Switch from 2 HWS toHopper 3 ?

bnewt

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Original poster
Oct 6, 2003
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Shepherdsville, Ky
Really excited about the Hopper 3, but trying to figure out how I can accommodate this into my present system.

I now have a HWS in the main tv area with a wireless access for the wireless joey in the kitchen & also has a wifi internet connectoin. This HWS is connected to HD tv via hdmi & is in bridge mode to the bedroom HWS.

The bedroom HWS is connected to a 4K tv via hdmi. The hdmi output is also connected to a wireless transmitter for the upstairs hd tv. The component output of the bedroom HWS is connected to another bedroom tv via cat5 using this Amazon product ASIN B003UT7TJS
Now if I replace the main area HWS with Hopper 3 & change the bedroom HWS to 4K joey, how will I be able to connect the 2nd bedroom tv since there is no component output on the 4K joey?
 
thanks, had forgotten about that type of conversion

Another ? just came to mind.............if I use the 4K joey to feed my 4K tv, & have it set for 4K output, how would that sign feed to a regular hd tiv?
 
I might be wrong but I think that the 4k Joey & H3 only output a 4k signal when you are actually watching a 4k source.

Sent from my iPhone using Chrome.
 
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Most HDMI splitters only report the formats common to both connected TVs to the source device. If the splitter is connected to a 4K and a 1080i/p TV, then it will likely only report 1080i/p back to the Joey and the Joey output will be limited to 1080i/p.

For 4K and 1080 output you may have to put a scaler in the mix, or get a splitter that does scaling.
 
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Wondering if it is just me or if there is a problem with the posts made. I cannot see any images that posters are referencing.

"The bedroom HWS is connected to a 4K tv via hdmi. The hdmi output is also connected to a wireless transmitter for the upstairs hd tv. The component output of the bedroom HWS is connected to another bedroom tv via cat5 using this: <no image shown>"

Can you provide more details on your situation, specifically if you are not wanting to (maybe) incur a slight monthly increase for TV watching. Don't know if it's financial or just like some others that rather have that extra Starbucks or two each month instead of paying more to make TV watching easier, simply on principal! ;)

Now you have:
Hopper w/Sling in the main area.
Wireless Joey in kitchen (must spend a LOT of time in the kitchen!!)
Hopper w/Sling in main bedroom
Duplicate video connection to a 2nd bedroom via component (since Hopper does not have multiple tuner outputs for independent TV viewing on two devices)

Future you want TV in the same rooms. Again, do not know your home layout or needs and not being judgmental, but do you really have to have a TV in the kitchen?

If not then use the H3 as the central Hopper for main viewing area.
Use the new 4K Joey as your replacement for the HwS in the main bedroom.
Use the existing wireless Joey in that second bedroom where you will have independent viewing as a bonus.
...and leave the kitchen for cooking and eating!! :hungry
 
My present set up works perfectly as the wife & I want. She likes to watch the kitchen tv as she cooks & while we eat. The 2nd bedroom that is mirrored from the main bedroom isn't used that much. That is why it is mirrored.

As I understand it now & maybe I am misunderstanding, my problem will be mostly on the mirrored tv.......with the 4K joey set to 4K output & how the signal will be handled by the non 4K tv.
 
Most HDMI splitters only report the formats common to both connected TVs to the source device. If the splitter is connected to a 4K and a 1080i/p TV, then it will likely only report 1080i/p back to the Joey and the Joey output will be limited to 1080i/p.

For 4K and 1080 output you may have to put a scaler in the mix, or get a splitter that does scaling.

Any suggestions?
 
I have had a 4 channel modulator connected to our RG6 antenna system to distribute throughout the house since 1997. Also used the antenna system as an antenna for the remotes. Worked great. Now the two TVs that are the most important have direct HDMI connections. This is where I found out that the component and composite outputs on these boxes are not all that good. AND we frequently get HDCP errors on the "tuned in" TVs because the modulator cannot register as an HDMI/HDCP compliant device, they have them though. But after hooking up an HDMI device the errors go away.
 
As I understand it now & maybe I am misunderstanding, my problem will be mostly on the mirrored tv.......with the 4K joey set to 4K output & how the signal will be handled by the non 4K tv.
In all likely hood it will be negotiated to 4K and not a hard setting. If the splitter des not report back to the STB as "4K capable" then I doubt you will be able to "force" 4K from the STB.
 
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Most HDMI splitters only report the formats common to both connected TVs to the source device. If the splitter is connected to a 4K and a 1080i/p TV, then it will likely only report 1080i/p back to the Joey and the Joey output will be limited to 1080i/p.

For 4K and 1080 output you may have to put a scaler in the mix, or get a splitter that does scaling.

But this should only be when both TVs are on and receiving the signal (not just plugged in). I think bnewt would be safe if like he said, watches the 2nd bedroom TV not that often. Making the assumption that this would not be a situation where both bedrooms are watching at the same time. Just one or the other.

And bnewt I totally understand you want to keep your setup as is. Just having some fun with keeping the kitchen for cooking. For us, we are lucky that the kitchen is wide open to the family room so we can see the main TV anytime.

I've done a number of "creative" cable runs and splits to inexpensively send a video/audio signal to a TV that does not get used much, like in a basement. Became an un-fan of all the trouble in trying to solve that problem with all the headaches and cables and this and that trying to match things up.

Here's another thought. Use the wireless Joey in the kitchen as normal. Probably use it fairly often as compared to that 2nd bedroom. Since it is wireless, you can take it from the kitchen to that second bedroom for the rare times you want to use it. Just buy another power supply so the move is easy, plug in the video cable and you're done. Then move it back to the kitchen when done. Again, making assumptions that wireless reception in that bedroom would be good and that the TV has an HDMI connection.

Trying to help save you the extra Joey monthly fee or spending hundreds of dollars with fancy 4K splitters or whatever you'd need.

...and as others may have mentioned, the 4K Joey is 4K capable. It does not mean that it can only output in 4K or that you have to change from UHD to HD back to UHD.... all the time. It can output regular HD as well as 4K when connected to a 4K device.
 
Any suggestions?
Not really. Don't do any 4K yet and haven't done component in years.

I have probably installed a dozen or so Sewell HDMI splitters at home, family and friends with zero issues, but they don't do scaling (wouldn't expect a $20 device to do so).
 
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But this should only be when both TVs are on and receiving the signal (not just plugged in). I think bnewt would be safe if like he said, watches the 2nd bedroom TV not that often. Making the assumption that this would not be a situation where both bedrooms are watching at the same time. Just one or the other.
The splitters cache the EDID data. I've seen several "off" TVs report back EDID data. The occasional use TV would likely need to be unplugged from power and/or the splitter.

The splitter would likely need a power reset after using the occasional use TV to clear the EDID data.
 
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The splitters cache the EDID data.

Good to know. I think that even passive splitters (no power supply needed) maybe have some electronics built in them that are powered by the 5V line that may cause what you are referencing.

Still say that unless they want to have an additional Joey, that moving the wireless one to that bedroom on occasion is probably the cleanest and easiest option with less headaches, wires, gadgets and messing about. Kinda like they tout as one of the big benefits of a wireless Joey. Even if you had to move the power supply with it if you could not get an additional one from Dish.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/additional-joey-power-supply-adapters.346024/
 
Good to know. I think that even passive splitters (no power supply needed) maybe have some electronics built in them that are powered by the 5V line that may cause what you are referencing.

Still say that unless they want to have an additional Joey, that moving the wireless one to that bedroom on occasion is probably the cleanest and easiest option with less headaches, wires, gadgets and messing about. Kinda like they tout as one of the big benefits of a wireless Joey. Even if you had to move the power supply with it if you could not get an additional one from Dish.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/additional-joey-power-supply-adapters.346024/
Or just the one time cost of an additional Wireless Joey and activate/deactivate at will.

Sort of depends on how the second bedroom is used. Once every month or two when the in-laws visit and it makes since. Two or three times a month and moving/activating the joey becomes a pain.
 
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bnewt Another idea. Why not put the H3 in the bedroom. It has HDMI and component out so you can still split the output like you have now. It's capable of 4K output for your TV there. Then use the 4K Joey in the main area as it will be fine with a regular HD TV, and you still have the wireless Joey in the kitchen. Since the placement of the Hopper is not important it could be in any of the locations where you have the proper connections.
 
My present set up works perfectly as the wife & I want. She likes to watch the kitchen tv as she cooks & while we eat. The 2nd bedroom that is mirrored from the main bedroom isn't used that much. That is why it is mirrored.

My wife wanted TV in the kitchen, I took an old iPad and put t in there with DISH anywhere. Now she has TV. :D (And it works well too)
 

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