Actuator Install is this right

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Save your energy. 6 more inches and 100lbs additional weight is not adequate for a c-band dish. Maybe get away with this in clay or compacted, rocky soil, but not in loose soil.

Buy a longer pole and install it right. Otherwise, this is a battle that you are not likely to win.
 
My soil is sandy loam, and I use a minimum of 4 feet deep bell shaped hole, and 800 lbs of cement. Anything much less is foolish, and will most likely be a problem next time you have a big wind.

That might be more than you need in Texas, but cement is cheap, and I wouldn't want to have to do it over.
 
Here is some clarification where I planted the pole is in an old rock garden that is 1' to 2'+ higher than the actually yard so the topsoil of the rock garden is what I am through underneath that is good rocky soil as the lot is mostly bedrock, that is why I think if I dig deeper I can make the install work with some modifications to the pole to stop it from leaning

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Step away for a few days and regroup your thoughts.... All you need is an angle finder (one on your smartphone?) and a TV connected to your STB/controller sitting next to the dish. You don't need meters or anything else. Get one sat coming in and the feeling of accomplishment will take you to the next step.

Sometime too many suggestions from us well meaning members tend to overwhelm! :(
ok i am giving it one more dug a deeper hole in rocky dirt and just waiting to get the pipe flush

That wall/fence looks really tall and close...

i found out that because the pole was not cut flush that it was plumbed at the slant angle looking for ways to get the pole bottom flush
 
...i found out that because the pole was not cut flush that it was plumbed at the slant angle looking for ways to get the pole bottom flush

Maybe I misunderstand what you mean but there is no need to have the bottom of the pole cut flush (square...straight?). Just get the bottom deep enough, plumb it up and use sufficient concrete.

It is a good idea to have the top of the pole cut square so that the mount tends to sit on it properly.
 
ImageUploadedBySatelliteGuys1411082496.720559.jpg


Like this. I used duct tape at the top. Note the two yellow magnetic levels near the top.
 
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limit switches are under the cover on the rear of the actuator.
Also on a west side mount the furthest western satellite is just short of fully retracted

The limit switches are hooked up with internal wires in the motor case. The parts that are inside pushing those switches are cams; just like a camshaft bumps the valves on a motor. At the lowest in the movement; or retracted arm; this cam is already set. The little holder screw allows the outer cam to be adjusted for "mechanical extended arm limit"; which is for safety and mechanically challenging the arm to NOT MOVE PAST A CERTAIN LENGTH; or extension. This should be set at the farthest point where the arm if extended any farther; will cause the dish to fall too far over in that direction; making the motor stop before it falls. This will be a far eastern satellite like W3 or W2 if you live on the east coast; and AMC 7/8 if you live on the West coast (and the arm is on the correct side of the dish for moving to the ""farthest eastern" or "farthest western" satellite you want the dish to move to. The CAM is set to stop; or engage; BEFORE THIS POINT! Otherwise, the arm will drive too far in this direction; and can break the dish or arm or both!

And the pole must withstand a 10,000 lb. force; the pole you are talking about is leaning already; and a wind will make a dish and pole like this fall over!
 
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Is this damage fixable if so how

Difference with new lnbf and old lnbf

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