Ajak H-H Mount Rescue

[takoulis]

I was able to locate this motor it was laying outside in someones back yard who knows how many years, i am currently in the process of rebuilding it as you can see all the rust has been removed through sandblasting it has been primed, i will be removing the main shaft to replace the Teflon sleeve with a Bronze sleeve ordered new limit switches the motor i have a brand new one. I will post more pictures when the work is done and it is painted.

 

[DK_Sat]

Wow from rust to silver, looking good post some more photos when you have the H-H done.

 

[Anole]

Yea, a little TLC goes a long ways! Good work. - :up

edit:
And just a parting thought...
If you see one out in the field, try to rescue it, no matter the condition.
Even if you don't want to refurb it, some fool will, and thank you for the privilege !
There are only a finite number of 'em left - let those all go to good homes.

 

[Anole]

reed switch

On a more serious note . . .
I see your reed switch is missing.
Do you have it? Do you know where it goes? Do you know how clever it is?

There is a 5-magnet wheel under that plastic/bakelite disc.
The reed closes 10 times for one revolution of the wheel.
I'll discuss it if there are any questions.

 

[takoulis]

I have the reed switch but i am not planning on using the same motor, i have another one sitting on the top of the bench right next to the old motor.

 

[alemmoe]

Takoulis:
If you are not able get your rust bucket back into operation,I know where there is a complete new/ Old Stock, H to H ,complete Dish,Motor,cables assembly that has been in storage since 1983, that is for sale.
No rust remover needed.

 

[takoulis]

Takoulis:
If you are not able get your rust bucket back into operation,I know where there is a complete new/ Old Stock, H to H ,complete Dish,Motor,cables assembly that has been in storage since 1983, that is for sale.
No rust remover needed.

Its not a rust bucket anymore if you bother to look at the pictures in fact it will be better than new when i get done with it,i am not new at this game i have rebuilt several over these years i know what i am doing. As for the other one no thanks.

 

[alemmoe]

Takoulis,
Sorry,But I only looked at the rusty metal. That really got my attention because I use electrolysis [water and a battery charger] and have dipped the Dish parts into a 2' x 2' x 4' deep square [ plastic only ] tank,for a day or two, with a commercial battery charger with 65 amps setting and the rust jumps off and the patina is still on the metal.
I started out with a 5 gallon bucket.

I did a Big Dish rust removal by making a box using 2' x 12' wood joist and adding a plastic liner to hold water and some Arm & hammer washing soda to cut the oil ,then put pieces of 12" rebar about 12" apart,in the water and around the box and and attached copper wire to all rebars to make a loop,which I apply the postive lead to the rebar and put the negitive lead on the rusty Dish for a day.
As soon as current is applied,look for the water to start moving around as a sign of a good connection.
The rust comes to the surface and attracts to the nearest rebar.
The metal being cleaned can not touch the rebar ,or it will weld together,but it needs to be as close as possible.

If the polarity is wrong the rust will go back onto the dish from the rebar.

Yes,I have a lid on the tank,otherwise if anyone [ grandchildren] stuck their hand in it ,they would be fried.
When the rust is gone ,the metal will be black from oxidation.
I wetted it wth water and sprayed Purple KABOOM on and brushed and rinsed.
I wipe dry/air hose it and a spray clear acrylic or a paint primer & color spray to seal the metal,otherwise it will start rusting as soon as the air hits it.
If the metal is fused / rusted together ,I apply T.P.Blaster for three days and tap with a rubber mallet,each day.
It will release the fusing if you are patient.
I love Rust.
Al
alemmoe1@msn.com

 

[takoulis]

Takoulis,
Sorry,But I only looked at the rusty metal. That really got my attention because I use electrolysis [water and a battery charger] and have dipped the Dish parts into a 2' x 2' x 4' deep square [ plastic only ] tank,for a day or two, with a commercial battery charger with 65 amps setting and the rust jumps off and the patina is still on the metal.
I started out with a 5 gallon bucket.

I did a Big Dish rust removal by making a box using 2' x 12' wood joist and adding a plastic liner to hold water and some Arm & hammer washing soda to cut the oil ,then put pieces of 12" rebar about 12" apart,in the water and around the box and and attached copper wire to all rebars to make a loop,which I apply the postive lead to the rebar and put the negitive lead on the rusty Dish for a day.
As soon as current is applied,look for the water to start moving around as a sign of a good connection.
The rust comes to the surface and attracts to the nearest rebar.
The metal being cleaned can not touch the rebar ,or it will weld together,but it needs to be as close as possible.

If the polarity is wrong the rust will go back onto the dish from the rebar.

Yes,I have a lid on the tank,otherwise if anyone [ grandchildren] stuck their hand in it ,they would be fried.
When the rust is gone ,the metal will be black from oxidation.
I wetted it wth water and sprayed Purple KABOOM on and brushed and rinsed.
I wipe dry/air hose it and a spray clear acrylic or a paint primer & color spray to seal the metal,otherwise it will start rusting as soon as the air hits it.
If the metal is fused / rusted together ,I apply T.P.Blaster for three days and tap with a rubber mallet,each day.
It will release the fusing if you are patient.
I love Rust.
Al
alemmoe1@msn.com

It sounds like a very intersting process a little bit dangerous. I used a parts sandblasting machine but i was able to get all the rust out and immediately sprayed it with primer. Now for the fun part i pressed out the main shaft i have to replace the Teflon sleeve with a bronze sleeve machine it to the correct size of the old teflon one. Will have some pictures when its finished. I will not be installing it till spring, its getting a little cold up here.

 

[alemmoe]

Takoulis:
I ran a automatic copy wood lathe for twenty years and I also needed a bronze bushing reduced for a project.
I turned a wood blank into a dowel that I fitted tight into the bushing ,found the centers on each end and used a fine large file to reduce it to the correct diameter with two outside calipers,comparing where it was and how much more needed to come off.
alemmoe1@msn.com

 

[RT-Cat]

Nice Santa Lizzie, Anole.