What is a good positioner for a C-band dish?

[Dee_Ann]

Speaking of C-band stuff, what would be the best actuator to buy for a 10 foot mesh dish?

I already have an ASC-1 from a few years ago. After I get the new siding put on my house I plan to put my dish up.
I still have 4-6 weeks to wait for them so I figure I should start shopping for one because I really want to put
my big dish up especially now that Luken has left ku. I really miss having C-band.
I really wish they would put up a channel on Roku, I would PAY them for that.

 

[KE4EST]

http://www.venturemfgco.com/maxi-ball-screw-actuator/

 

[The Rage]

Heh, I am using an old Toshiba TRX-1800 to move my BUD. I've figured out a few of the old positions (do NOT have a fully functional remote so to reprogram from scratch) BUT couldn't find a legible "conversion chart" from old to new sat names. For example, Satcom F3...

I could go one-by-one and try trial and error BUT a chart would be SOOOO much easier!. THANKS!!

 

[The Rage]

Speaking of C-band stuff, what would be the best actuator to buy for a 10 foot mesh dish?

I already have an ASC-1 from a few years ago. After I get the new siding put on my house I plan to put my dish up.
I still have 4-6 weeks to wait for them so I figure I should start shopping for one because I really want to put
my big dish up especially now that Luken has left ku. I really miss having C-band.
I really wish they would put up a channel on Roku, I would PAY them for that.

Luken looks great on C-band. Interesting that Ebru returned to G19ku after trying to go 100 per cent stream only...

 

[phlatwound]

Heh, I am using an old Toshiba TRX-1800 to move my BUD. I've figured out a few of the old positions (do NOT have a fully functional remote so to reprogram from scratch) BUT couldn't find a legible "conversion chart" from old to new sat names. For example, Satcom F3...

I could go one-by-one and try trial and error BUT a chart would be SOOOO much easier!. THANKS!!

I still use a Toshiba TRX-1820 to move one old BUD, not sure what designations you have in yours but this is what I have in mine and may help you some...

W2 = 85W
W3 = 87W
T4 = 89W
G7 = 91W
T6 = 93W
G3 = 95W
T5 = 97W
G4 = 99W
W4 = 101W
T1 = 105W
E2 = 107.3W
E1 = 111.1
G2 = 121W
G0 = 123W
G5 = 125W
G9 = 127W
T7 = 129W
F3 = 131W
G1 = 133W
F4 = 135W
F1 = 137W

 

[Hockeynut]

Speaking of C-band stuff, what would be the best actuator to buy for a 10 foot mesh dish?

I already have an ASC-1 from a few years ago. After I get the new siding put on my house I plan to put my dish up.
I still have 4-6 weeks to wait for them so I figure I should start shopping for one because I really want to put
my big dish up especially now that Luken has left ku. I really miss having C-band.
I really wish they would put up a channel on Roku, I would PAY them for that.

I would go with Venture...Still made right here in America..Ohio..Love to support American workers!!..Have 3 Ventures on 3 of the 4 BUDs here..1 being a Ballscrew...Very nice.

 

[migold]

ORBIT-Old Satellite ARC.pdf
Here is a copy from an old issue of ORBIT magazine, which shows the Satellite ARC with the old names. Sometimes these "Old Things" come in handy..

 

[The Rage]

ORBIT-Old Satellite ARC.pdf
Here is a copy from an old issue of ORBIT magazine, which shows the Satellite ARC with the old names. Sometimes these "Old Things" come in handy..

HUGE HELP!. THANKS!. Until the other day, my positions were just 2 degrees off. Now however, something "slipped" and G5 on the receiver is NOW at 99W. I got the Ventura back to G6/G16 and left it alone).
Can't get the DSR 922 OR the old Echostar 400 to move anything. Pulse errors. Figure the Toshiba TRX-1800 might be a wee bit more sensitive to a weak/intermittent signal. Second BUD is going to be a heckuva LOT closer to the ground, me not worrying about much past G5/125w with it. In the mean time, going to rewire the actuator sensors to see if that helps replacing that entire length.

 

[The Rage]

I still use a Toshiba TRX-1820 to move one old BUD, not sure what designations you have in yours but this is what I have in mine and may help you some...

W2 = 85W
W3 = 87W
T4 = 89W
G7 = 91W
T6 = 93W
G3 = 95W
T5 = 97W
G4 = 99W
W4 = 101W
T1 = 105W
E2 = 107.3W
E1 = 111.1
G2 = 121W
G0 = 123W
G5 = 125W
G9 = 127W
T7 = 129W
F3 = 131W
G1 = 133W
F4 = 135W
F1 = 137W

THANKS for the printout!. I can't get past the password to get into Option 4 in the menu with my IR universal remote and my "UHF" remote is DOA...Got any master reset/hidden menu/reset hole ideas on how to do a master reset on the old TRX-1800?

 

[phlatwound]

Will look for my TRX1820 manual and see if there is any info on that. Not sure if it would apply to an 1800 though.

I was able to find a used remote for mine on eBay a few years ago when my original shot craps.

 

[The Rage]

Thanks for all the effort to retrieve the manual. I have been reduced to trying to reset my positions BUT moving the dish "s-l-o-w-i-l-y:" with a small 12 volt battery using the receiver and a meter to find 99/101w. Still need to get in and reset the Toshiba pw to get to option 4. Juist can't get there with the univeral remote. AND the 922 still won't reset past 4999 and 5001...Just not picking up the pulse reed switch on the Venture.

There's something wrong with the old Echostar 400...NO voltage from the motor power terminals SO that explains alot.