Weekend Project - Pole for the dish!

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Shawn95GT

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Feb 9, 2005
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Ok - I asked before if a 2" pole would work for a SG2100.... how about 2 3/8"? My eyball measure (looking at pics) says it should but I figured I should ask.

The options were 2 3/8", 1 7/8", or 1 5/8".

If it'll work I'm going to get this thing cemented in the ground this weekend.

The 2 3/8" pole and an 80# bag of pre-mix is ready to go in the garage :cool: .
 
I used to add stone and sand to the cement mixture. My Dad always told me 3 parts cement, 2 parts sand and 1 part stone. Is this really needed or would pre-mix be just as good for securing a satellite pole? I read that you should judge 1 bag for each foot of your dish. So, if you are installing an 8' satellite dish you should use 8 bags of cement.
 
Premix is just as good. Many installers use standard or a quick-set type and simply pour into the hole and dump a little hot water over the top before adding the next bag. No need to mix in a barrel. If you set the post first, you can often set the dish after completing the remainder of teh installation

Remember to either flatten a side of the post or drill and place a bolt through the post in the cement area to prevent it from spinning.
 
Well - it's in the ground!

1 80# bag didn't go near as far as I thought it would. I think I'm going to pick up another bag to fill the pole and fill in my hole some more. I think the single bag would be sufficient support wise.

Lesson's learned:

5 gallon bucket makes a lousy cement mixer. Filled it half way with premix, added some water and on the 1st stir the bucket exploded.

Next time... little bix of pre-mix in the hole, little bit of water, repeat.

The cement sets up pretty quick!

That 2 3/8" pole happens to be the exact same size as the P* pole. As an added bonus if I ever want to use the P* as a fixed dish the original mount will easily slide right on!

Pics:
 
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Hi, all:

Just a stupid question comes out:

what do you do if, next day after the cement is very hard, you found out that your pole is not that vertical for some reason, like wind, or each side of cement not even? Any way to fix it?
 
air88 said:
Hi, all:

Just a stupid question comes out:

what do you do if, next day after the cement is very hard, you found out that your pole is not that vertical for some reason, like wind, or each side of cement not even? Any way to fix it?
Kick it, bend it, dig it up. I've been going crazy running out and checking that it is still straight up and down. If it is off come tomorrow then I'll have to figure a way to get it true.
 
I ALWAYS brace mine using 2X4's like you do a tree until the cement is fully hardened. I then mount the dish 24 hours later.

Shawn, did you use #3 rebar at the bottom of the pole to prevent spinning? I always create an "X" about a foot from the bottom of the pole.
 
PopcornNMore said:
I ALWAYS brace mine using 2X4's like you do a tree until the cement is fully hardened. I then mount the dish 24 hours later.

Shawn, did you use #3 rebar at the bottom of the pole to prevent spinning? I always create an "X" about a foot from the bottom of the pole.
No - not quite that elaborite. I drilled holes and have bolts coming out of the pole frankenstien style.

Rebar would have been cheaper if I was buying the stuff but I was using what I had at the house. I should have picked up a piece when I bought the pole / cement! I could still do it...
 
air88 said:
Hi, all:

Just a stupid question comes out:

what do you do if, next day after the cement is very hard, you found out that your pole is not that vertical for some reason, like wind, or each side of cement not even? Any way to fix it?


Having done nearly a hundred poles, I now never have this problem.

No need for special quick hardening concrete. Use regular ready mix. Make it ultra dry with just enough water for it to be all wet or dark. Keep a 3 foot length and a slege hammer handy. Just pack it down around the pole with the sledge the end of a 2x4 as you put in 4-5 inches at a time. This will pack the concrete ultra tight and hard. Keep checking the plumb as you do this. It will harden quickly and makes a dense set up within an hour.

To keep the pole from turning, I use a cheap $1 muffler clamp. No flopping bolts or rebars. It provides enough room for me to pack the concrete with the 2x4.

If the pole needs realignment, dig a post hole on the side away from the tilt down to the bottom. Reposition the pole to plumb. Use very dry mix concrete and tamp down with a 2x4. This is another reason to have used the muffler clamp. If you used rebars or long bolts, you may hit it with the post hole digger. The muffler clamp provides just enough to keep the pole from turning.
 
Just when I thought this was getting easy! Checkout the attached zipped video. My compass spins when near the pole - lol.
 
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