Upgrading from Dish 1000 to Hopper 3 and Joey

[W6k]

I have a Dish 1000 with a 722 that works fine. I am upgrading to the Hopper 3. I have just one main TV and a small one in the kitchen. I have no plans to expand on that. I purchased a Hopper 3 and a Joey. My reading suggested I needed a solo node switch, so I have that connected as per a diagram I found online. The hopper does not recognize the solo node switch so I am out of luck. What do I need to make this transition work?

 

[brad1138]

Solo node works for Hopper 1 & 2, not 3. You need a Dish 1000.2 & Hybrid LNB, you need a hub if you are going to add wired Joeys. You will need a Western or Eastern Arc LNB, depending on where you live.

 

[Bobby]

The Hopper 3 does not work with a solo node. You need a solo hybrid hub. That is the first thing. Next you say you have a 1000 dish. What lnb do you have on that dish. If it is not a hybrid lnb you will require a 42 switch as well.

 

[W6k]

Thanks to all for the info and I understand now the hardware requirements. I elected to solve the issue with a new 1000.2 and hybrid LNBs. The reflector is larger than my 1000 which should improve pointing, but isnt. I elected to use my exisitng 722 to reestablish satellite aquisition before moving to the Hopper 3. I can locate 110 and 119, but not at the same time. I covered the 110 LNB with foil and located 119 with the middle LNB. The signal is 63, somewhat better than my old DPP LNB. Uncovering the 110 LNB produces nothing. Moving the dish to the east towards 110 even slightly, drops out 119. I played with the elevation and the best signal spot is 2 degrees higher than listed, but exactly where my DPP antenna was set. The skew is set and the azimuth using my iphone app compass is spot on.

What more can I do to acquire both sats simultaneously?

 

[RTCDude]

Since you are in Fresno, I assume you have a three horn Western Arc LNB. I suspect you are covering the wrong horn and picking 119 through the wrong horn.

Make sure you mast is perfectly vertical. Use “Torpedo“ bubble level to check. It will have a magnetic edge on it that will hold it to the mast while checking two 90 degree angles. This kind of level is easily available from Home Depot, Lowes, or any hardware store, for just a few bucks.

Cover both outside horns with foil.This covers the 110 and the now defunct 129 horn, but leaves the middle horn (119) uncovered for reception. This keeps you from picking up 119 from the wrong horn.

Set the elevation, azimuth, and shew to the recommended values for your zip code.

Peak the alignment for the best 119 strength. Again, this will makes sure you have 119 coming in from the correct horn.

Lock down the elevation and azimuth. Recheck the 119 signal strength. Readjust as needed after lockdown (tightening the bolts can move the dish slightly).

Now uncover the two outside horns. If the skew is set correctly, 110 will like come right in. If not, adjust the skew slightly until you hit 110 and adjust for max strength. DO NOT adjust the elevation and azimuth. It should NOT be needed.

If you think you have to adjust the elevation or azimuth, then you likely have the wrong elevation/azimuth values in the first place or your mast isn’t perfectly plum.

Which horn is for 110 and the defunct 129 is counterintuitive. Looking from the rear of the satellite dish, 110 is on the right, and 129 is on the left. This is because of how the satellite signals reflect off the dish.

With practice, this process will let you align a dish in just a few minutes.

Good luck.

 

[HipKat]

Thanks to all for the info and I understand now the hardware requirements. I elected to solve the issue with a new 1000.2 and hybrid LNBs. The reflector is larger than my 1000 which should improve pointing, but isnt. I elected to use my exisitng 722 to reestablish satellite aquisition before moving to the Hopper 3. I can locate 110 and 119, but not at the same time. I covered the 110 LNB with foil and located 119 with the middle LNB. The signal is 63, somewhat better than my old DPP LNB. Uncovering the 110 LNB produces nothing. Moving the dish to the east towards 110 even slightly, drops out 119. I played with the elevation and the best signal spot is 2 degrees higher than listed, but exactly where my DPP antenna was set. The skew is set and the azimuth using my iphone app compass is spot on.

What more can I do to acquire both sats simultaneously?

What RTCDude said and your angles are
AZ: 165
EL: 46
SK: 90

 

[chiodo]

I upgraded from Dish 1000+ & HWS, to H3 and wireless Joey and 1003. Hybrid lnb, so 1 cable from Dish to H3 and then WJ access point plugged into H3 and away I go, I have a SupperBuddy for positioning the dish.

 

[W6k]

Since you are in Fresno, I assume you have a three horn Western Arc LNB. I suspect you are covering the wrong horn and picking 119 through the wrong horn.

Make sure you mast is perfectly vertical. Use “Torpedo“ bubble level to check. It will have a magnetic edge on it that will hold it to the mast while checking two 90 degree angles. This kind of level is easily available from Home Depot, Lowes, or any hardware store, for just a few bucks.

Cover both outside horns with foil.This covers the 110 and the now defunct 129 horn, but leaves the middle horn (119) uncovered for reception. This keeps you from picking up 119 from the wrong horn.

Set the elevation, azimuth, and shew to the recommended values for your zip code.

Peak the alignment for the best 119 strength. Again, this will makes sure you have 119 coming in from the correct horn.

Lock down the elevation and azimuth. Recheck the 119 signal strength. Readjust as needed after lockdown (tightening the bolts can move the dish slightly).

Now uncover the two outside horns. If the skew is set correctly, 110 will like come right in. If not, adjust the skew slightly until you hit 110 and adjust for max strength. DO NOT adjust the elevation and azimuth. It should NOT be needed.

If you think you have to adjust the elevation or azimuth, then you likely have the wrong elevation/azimuth values in the first place or your mast isn’t perfectly plum.

Which horn is for 110 and the defunct 129 is counterintuitive. Looking from the rear of the satellite dish, 110 is on the right, and 129 is on the left. This is because of how the satellite signals reflect off the dish.

With practice, this process will let you align a dish in just a few minutes.

Good luck.

Initially, all I could get was 110, so I covered both outside LNBs with foil as the middle one I understand is for 119. With the foil covers I was able to get 119, but removing the foil did not produce 110. Any slight movement of the dish removes 119. The 722 displays the pointing angles based on my zipcode as 156, 46 and skew 83. Dish says 165, 46 and 90. The 722 antedates sat 129, so the 722 pointing angles are probably based on the old twin head Dish 500. It may be that my support pole is not vertical anymore. To measure the pole I find it necessary to remove the antenna. I will recheck the plumb of the pole, reset the skew to 90 and try again at 165. I used to have a twin head 500 dish which was smaller in diameter and round and it was fairly easy to point. This oblong larger dish is just not cooperating with me.
If at first you don't suceed, try try again.

 

[HipKat]

Initially, all I could get was 110, so I covered both outside LNBs with foil as the middle one I understand is for 119. With the foil covers I was able to get 119, but removing the foil did not produce 110. Any slight movement of the dish removes 119. The 722 displays the pointing angles based on my zipcode as 156, 46 and skew 83. Dish says 165, 46 and 90. The 722 antedates sat 129, so the 722 pointing angles are probably based on the old twin head Dish 500. It may be that my support pole is not vertical anymore. To measure the pole I find it necessary to remove the antenna. I will recheck the plumb of the pole, reset the skew to 90 and try again at 165. I used to have a twin head 500 dish which was smaller in diameter and round and it was fairly easy to point. This oblong larger dish is just not cooperating with me.
If at first you don't suceed, try try again.

When you’re only single pointing one satellite, the skew is not as important as the elevation. Not knowing what the signal values are in California, we have noticed in the Midwest and I’m sure it’s the same everywhere that the values of the 119 and the 110 are much lower than they had been historically, specifically since removal of the 129.

I can get the 119 into the high 60s or sometimes hitting 70, but the 110 is typically much lower. The reason I bring this up is because if you’re getting a lower signal value, high 50s or low 60, you may be too high and are actually getting the 110, not the 119 which would mean lowering about two notches and then moving further to the right and starting over

 

[W6k]

Finally have both sats in the low 60s. Covering the two outside LNB helped me find 119.
Thanks for all the help