The terminals on the Gbox and Actuator are a little small for #14 AWG . Smaller wire is a better fit.
6 foot dish install
- Thread starter dougruss
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thanks Brent and phlatwound. my local stores dont carry anything except 12 or less and no sprinkler wire and closest lowes or depot or specialty shop is 40 min away. my pop who is a retired electrician recomended i take my 100 foot 16 gauge outdoor electrical wire and cut it in half to provide wire for the gbox. i hope the springs dont pop out for 16. Brent you recommended move the actuator to the left side. my location recommends right side. if i am going to try cover 30w to 133w would the push /pull be best on the left if i am going that far down to the lower sats? or does the left side benefit because of so many higher sats above 72w?
If you have a full arc line of sight, I can't see any particular advantage either way. I'm still learning this stuff, too. I , too, am a retired electrician , and I think using the 16 gauge outdoor wire is worth a try. If necessary, I could buy 50 ft of sprinkler wire locally and send it to you parcel post .
I have my 24" actuator set up on the right side and get satellites from 30w to 137w with my south satellite being 72w here in Ct.I needed to have my actuator clamped near the end by the piston to get this range.When the actuator is all the way in im just barely at 137w.The weight of the dish can put a bit of strain on the actuator near 30w! so i do move the dish slow in this area.I use satellite c-band ribbon cable hooked up to my actuator!the cable isnt cheap!it cost just over 1$ a foot and the motor wire leads are pretty thick and just barely fit into my cheap v box connectors.Heres a pic of my actuator set-up.
Attachments
Thanks BrentNice looking dish, Stan, but I think it needs some camo paint !
I placed the dish where it cant be seen by who ever may complain so extra camouflage isn't needed.
success
Its been a fun project and while its not setup in the final position I can consider it a success. Thanks to brentb636 for the HH120 motor which allowed me to use my current bracket as is and of course to Robby for making these dishes available. 9120 motor moved a little faster but the HH120 works thru my full LOS also. Haven't tried Ku yet but Cband signal is way better than my 4ft dish.
Its been a fun project and while its not setup in the final position I can consider it a success.
Thanks to brentb636 for the HH120 motor which allowed me to use my current bracket as is and of course to Robby for making these dishes available. 9120 motor moved a little faster but the HH120 works thru my full LOS also. Haven't tried Ku yet but Cband signal is way better than my 4ft dish.Attachments
I've been pretty open with what's worked and hasn't during setup so ill post pictures again when its repositioned and tweaked. I have a dmx741 which i may try as well or I might try attatching a ku lnb next to the scaler ring
Is your mount a non-penetrating mount? Can you take a picture showing the base of your poll mount? Where did you buy it and how much did it cost?
Is this what your looking for?
P76:* Pole Mast for Polar Mount Style SD180PM Sadoun 180CM Prime focus Satellite Dish This is what i have!bolted on my deck.
This is what I'm using. See rest of pics on page 14 of this thread. Bought it here. It's the "Roof Mount - Non-Penetrating for large offset dishes". Worked very well on my 1.2M offset. I got a custom pipe fabricated by a local shop to give it a bit more height. Used PVC pipe to snug up the mount as described by dougruss on page 1.
i wanted to say thanks to everyone for helping with this. due to being sick and medical issues i havent been able to progress at a steady pace. until now i followed the posts and brents help. i had to put the actuator on top with the spacers on the arm to get the dish to move correct. i set the proper elev and dec angles at what i eyeballed at true south. with the actuator hooked up i am able to get 87w @ 60 % but once at 99- 107 i am hitting 87 %. this was without even messing again with the elev settings cause the rain and snow came. the actuator has to be moved out further cause i can only get close to 113 before the plunger is all the way in. but so far what a difference i hope to get my new lnb arm from robby this week and to mess with this further. thanks guys for the tremendous help. now back to football.
i followed the posts and brents help. i had to put the actuator on top with the spacers on the arm to get the dish to move correct. i set the proper elev and dec angles at what i eyeballed at true south. with the actuator hooked up i am able to get 87w @ 60 % but once at 99- 107 i am hitting 87 %. this was without even messing again with the elev settings cause the rain and snow came. the actuator has to be moved out further cause i can only get close to 113 before the plunger is all the way in. but so far what a difference i hope to get my new lnb arm from robby this week and to mess with this further. thanks guys for the tremendous help. now back to football.HELP
I now have my 13' pole planted dish on what an ordeal that was............ I am having problems attaching my WS-KU2C conversion bracket and conical scalar ring supplied to the 3 feed horn poles. The three mounting holes on the ring are 45 degrees off from the poles. I have observed everyone else has a flat ring to mount their LNB to. I have a DMX741 LNBF and was told when purchasing this was the ring I needed. HELP
Rodm
I now have my 13' pole planted dish on what an ordeal that was............ I am having problems attaching my WS-KU2C conversion bracket and conical scalar ring supplied to the 3 feed horn poles. The three mounting holes on the ring are 45 degrees off from the poles. I have observed everyone else has a flat ring to mount their LNB to. I have a DMX741 LNBF and was told when purchasing this was the ring I needed. HELP
Rodm
That Conical Scalar Ring is only good for a "Mini-Bud" Project. Use the ( FLAT )one that came with your LNB
As Doug said, you definitely need a flat scalar ring. The conical is designed for an offset dish, being used as a mini-BUD and doesn't match the geometry of new dish, even if you got it mounted somehow.
Maybe they've got a lot of them in stock !
I hope not, knowing the WSI folks, it was an honest mistake.- Status
