5LNB Pole Mount

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titicaka21

Well-Known SatelliteGuys Member
Original poster
Jul 30, 2007
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First off I want to say thank you everyone for all the knowledge I have learned from reading this forum. You guys are a great knowledgeable source of information.

Now, let me get down to business. I setup my install with D* for yesterday. When the guy came to the house he said they do not like installing on tin roofs. That was fine with me because our house is getting a new roof in a few months. Along with LOS issues we found a place where we can do a pole mount.

My question is with the pole mount what are the requirements so they can mount the 5LNB dish on it? Here is what he told me.

6 foot beam. 8x8.

Dig a hole 3 feet deep and have the beam 3 feet into the ground. I got 2 8x8x12 pieces of wood, cut them in half, then glued and bolted them together to make a 8x8x6 beam.

Do you think this will be sufficent. I would like to know before I concrete it into the ground.

Reguards,

Chris :up
 
don't use wood posts

for my first dish (1 LNB) I used a 4x4 pressure treated post - eventually it began to warp and twist and I lost signal - don't recommend wood - get a 2" metal pole.
 
problem with wood is it might warp. metal post(2" outside dia.) would be best.
 
First off I want to say thank you everyone for all the knowledge I have learned from reading this forum. You guys are a great knowledgeable source of information.

Now, let me get down to business. I setup my install with D* for yesterday. When the guy came to the house he said they do not like installing on tin roofs. That was fine with me because our house is getting a new roof in a few months. Along with LOS issues we found a place where we can do a pole mount.

My question is with the pole mount what are the requirements so they can mount the 5LNB dish on it? Here is what he told me.

6 foot beam. 8x8.

Dig a hole 3 feet deep and have the beam 3 feet into the ground. I got 2 8x8x12 pieces of wood, cut them in half, then glued and bolted them together to make a 8x8x6 beam.

Do you think this will be sufficent. I would like to know before I concrete it into the ground.

Reguards,

Chris :up
This is definitely overkill. Not to mention a lot of extra work. From searching the forum, it looks like a 2" galvanized fence post will do the trick nicely. Dig a 2 to 3 foot hole (depending on frostline), insert post, add cement and level the post. You can add conduit before cementing for a real professional look.
 
Thank You, so if I install the pole myself should I let them know they need anything else when they arrive? Will they need to bring any other hardware?
 
Thank You, so if I install the pole myself should I let them know they need anything else when they arrive? Will they need to bring any other hardware?
The line(s) will need to be buried between the pole and the house. If you don't dig the trench, then the installer will need some tools.:D
 
The line(s) will need to be buried between the pole and the house. If you don't dig the trench, then the installer will need some tools.:D


This is not an issue because It is right next to a telephone pole in my back yard between the house and garage. The lines are going up on the telephone pole into the house. :up
 
We were renting a house for a year while we were building a new house. The owner of the rental wouldn't allow a dish on the house, so I called DirecTV customer service and had them put "pole mount" in the installation notes. The installer came out with the pole and cemented it in the ground. I didn't have to do anything and there was no extra charge (unless I wanted him to bury the cable, which I did myself).
 
Thank You, so if I install the pole myself should I let them know they need anything else when they arrive? Will they need to bring any other hardware?

If you do a fence post, you should core it. Fill it up with concrete (INSIDE the pole). If you don't it is possible wind may cause the thin wall fence post to crush and twist.

Those fence posts are really flimsy when they have a big parachute attached.
 
We were renting a house for a year while we were building a new house. The owner of the rental wouldn't allow a dish on the house, so I called DirecTV customer service and had them put "pole mount" in the installation notes. The installer came out with the pole and cemented it in the ground. I didn't have to do anything and there was no extra charge (unless I wanted him to bury the cable, which I did myself).

you're the exception and not the norm. if there is clear los from house you will be subject to custom labor charge to have tech install pole.
 
If you do a fence post, you should core it. Fill it up with concrete (INSIDE the pole). If you don't it is possible wind may cause the thin wall fence post to crush and twist.

Those fence posts are really flimsy when they have a big parachute attached.

Okay I will definately do that. Thank you for all the advice. I am glad I came across this site, you are all very helpful.
 
you're the exception and not the norm. if there is clear los from house you will be subject to custom labor charge to have tech install pole.

Or it might be because it was a rental and we were not allowed to have it on the house. I know I specifically told the CSR that when I called. We also had a form from DirecTV that the owner had to fill out and sign saying that we were allowed to have a dish installed and what type of installation was allowed.
 
If you do a fence post, you should core it. Fill it up with concrete (INSIDE the pole). If you don't it is possible wind may cause the thin wall fence post to crush and twist.

Those fence posts are really flimsy when they have a big parachute attached.

Not exactly all true.I had the 5LNBF Slim installed last week and the installer used a pole mount. He didn't use concrete but did one interesting thing. Before install the ploe he used a 10-15lb sledge hammer to flatten about 1ft of the pole before driving it into the groungd. This keeps the pole from twisting.
 
Not exactly all true.I had the 5LNBF Slim installed last week and the installer used a pole mount. He didn't use concrete but did one interesting thing. Before install the ploe he used a 10-15lb sledge hammer to flatten about 1ft of the pole before driving it into the groungd. This keeps the pole from twisting.

If he didn't use concrete, that pole is going to tip over one day...mark my words. Some installers like to flatten the pole, but I prefer to drill a hole all the way through and insert a 3" lag bolt into the hole. I then make sure that the lag bolt is below the level of the concrete, and core it like chad suggested. Rock solid and never moves. I do drive the pole about two inches into the dirt before I pour concrete to help keep the pole plumb while pouring cement.
 
Or it might be because it was a rental and we were not allowed to have it on the house. I know I specifically told the CSR that when I called. We also had a form from DirecTV that the owner had to fill out and sign saying that we were allowed to have a dish installed and what type of installation was allowed.

doesn't mean a thing. You were an exception. Probably was easier to put it on a pole.
 
If he didn't use concrete, that pole is going to tip over one day...mark my words. Some installers like to flatten the pole, but I prefer to drill a hole all the way through and insert a 3" lag bolt into the hole. I then make sure that the lag bolt is below the level of the concrete, and core it like chad suggested. Rock solid and never moves. I do drive the pole about two inches into the dirt before I pour concrete to help keep the pole plumb while pouring cement.

This is exactly what I was about to post, place a bolt thru the bottom of the pole before the cement and you won't have to worry about it.
If you buy a post , buy a schedule 40 Galvinize post from a fence company and you won't have to do the filling with concrete thing.

I placed a 16' pole and it's solid, I buried it 2.5 ft and concreted it, it's also supported at the roof line.

Jimbo
 
If he didn't use concrete, that pole is going to tip over one day...mark my words. Some installers like to flatten the pole, but I prefer to drill a hole all the way through and insert a 3" lag bolt into the hole. I then make sure that the lag bolt is below the level of the concrete, and core it like chad suggested. Rock solid and never moves. I do drive the pole about two inches into the dirt before I pour concrete to help keep the pole plumb while pouring cement.


Should I core the entire pole all the way to the top? Or should I leave some room at the top?
 
My drill bits wouldn't penetrate the pole, so I went out and got 2 2" muffler clamps and secured them to the bottom of the pole before I cemented. Keeps the pole from twisting.
 
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