Where does the Hopper go...Hanging tv on wall

ashutto20

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Feb 6, 2008
1,255
85
United States
If this is the wrong spot sorry...it involves my Hopper

When I hang my flat screen on the wall...what is the best way to get the wires from the Hopper hooked up to the tv w/ out being noticed...do they make hdmi cables that long???

I have seen it any other peoples houses where there are no wires and I was wondering the tricks and the trades to be able to do this

Want to be able to hook up my Hopper to the tv...house is still being built so I am not sure the distance from the tv and where I would put the Hopper...just looking for suggestions

Thanks in advance
 
Yes they make HMDI cables that long make them up to 100 feet i belive. I've also seen some wall mount's have room to place a box behind tv. Sense your building the house maybe decide where your going to place the tv and maybe build a shelf into the wall for the Hopper and Dvd Player with a power outlet in the shelf . Then place the wall That way you would not see any wires etc.
 
If you are going to place a long HDMI cable in the wall, place 2 or 3. Sometimes cables can be defective or get that way. You need redundancy in this case.
 
I have used a 75 foot HDMI cable with no troubles.

I also did a 90 foot run via HDMI to Cat5 convertors (15 bucks at monoprice). I did it with shielded Cat6 for the cable. It was non problematic as well. There are no visible wires in front of my TV. I ran a power receptacle and everything up to it's location.

Most HDMI cables are not rated for in wall installation. It won't hurt anything, but if you ever have a fire, insurance will use that against you. The Cat 6 I purchased was rated for in wall. It takes two cables to duplicate the HDMI signal.

Here is the new model of what I had... http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10105&cs_id=1011012&p_id=8121&seq=1&format=2

Just remember, if you go that route. Use shielded Cat6... Not Cat5e. You need the shield for interference from lights, electrical, etc...
 
Fishing cables behind sheetrock on interior walls is relatively easy after construction is complete. Exterior walls are usually filled with insulation making fishing difficult, so I'd recommend running conduit before sheetrock is attached. Anything that's run in the walls needs to be CL2 rated and there are HDMI cables that carry that rating. HDMI over CAT6 is another option. Make sure you use a cable that is rated for performance at the necessary length. Blue Jeans Cable has a decent discussion on cables.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

If you are planning a surround system for audio, you will need a center speaker co-located with the TV. This creates additional challenges when wall-mounting the TV as the speaker will be much deeper than the TV. Sound bars reduce depth at the expense of fidelity. If you have the option during construction, you can build a recess for the center speaker (and other equipment) so everything can be nearly flush with the wall. Otherwise the speaker will stick out in front of the TV. Another option would be to use in-wall speakers.

Consider where you will be locating other equipment: Satellite receiver, Blu-Ray player, A/V receiver, home theater PC, game box, etc. and how you will interconnect everything. Routing HDMI through the A/V receiver reduces the cabling to the TV to a single cable and simplifies source selection. My equipment is actually on the wall opposite the TV with a 35' HDMI cable run under the floor and works quite well. This scenario was an evolution from a time when I had much more equipment. I would locate equipment under the TV if starting from scratch.

I considered a wall mount for the TV but realized that the optimum height for the TV (center of the screen at eye height when seated) meant about 2' between the TV and the floor. I opted to mount the TV to a low console rather than the wall. The center speaker also sits on this console. The console and center speaker hides all wiring. Being able to move the console away from the wall makes access to cables much easier.

If you are in the construction phase, planning a built-in shelf system for all your A/V components in the same wall as the TV makes it easier to route cables out of sight and have all equipment flush with the wall. Just remember to allow sufficient ventilation for all the equipment. Also design the shelf system so it's easy to get to the back of equipment.

If the TV in question is not the primary or you aren't planning an elaborate system with surround sound and other components, consider wall mounting a Joey behind the TV. I suppose you could also do this with a Hopper also but you'd need to design a custom mount. Some have had good results running a Joey via Wi-Fi from an internet-connected Hopper. This arrangement apparently works but isn't supported by Dish. Even if you need to run coax it's lots less expensive than a long HDMI cable.
 
Since you are building, you may consider hiring an electronics contractor. You can tell them what you want, and they can put in the wiring you need. It can be done at the stud stage, not after the fact.
 
Thanks for the help guys...we added an outlet and cable and found out we can add an hdmi cable where the tv is being mounted as well...it will run to a walk in closet where the hopper will go which is about 5 feet from where the remote will be used

Thanks again for everyone helping and please keep posting ideas as I am open to new ones...

If need be, I will just hook up the my ps3 to the tv when need be as I dont want to have to much going on
 
Cditty:

Shielding is not the difference between Cat 5e and Cat6. Shielding is the difference between STP (Shielded Twisted Pair) and UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair).

The difference between any of the Category cablings is (among several factors) is the twists which ultimately reject noise. Less noise generally means higher supported frequencies/bandwidth.
In my municipality, there are no shielding requirements for inwall category cabling.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2.x
 
Ashutto,

I would still strongly consider the Cat6 inwall. Whoever is doing the work will probably be much more familiar with this cabling than HDMI.

While you are at it run extra for the future. The marginal cost is much lower than adding it down the road.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2.x
 
Ashutto,

I would still strongly consider the Cat6 inwall. Whoever is doing the work will probably be much more familiar with this cabling than HDMI.

While you are at it run extra for the future. The marginal cost is much lower than adding it down the road.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2.x
I suggest running both cat6 and HDMI. Use HDMI for video/audio, as ethernet-to-HDMI converters can have a negative affect on picture quality, as well as simply dying after a while. (I have plenty of personal experience seeing both.) And, save the cat6 for current/future LAN use, or as a backup to the HDMI, if it ever fails.
 
I have my dish receiver in another room (I share a receiver between 2 TVs).

I use 2 cat6s for the HDMI and 1 cat6 for IR remote return. It was just too far away for the UHF remote to work. I have not had issue with my HDMI to cat6 converter, the run is about 75'.
 
I have a 50 ft hdmi cable right now and the only problem was if I went to a HDMI switch, it would glitch. Going right to the TV was fine. Placing a HDMI amplifier on the line eliminated the problme through the switch. I switch between a PC HDMI and Hopper HDMI with the switch.
 
I suggest running both cat6 and HDMI. Use HDMI for video/audio, as ethernet-to-HDMI converters can have a negative affect on picture quality, as well as simply dying after a while. (I have plenty of personal experience seeing both.) And, save the cat6 for current/future LAN use, or as a backup to the HDMI, if it ever fails.
I originally had a CT5 HDMI extender on the system because I used them at work and they never failed. Mine on a Joey failed after 3 days and I replaced it with a 50 foot HDMI cable.
 
Gary:

My results are different from yours. I've had issues with long runs on HDMI, but great luck with Cat 5e and 6 converters.



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2.x
 
I highly recommend a smurf tube, if you are having the other cables run, it can be a valuable backup should any cables go south.
 
I originally had a CT5 HDMI extender on the system because I used them at work and they never failed. Mine on a Joey failed after 3 days and I replaced it with a 50 foot HDMI cable.
Yup. I use tons of them at work, and have seen many failures over time.

Gary:
My results are different from yours. I've had issues with long runs on HDMI, but great luck with Cat 5e and 6 converters.
He's doesn't require a long run. He'll be fine.
 
I highly recommend a smurf tube, if you are having the other cables run, it can be a valuable backup should any cables go south.

Having an accessible conduit is always best. Who knows how long HDMI will be the standard. In a few years there may be some new wiz bang cable you need.
 

Problems with 922 network connection...

Dish - regular program pricing

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Total: 0, Members: 0, Guests: 0)

Who Read This Thread (Total Members: 1)