Vbox7+QARL 3624 actuator+2.4 mts dish need advice

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Vallenato

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
May 25, 2011
222
10
America
Hello Every One
Its time to Motorize my Hybrid Dish antenna 2.4 mts (8'). and confirm if my project was Excellent;)
[URL]http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/299468-Could-Match-sadoun-SP240-Polar-mount-to-my-stationary-Dish-8-WS-International
[/URL]
I have VBox7 Positioner+QARL 3624 +24" Heavy Duty Monster Motor Actuator for this purpose.
My Current "Clear" satellites are from 50.0W to around 95.0W ( I am not sure about 97.0W and over satellites because some trees are blocking). My dish still Mounted on the ground with 39" height of Pole mount..I would like to start with "Clear" satellites first. C band is my Objective. My Longuitude is 96.79 so probably my Highest satellite could be 97.0W but I am not sure about the trees blocking..
Right Now my antenna is aiming to 58.0W with good signal

I am trying to drive my actuator (manually) through the Vbox positioner. Not through receiver
Questions:
1) what is the first steps?.. (Tips,advices, suggestions or links to tutorials):D
2) what satellite you recommend to me to start aiming
3)What side you suggest That I need to install my actuator? (viewing behind to the dish west(right) -east(left) side)
4) what gauge of wires you suggest to me to wire my actuator (motor& switch).. Can i to use Speaker wire 16w or 14w gauge?..The Gauge of the wire depends the long distance between Actuator and Vbox Positioner.. I think so probably I have around 40' - 50 ' of distance
More questions later;)

Thanks In advance
 
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Hello Every One
Its time to Motorize my Hybrid Dish antenna 2.4 mts (8'). and confirm if my project was Excellent;)
http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads...ount-to-my-stationary-Dish-8-WS-International
I have VBox7 Positioner+QARL 3624 +24" Heavy Duty Monster Motor Actuator for this purpose.
My Current "Clear" satellites are from 50.0W to around 95.0W ( I am not sure about 97.0W and over satellites because some trees are blocking). My dish still Mounted on the ground with 39" height of Pole mount..I would like to start with "Clear" satellites first. C band is my Objective. My Longuitude is 96.79 so probably my Highest satellite could be 97.0W but I am not sure about the trees blocking..
Right Now my antenna is aiming to 58.0W with good signal

I am trying to drive my actuator (manually) through the Vbox positioner. Not through receiver
Questions:
1) what is the first steps?.. (Tips,advices, suggestions or links to tutorials):D
2) what satellite you recommend to me to start aiming
3)What side you suggest That I need to install my actuator? (viewing behind to the dish west(right) -east(left) side)
4) what gauge of wires you suggest to me to wire my actuator (motor& switch).. Can i to use Speaker wire 16w or 14w gauge?..The Gauge of the wire depends the long distance between Actuator and Vbox Positioner.. I think so probably I have around 40' - 50 ' of distance
More questions later;)

Thanks In advance

Can't answer all of these but I'll take a stab at a couple.

That 24" actuator will take you way further than you're satellite view will allow. I had one of those on that SAMI dish I gave away and that one was seeing 37W back to 139 travel wise. Of course your mounting points on the dish will determine just how far it will go but you got way more than you need. IMHO I don't think it would matter which side you mount it on as limited as your satellite view is as you've got less than 40 degrees of travel there. I do think that "most" would have it setup with the mover mounted to the left or East side for your area but that would depend on what your satellite view is. I'm at 79* and mine is on the right side, which is West and I can get all the way down to 139W. If my actuator was mounted on the other side, I probably wouldn't be able to get any further than 113W.

If 97W is "iffie" for you, then you need to move to the next closest one you can see, which would be 95W. There's a really hot TP on that one 4000 H 30000 that I'm currently getting an 82% Q reading on so that one would be the one I'd try to zero in on first. Once/if you find that one, then I'd try to get to 97 to see if you can actually see that one. 97W has a hot one also, 4119 V 30000 and I'm getting 85% Q on that one. Once you get either or both of them in then move on East to each one setting them up as you go. Moving East you're likely to have to rotate the dish mount on the post to get it peaked and, IF, you're elevation and declination are correct they should come in. If not, then you might have to tweak the elevation a bit.

Hint, make sure you WRITE DOWN EACH CHANGE YOU MAKE AND NOTE HOW IT AFFECTS YOUR Q% READINGS! ALWAYS USE THE SAME TPs TO RETEST WITH TOO, IE, 4000 FOR 95, 4119 FOR 97 ETC. It's awfully easy to get lost doing this unless you take notes.

On the wire, most I've seen on here use outdoor sprinkler wire. Me, I just bought some 16/4 speaker wire and used that instead. It was cheap enough and I got a 100ft roll and can do it again if/when the wire jacket comes apart. But for the motor and that length of run 16ga is fine and the sensor will work with that also.

I'm sure others will chime in with more suggestions.
 
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I think the best advice I ever received was to read and reread these web pages:


http://www.geo-orbit.org/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886

I have gone back to these pages over and over again. They are very helpful.

It answers all of your questions. And the installation of the actuator depends on which side of the Mississippi River you are on. And remember just because you have trees blocking some parts of the satellite belt, does not mean you should install it any way but correctly... You may find BLOOMBERG tv over there to the West at 135W when you didnt expect it!

Enjoy!



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Keep in mind that an Actuator Arm is not a Horizon-To-Horizon mount.
I am at 88 west, and can Push my BUD East to about 40west, any more than that, and the arm won't be able to pull it back up.
You also need to see if the Arm will bind on the mount when pushing the Dish.
 
I am at 119W Longitude. My 7.5 ft mesh C band with a 24" actuator will go from 58W to 137W. I'm hoping my new 10ft mesh with 36" actuator will cover it all too; and more!
 
I'm hoping my new 10ft mesh with 36" actuator will cover it all too; and more!

That 36" is probably going to be way more than you need for the distance you're covering. Both my 10ft systems have 24" movers and are nowhere near the end of travel and I'm looking at 37w back to 139w on both systems and that Unimesh will actually get to 34w with some to spare but I don't have that bird programmed in.

What limits my travel is the physical limit of the polar mounts in relation to the linear actuators. I took a couple of pics to show what I mean as right now both are almost at a point of contact with the inner tube of the actuator and the upper dish mount pivot. I could probably make some 1 or 2 inch spacers to lift the actuator up to clear these obstructions but I can't receive anything past 37w because of trees that I don't want to cut down. Keep in mind that I'm at 79* due south and my actuator is mounted on the West side. The Unimesh is the pic on the left and the Winegard is the one on the right.

Oh, and that 7.5ft SAMI dish I gave away a few months back would cover 37w back to 139w also with a 24" Super Jack actuator.


dishlimitu.jpgdishlimitw.jpg
 
That 36" is probably going to be way more than you need for the distance you're covering. Both my 10ft systems have 24" movers and are nowhere near the end of travel and I'm looking at 37w back to 139w on both systems and that Unimesh will actually get to 34w with some to spare but I don't have that bird programmed in.

What limits my travel is the physical limit of the polar mounts in relation to the linear actuators. I took a couple of pics to show what I mean as right now both are almost at a point of contact with the inner tube of the actuator and the upper dish mount pivot. I could probably make some 1 or 2 inch spacers to lift the actuator up to clear these obstructions but I can't receive anything past 37w because of trees that I don't want to cut down. Keep in mind that I'm at 79* due south and my actuator is mounted on the West side. The Unimesh is the pic on the left and the Winegard is the one on the right.

Oh, and that 7.5ft SAMI dish I gave away a few months back would cover 37w back to 139w also with a 24" Super Jack actuator.


View attachment 92184View attachment 92185

Side note... I "assumed" it was a 36" because it was so big compared to my other actuators, but after measuring it today, it is a 24" Von Weise.


Posted Via The SatelliteGuys Reader App!
 
I have returned to play with my "toys" to look something else:D
I have installed the actuator on the east side. last weekend I have tested my Vbox with the actuator and moves well.
Reading the information I know that the first step is to Aim at my Highest satellite that is 97.0W due my location is at 96.67...and set my elevation or motor latitude & my declination. Right now my dish is still aiming to 58.0 w and last wekend I have tried to 45.0 W & 50.0W manually (with my actuator retracted or closed ) and i got some signals on some Tp's. so according with my installation "blocks" and view horizont I wish that 45.0W satellite could be my low satellite with my actuator retracted (closed)
My first step is to get all satellites posible between 45.0W to 97.0W
Question: If I want to try to get My highest satellite "97.0W" I need to find it with my actuator retracted (closed)? or Open "push out"?
I have attached some pictures that you can evaluate my current installation any suggestions are welcome;)
picture: 012,013 (actuator), 019(elevation setting), 025,026 (declination setting),030 bubble tool (mast plumb), 032,034 inclinometer in the pole (mast plumb)
 

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With the dish set as in picture 1. Check and adjust declination. That's the difference of the angles measured in pic 1 and pic 3.
With dish still set as in pic 1, Set angle in pic 3 to your Latitude. (elevation)
Rotate mount on pole to find 97W (don't use the actuator)
Adjust angle in pic 3 and rotation of mount on pole to maximize Q.
Lock down the elevation adjuster. DONE
Then look to other satellites with the actuator.
Adjust actuator and twist of mount on pole to peak.
When at furthest E or W satellite, and Q is 'maxed out' Tighten up mount on pole.
Go find all satellites and program the VBox.
 
Rotate mount on pole to find 97W (don't use the actuator)
Then look to other satellites with the actuator.
.
This is my big question right now:confused:
If I will find 97.0W and Not using the actuator (supposed to be the actuator is "closed" or contracted). How I will find the Opposite satellites (east side, under 97.0W) if my actuator is contracted. If i extend my actuator only is running through 97.0W to Up.
Probably is a silly question but I am questioning this:o
 
The actuator is neither fully extended or retracted when setting up your southernmost satellite.
We will set up the actuator later, after the dish tracks the arc.
actuator on east side- set up. Retract the actuator fully, extend it just a little. Slide the actuator fore-aft in the clamp on the mount so the dish is just past your desired furthest east satellite. See if it will extend to your furthest west satellite. A compromise will have to be made if it doesn't. (or a longer actuator??)
Just past your furthest west satellite, set the limit switch in the actuator so as to not 'over extend'.
 
#1 rule :: the mount points due true south
#2 rule :: align the dish starting at due true south
#3 rule :: Set the elevation and decl. for your latitude when mount and dish are aligned at due true south
#4 rule :: The actuator should be all the way screwed in (like new out of box) at the lowest sat in the sky which you adjust with the clamp. This way you get the most out of the arm
These are rules you do not have to follow; but if you do not; you will take a day to forever (hourly waged?) to figure out that that is where the whole thing must be locked to anyways. If the closest to south satellite does get blocked after this, then move to the closest one you can get using the actuator and vbox; and tweek it from there (small adjustments to get imperfections out of the entire assembly)!
 
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Update:
Hello Guys. Thank you for your responses and support;)
I have tried to get my South satellite 97.0 W but still with not lucky..:o
I have tried to 91.0W & 99.0W and nothing. Appears that I am missing on the Horizont.lol
I have used this active Tp’s on my coolsat 4000 on 97.0w
3839 V/ 2940
3843 V/ 2894
3922 V/ 3703
3851 V/ 9983
I have put all my parameters on my antenna, according of my location:
Latitude: 32.82.
According the declination table this is my Declination: 5.4
Motor latitude or Elevation (32.82) + Declination angle (5.4) + 90 + Elevation (51.8.) [97.0W dishpointer]=180
I have attached pictures measuring My parameters. You can see the value of the inclinometer tool for Elevation . And also You can see my magnetic compass aiming to North to South my antenna is aiming to South..
Questions??:I am not sure If the values taken for me from my inclinometer are correct.
I am taken since 90 to 63 = 33.. Is correct?? :confused:See pictures.

This sounds Crazy!!! but I have returned to my origin point (58.0W) and tried to 45.W and got itJ..So Right Now I can get with this antenna (On stationary, One a time) 58.0W, 50.0W, 45.0W “Atlantic Satellites”and I am not seeing problems to reach 43.1W.(all these satellites are already marked on my Pipe mount) Crazy!!:eek: because If you see mi pictures you can see that My Home and the Roof is close to the antenna aprox about 15-18 feet..Is Supposed that North America satellites should be more “strong in signal”.
I don’t know but Could be possible to start to find the arc starting with my current hunted satellites??:confused:
 

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attachment.php
set to 57,elevation (33)
attachment.php
set to 52 ,declination (33 + 5)
I found these with my Coolsat 5000,
3851V 3532 sr Walk TV has pic and sound
3922V 3703 sr NoAmerica no pic or sound,but strong tp
4141H 32363 sr scramble channel
4060H 32363 sr appears to be an HD channel,just green "plaid"
 
I was going by the way you had the inclinometer in your pics,so 90-33=57,90-(33+5)=52.
If you can turn the inclinometer so 0 is up then it would be 33 and 38,I think,now I've got me going in circles :D.
 
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