8ft BUD from neighbor for free

[Titanium]

If the old post was plumb/level and the new post is also, should be able to drop it on the mount, rotate the mount to face true south and be reasonably close to the arc.

Use the old IRD to control the actuator and rotate the polarity servo. Make sure that when the dish is at the apex of the arc and the IRD is on a vertical polarity channel (odd channel 1 or even channel 2), the servo probe is pointed straight up/down (12/6 o'clock). Select the opposite polarity channel ( even 2 or odd 1) and verify the probe rotates 90 degrees and is horizontal (9/3 o'clock).

BTW... There isn't such a thing as an analog or digital LNB. Just possibly older model with noisier amplification.

 

[Pepper]

Nice find. If you ever decide to get rid of it, I'm just north of Mobile.

 

[olliec420]

Nice find. If you ever decide to get rid of it, I'm just north of Mobile.

Oh hey, yeah you are close. If you wanna go for a ride, there's one in Panama city for free. I'm thinking about getting it but I don't really have any where for it right now. I could store it though. But if you're looking for one, i'd say go for it man.

 

[olliec420]

If the old post was plumb/level and the new post is also, should be able to drop it on the mount, rotate the mount to face true south and be reasonably close to the arc.

Use the old IRD to control the actuator and rotate the polarity servo. Make sure that when the dish is at the apex of the arc and the IRD is on a vertical polarity channel (odd channel 1 or even channel 2), the servo probe is pointed straight up/down (12/6 o'clock). Select the opposite polarity channel ( even 2 or odd 1) and verify the probe rotates 90 degrees and is horizontal (9/3 o'clock).

BTW... There isn't such a thing as an analog or digital LNB. Just possibly older model with noisier amplification.

Thanks, I needed that for this as it's my first go at c-band. As far as anyone's experience goes, is it often you find something like this and the actuator still work normally? Is there anything that should done to the actuator like grease or what not?

 

[FTA4PA]

Thanks, I needed that for this as it's my first go at c-band. As far as anyone's experience goes, is it often you find something like this and the actuator still work normally? Is there anything that should done to the actuator like grease or what not?

Hopefully you will get lucky and find that it works well. If not, many times they can be cleaned up and brought back into service. Check out this thread I started regarding a 10' SAMI dish and Von Weise actuator I got from a neighbor. In post #15 you can see how bad the actuator looked when I opened it up but with a little tlc it's functional again (just wish I could have got the dish up before winter arrived).
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/posts/3900294/

 

[olliec420]

I haven't got to operate it at all yet but I was about to at least get it mounted today. I did a small write up on my project blog. If your interested check it out. http://www.halfasscraftsman.com/c-band-mounting-a-bud-7-5-satellite-dish/

For those of you who don't want the story and just want the pictures I'll put them here too:

 

[Hockeynut]

Nice find olliec420 and the price was right..Being the dish was originally installed in 96 the actuator may very well work.are all the ball pivot joints free and not rusted up?.If it has grease fittings I would give it a good lubing.Could be worth the time to tinker with that actuator and save some money from buying a new one.Myself whenever I do buy an actuator I always buy Venture!.Still made right here in America ( Ohio )..Can even buy a 36" ballscrew from them and they will build on order but most of the time they have the 24" ballscrew in stock ready to go.

Since the dish is at a disadvantage size wise especially for these higher modulation signals like the mux on 97 Cband I would not skimp at all with a good set of LNB`s ( ortho feed ) or I just bought one of those Titanium C2 PLL LNBF`s dual output and from what little tinkering I have done with it it is a nice performer for the price.Do think I see Michael KEFEST has the single ouput of this LNBF on sale right now.

Positioner an old reliable Vbox will handle the job and shakes hands very well with most receivers to move the dish around.There is the ASC1 also.

Good luck and please keep us posted on this fun project.

 

[olliec420]

Hockeynut, thanks for the suggestions and bringing up LNBs. So now that its up Im spending a lot of time looking at it thinking of what to do, read some more, then go outside and look at it again for a while and think. Back to the computer and then it hits me. Back in the day, I bought a c-band LNB and its been shelved for years. I dug it out as well as the birdog. So look at my photos above to see what came on it. The photos below are what I have bought in the past. If I'm understanding all this correct... I can take that LNBF that came with it off and then I can ditch the stuff for controlling polarity because the GEOSAT pro C2 (I think is not the pll) has voltage controlled polarity is that right?

 

[waylew]

Hockeynut, thanks for the suggestions and bringing up LNBs. So now that its up Im spending a lot of time looking at it thinking of what to do, read some more, then go outside and look at it again for a while and think. Back to the computer and then it hits me. Back in the day, I bought a c-band LNB and its been shelved for years. I dug it out as well as the birdog. So look at my photos above to see what came on it. The photos below are what I have bought in the past. If I'm understanding all this correct... I can take that LNBF that came with it off and then I can ditch the stuff for controlling polarity because the GEOSAT pro C2 (I think is not the pll) has voltage controlled polarity is that right?

What's on the dish is a polarotor with an LNB attached to it.The C2 is an LNBF with voltage controlled polarity.So yes ,install the C2 and you won't need a separate polarity controller.

 

[olliec420]

OK, Im back at it today. This morning I charged up the birdog and went out and tried to see what the hell I might be able to get. Turn on the meter and it was set to 87, I swung the dish around some and nothing but it did start beeping faster at times. Changed it over to 91H and swung it around and got faster tones but nothing, changed ti to 91V and swung and bingo, lock with it at its current position, loosely put together got about 53%. If I push up on it I can get it in the low 70%s. If I'm not mistaken (Zip 32504, 91° is my true south?) so I wonder should I peak it on 91° and hunker everything down then start to find out about the condition of the mover? I only ask because the mover looks old and I have to try to get the old receiver going to use that mover and I was thinking while its my first time with C-band I might just move it manually and scan the skies for a couple months when I have free time. Any advice or input is appreciated!

Update: So I scanned in 91 V and all is well. Signal is really good it seems, S 93 Q 66 on a Basketball feed. So now I realized I'm only getting V cuz polarotor. Im working with a little TV and receiver on a little abel out right next to the pool where the satellite is. I think Im just going to switch out the old LNB for the geosat pro c2 that I have here so I can have voltage controlled polarity and then get a cable run indoors. If anyone thinks thats a mistake please let me know.

 

[olliec420]

Alright, got the LNB swapped. That wasn't too hard. Without what I know from ku experience and what I've read here over the last 10 years, it would not have been I will admit. Had a little trouble with the skew and my geosat pro c2 lnb came with one screw missing. The site where I put it is really perfect, can see most of the arc and so easy to work on. Lucky that came out as good as I hoped. Peaked it with the birdog at 97 Q, that was the best I could get it and I'm happy with that. The actuator is a Super Jack II. I put a lil wd-40 on the joints and am going to run the coax tomorrow to the house.

As far as the motor, I have the old receiver but I have not powered it up yet. Planning on that later tonight but Im not sure how to connect that. Do I connect the coax to the analog receiver and loop out to my box or not? If anyone can help me clarify that I'd appreciate it.

 

[bigg t]

If it was me I would go straight to the 3500. I think that is what you bought. If you go to the other receiver you may lose the voltage control feature since it will probably provide a straight 18 volts since it used a small motor to change skew instead of variable voltage. On the back of the analog you should find two screws for the voltage wires and two screws for the sensor wires. Make sure you don't send voltage to the sensor wires or you will probably fry it. In a pinch you can test the controller with a 12 volt car battery. It will move it slow but should work. Good luck

 

[olliec420]

If it was me I would go straight to the 3500. I think that is what you bought. If you go to the other receiver you may lose the voltage control feature since it will probably provide a straight 18 volts since it used a small motor to change skew instead of variable voltage. On the back of the analog you should find two screws for the voltage wires and two screws for the sensor wires. Make sure you don't send voltage to the sensor wires or you will probably fry it. In a pinch you can test the controller with a 12 volt car battery. It will move it slow but should work. Good luck

Thanks, that helps!

What is this bare wire? And which of brown and blue is pos and neg?

 

[olliec420]

Does this look right, I hit West and East and got notta.

 

[waylew]

Does this look right, I hit West and East and got notta.

Not even close.The 2 heavy gauge wires go to M1 and M2 on the receiver and the motor terminals on the mover.
Use 2 of the lighter wires between SEN and GND red and black terminals,top row, on the receiver to the sensor terminals on the mover,wire color doesn't matter,just use the same on both ends.
If the dish goes in the wrong direction,say west when you push east,just swap the wires on M1 andM2.
The bare wire is the bleeder ground for the wire shield,connect it to the ground terminal on the mover,leave the receiver end unconnected.
Oh and,remove the old VCII module from the receiver,it's of absolutely no use anymore and could cause damage to the receiver if the battery leaks,send it to the recycle.

 

[olliec420]

Not even close.The 2 heavy gauge wires go to M1 and M2 on the receiver and the motor terminals on the mover.
Use 2 of the lighter wires between SEN and GND red and black terminals,top row, on the receiver to the sensor terminals on the mover,wire color doesn't matter,just use the same on both ends.
If the dish goes in the wrong direction,say west when you push east,just swap the wires on M1 andM2.
The bare wire is the bleeder ground for the wire shield,connect it to the ground terminal on the mover,leave the receiver end unconnected.
Oh and,remove the old VCII module from the receiver,it's of absolutely no use anymore and could cause damage to the receiver if the battery leaks,send it to the recycle.

Makes sense! Lets try this agin LOL

 

[olliec420]

Well I'll be damned it worked! Thanks waylew. Starting at 91 I went west connected to the birdog and couldn't find anything. As in no birds came in as found but I had my signal go up some as I went across. I went east and hit back on 91 and then east to 87 no problem and then I scanned some channels and had to go do something else. I left it parked at 87 going to have to revisit it next weekend. In the mean time I want to start looking for the actuator cable so I can run it to the house. For 100-120 ft run, if there a recommend brand/gauge of cable for that application?

 

[waylew]

Amazing what happens when the wires are in the right place.
As far as the cabling goes I'll let others chime in on that.

 

[Titanium]

For motor control use 12 or 14 gauge (min) low voltage landscaping wire. It is good quality copper stranded, designed for outdoor, burial, inexpensive and sold in bulk or by the foot.

Servo and sensor should be bundled separately. I would use 18 or 20 gauge (min) security system wire with shield. Purchase two lengths of 3 conductor with shield and bundle with the motor wire and coax. Attach the bundle shields at one end only and leave the other end open (unconnected). I prefer to attach to the controller ground in the house rather than the dish side.

These are available at Home Depot/Lowes and Ebay.

 

[waylew]

I prefer to attach to the controller ground in the house rather than the dish side.

I couldn't remember which was the preferred end to hook the drain to,or even how I have mine connected,been so long since I did it