I've read. I know they're higher than cable frequencies, so maybe they won't interfere with the antenna.
If you've already got a bunch of MoCA adapters, what's one more to bridge the router with the distribution network? The MoCA network isn't the issue. The issue is any other Verizon baggage that might come with it.
It would be worth considering to make sure that you've got BSFs on every outlet that doesn't have a MoCA adapter first in line.
Oh, so instead of combining the antenna and the Internet signals, I can just separate out the Internet and then bridge it into the antenna coax network with one of my MoCA adapters? If so, I wouldn't even need a diplexer, but how would it look?
Antenna Drop>>Main 4-Way Splitter>>Out to TV 1
>>Out to TV 2
>>Out to TV 3
>>Out to TV 3
This sounds great, and it looks like it will work without interference at all. Is that what you meant, harshness? I even have an extra adapter just lying around right now. I know MoCA frequencies are higher than antenna frequencies, but I was worried that the regular Time Warner Cable signal, which would definitely cause problems, would get mixed in if I put it all on the same network. That's why I've been looking at FiOS, because it runs at those same higher frequencies. Now that you mention it though, as long as I filter out the modem, I guess there shouldn't be a problem. That sounds about right.
Yep. Physically remove all FIOS RF from the distribution network with a CAT5 link.
Awesome. And do you think it will work fine the way my diagram shows? Without a diplexer/combiner, just putting it on the fourth leg of my antenna splitter? I'm having my antenna installed in a week, so I'll guess I'll find out.
EDIT: Here's a better diagram of what I'm thinking.
Last edited:
OK, cool. To get back to the antenna installation, I'm all of a sudden having doubts about the mast I chose. I went with a 1.25 inch diameter, 5 foot swedged mast, also by Winegard, mostly because I knew it would be compatible with my Winegard mount. I wanted to get a 2 inch mast for strength because my antenna is so large (14 foot boom; 15 pounds) and I know it can use up to a 2 inch mast, but the thing is, nowhere on the Internet, Winegard's own website/customer support Chat, or even in the included instructions does it say what mast diameter the SW-0012 mount will support.
Anyway, I got the mount today and there is exactly 2.125 inches between the holes where the bolts holding the mast in place would go. Here's a picture of it just on the ground, with a penny by it for scale: http://imageshack.com/a/img537/3097/KvPX3h.jpg
Now I know I probably couldn't fit a 2 inch mast in this, but maybe a 1.50 inch one? The curve on those pieces is pretty small, so I don't even know if a 1.50 inch mast would fit safely. I emailed Winegard about this, but haven't gotten a response yet. Will probably call them tomorrow. Do you guys think it will make a difference, 1.25 inches vs 1.50?
Anyway, I got the mount today and there is exactly 2.125 inches between the holes where the bolts holding the mast in place would go. Here's a picture of it just on the ground, with a penny by it for scale: http://imageshack.com/a/img537/3097/KvPX3h.jpg
Now I know I probably couldn't fit a 2 inch mast in this, but maybe a 1.50 inch one? The curve on those pieces is pretty small, so I don't even know if a 1.50 inch mast would fit safely. I emailed Winegard about this, but haven't gotten a response yet. Will probably call them tomorrow. Do you guys think it will make a difference, 1.25 inches vs 1.50?
Try bending that pipe if you think it is weak, without mechanical assistance I doubt you can bend it.
If you would like something with a slightly bigger diameter (and also a gauge thicker), some people are using this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_103268-215-58910235_0__?productId=50324107
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